Best way to sharpen chains for dirty work

[muddstopper]

While on the subject, does anybody know of a good replacement grinding stone I can put on my grinder. While i dont think I will have to replace my current stone because of these chains, I would like to go to a better stone when they are worn out. I am using the pink stones that came with the grinder and I dont really like the burrs left on the chain after grinding. I endup having to take a flat and round file to each tooth to remove the burrs after sharpening which is very time consuming. I am looking at trying to hook up a reverse rotation switch for the motor, but my brother is the electrician and hes doing hay now so the switch will have to wait

 

[GVS]

While on the subject, does anybody know of a good replacement grinding stone I can put on my grinder. While i dont think I will have to replace my current stone because of these chains, I would like to go to a better stone when they are worn out. I am using the pink stones that came with the grinder and I dont really like the burrs left on the chain after grinding. I endup having to take a flat and round file to each tooth to remove the burrs after sharpening which is very time consuming. I am looking at trying to hook up a reverse rotation switch for the motor, but my brother is the electrician and hes doing hay now so the switch will have to wait

Depends on how big the burrs are.If they're small they'll about vaporize as soon as they hit some wood.If they're big and nasty they'll need some clean up.Or more wood.

 

[muddstopper]

Most of the time I dont worry to much about the burrs, dull chains dont take a lot of grinding. Its the heavy rocked chains that you get the big burrs. I usually just bump, bump, bump the wheel into the chain and that helps with the heat as well as the big burrs. but you know buggered chains take buggered grinding. The more you have to take off, the bigger the burrs. The burrs are always on one side, the edges away from you. I think if I can figure out how to reverse the grinding wheel, that should pretty much eliminate the burr problem.

 

[svk]

The one guy who often does my chains sometimes leaves small burs, these clean out in the first cut and his chains cut quite well.

 

[Ranchers-son]

 

[Ranchers-son]

Do you dress your grinding wheel?

 

[muddstopper]

I usually dress every couple of chains, but I normally dont sharpen 24in chains. Might be part of the problem, but I think it has more to do with the amount I have to grind out to clean them up. I have been going to the shop and grinding 3 or 4 at a time and have about half of them done. Hes not in any hurry and neither am I.

 

[svk]

Not sure if you are cleaning the chains before sharpening? @Philbert has some good posts about different techniques to degenerate them which adds significant life to your wheel.

 

[Philbert]

I try to dress the wheel every loop or so; or whenever grinding slows down; or if cutters start heating up; etc., using the small, silicon carbide stone that came with the grinder.

I have been happy with the MoleMab brand wheels from Bailey's (especially when on sale), the Oregon wheels, the Total Fireball wheels, etc. All are better than the OEM wheels typically supplied with the clone grinders.

Back to your original question I might start with a 25/60/0 grind with the normal 0.025 depth gauge offset. Don't take the wheel too deep: as noted, you are not looking for a deep hook with a fragile edge.

If you think that your friend can pay attention, maybe give him a few different settings and ask him which he prefers.

Degrease the chains, spray paint some yellow, some red, some blue, etc. (or find another way to clearly distinguish them). Sharpen at different settings, then re-lube. See which he likes.

Philbert