Blake's hitch binding up

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jack76

jack76

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Stoneland

I contacted new england rope and talked to steve the technical advisor. He talked to the in house arborists so they are aware of some problems. I don'tknow if they will tell purchasers to work the rope first and break it in or not. Thanks for the advice on one more turn
 
Greener

Greener

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I'm old school and have used blakes for years. They will bite from time to time, but I have found that you must use the highest quality rope. And are you using the same rope for the climbing line as on your tail (the one with the knot)? This is important too. If you rope climb frequently, I would consider changing to a beeline.
 
jack76

jack76

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greener

Thanks for the advice. I never had a problem with the hitch before. I use a 16 strand safety blue. I switched from the old safety blue to a new one climbing a different tree on the same day. I do use the tail from the same line.
I started climbing five years ago and I am 65. I haven't had any problem since I worked the new line in. I called the factory just to inform them what happened, figuring maybe the coating was the problem. Trying new methods is something I should do
 
Greener

Greener

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Thanks for the advice. I never had a problem with the hitch before. I use a 16 strand safety blue. I switched from the old safety blue to a new one climbing a different tree on the same day. I do use the tail from the same line.
I started climbing five years ago and I am 65. I haven't had any problem since I worked the new line in. I called the factory just to inform them what happened, figuring maybe the coating was the problem. Trying new methods is something I should do

Jack76, you are truly inspirational to me now that I know you are 65. I was hoping to continue climbing into my 50's. Now that seems like a definite possiblity. Happy climbing.
 
ozzy42

ozzy42

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I climb with a blakes and and new england rope and i have had a similar experience. Now i take three turns on the top, and it slides nice and easy. Im also 210 Lbs.

I think you're on the right track.
I use an arborplex for small trees when I don't want to drag 130 ft of rope around.
A two two blakes seemed to slip on me .I tried a two on bottom and one on top and it works a lot better on that rope.

It's only a 50 ft rope that I use for small trees that I use the blakes.
My primary is 130 hi-vee with ice i2i with a VT and a brass swivel.So much smoother than the blakes,but I'm too cheap to buy a 2nd setup for the short rope.
 
CNBTreeTrimming

CNBTreeTrimming

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I climb on velocity with a blue streak Blake's. When it binds which only happens for me srt you just have to take a lil weight off the hitch and pull the loop that goes around the blue streak. The coils on the rope don't cause the bite. When there is pressure from your weight on that loop it draws the coils tight. Similar to releasing a bowline.
 
freeweight

freeweight

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try not to tighten up so much when pulling the tail through

myself ,i use black/red/wh arbormaster ,with a blaze tail to tie a 6/2 blakes ,i havent had much of a prob ..i dont know what it is about this rope but it releases very adrupt with a 4/2 ,and a 5/2 blakes,will make the ol sphincter tightin up from time to time

anyway what works for others wont work for u (as well) u have to set everything up to YOUR preference
 
Iustinian

Iustinian

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For longer climbs I have a 200' Lava (spliced on both ends), using a Ultra-Tech eye-to-eye.

For dirty trees like siberian elms and pines - I have a 120' Blaze, using a different Ultra-Tech eye-to-eye

For shorter climbs I have a 100' 10.4mm Bluewater, using a 8mm Beeline eye-to-eye.

I usually start out with a Valdotain Tresse until the cord develops wear and "memory"; then I switch to a distel or michocain until I get a new cord shipped.

None of these three knots ever have locked up on me, but you guys using Blake's would have to get used to reefing the line hand over hand and tend the slack, unless you use the adjustable system I have pictured below. You can still bodythrust pulling on your line (without hand over hand reefing) and then pull the system down closer to your bridge for rope walking etc. Its a good system, but works best with a end/eye spliced rope.

062.jpg
 
defensiblespace

defensiblespace

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I've been climbing on safety blue with a blake's for 2 years and have never had a problem, but I am only 165 pounds. For the type of climbing I do, it is a great system. I would highly recommend using a split tail with a micro pulley if you haven't already. I also love using this system with a single line and pulley in the tree. It reduces the coefficient of friction while climbing and enables a ground person to lower you if you get hurt. It takes a little longer to set up, but is worth it for jobs where you will be pruning big, excurrent conifers. You can see an example of this system on page 50 of the Tree Climbers Companion. The other great thing about this system is it eliminates the need for a friction saver.
 
Iustinian

Iustinian

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I've been climbing on safety blue with a blake's for 2 years and have never had a problem, but I am only 165 pounds. For the type of climbing I do, it is a great system. I would highly recommend using a split tail with a micro pulley if you haven't already. I also love using this system with a single line and pulley in the tree. It reduces the coefficient of friction while climbing and enables a ground person to lower you if you get hurt. It takes a little longer to set up, but is worth it for jobs where you will be pruning big, excurrent conifers. You can see an example of this system on page 50 of the Tree Climbers Companion. The other great thing about this system is it eliminates the need for a friction saver.

post a pic. pleez :)
 

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