Boiler pump help

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autoloader

autoloader

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Well since cool weather is just around the corner I thought I would give my Hardy H2 a test run before I actualy needed to use it. When I pluged in the pump to the back of the unit the GFI triped so I reset it to have it trip again. I found cracks on three sides of the motor housing. This will be my 8th season with this unit and not a chance that this is from freezing.




Can I just replace the motor or do I have to buy the whole pump assembly? Any ideas on what happend or how to fix it?
 
just throwing in my 2 cents without knowledge on your system...

If the pump is from a respectable supplier you should have a chance to replace the engine but most design today will not allow that in a cost effective way (pump and engine share housing and shaft)

How this can happpen? the only thing i see possible is that the pump is blocked by not working for an extended period and when you switch it on the windings on the engine "explode" and crack the housing of the motor. (induction forces the windings to move, which they normally do by rotating, if that is prevented due to a blockage of the shaft the windings might move anyway and destroy the engine )

Had it a couple of times on one of our machines due to a failing limiter switch.

Now better help would be to put a timer module parallel with the normal circuit ( the 7 day programmable type) and have it switch on and off a couple of times every week just to give seizure no chance.

New gasboilers have a whole sequence running even when you switch off central heating and water heating altogether. Mine fires the burner for a minute or so (till a certain heat is reached in at the burner) every 24h as well as the 4 circulation pumps just to avoid any clogging.

:cheers:
 
The H2 comes standard with a Taco 009-BF5 all bronze pump.

The internal rotor and impeller are available as a replacement kit, but by your picture it sure looks like the water in the pump has frozen and cracked the outer housing and you will need to purchase the entire pump. Last time I priced one the entire pump it was close to $300.00.

You can remove the 4 bolts and pull the motor and impeller out of the pump housing and do some further troubleshooting.

I doubt the 1/8 horsepower motor would be able to crack the housing even if the impeller was locked. Any chance of a lightning strike?
 
Last edited:
NC4AB said:
The H2 comes standard with a Taco 009-BF5 all bronze pump.

The internal rotor and impeller are available as a replacement kit, but by your picture it sure looks like the water in the pump has frozen and cracked the outer housing and you will need to purchase the entire pump. Last time I priced one the entire pump it was close to $300.00.

You can remove the 4 bolts and pull the motor and impeller out of the pump housing and do some further troubleshooting.

I doubt the 1/8 horsepower motor would be able to crack the housing even if the impeller was locked. Any chance of a lightning strike?
Click to expand...


That is the correct make and model.




No chance that it froze but take a look at what I found when I pulled the motor off. It's full of corrosion. The impeller turns freely.


 
Looks like you had a leak in shaft seal or on the O ring on the impeller cartridge. Don't know many options other than a new pump.
 
The first link will be a heck of a deal if it can be bought for that price.

The Hardy recommends no ferrous metals in the piping system. If you do install a ferrous metal it becomes the weak spot in the system and will be corroded fairly quickly.

It might be an option to buy the second link (cast iron pump) and just use the windings and motor housing if the pump housing its self is still serviceable.
 
Sorry to bring up an OLD thread lol

I had this exact thing happen to my pump last week. Went out and noticed the GFI outlet had been tripped. Reset everything and plugged it back in and it tripped again. Gave the pump a once over and noticed a pretty similar crack in the bottom of it.

Seems like it was indeed a broken seal and some corrosion got in there.

I am getting a new pump that is bronze since I read that you can't use cast iron pumps on the Hardy's (although I wish you could they are a LOT less expensive pumps) but my question is what do I need to do to ensure this doesn't happen again?

Should the seals be replaced regularly?

I have shut off valves on both sides of the pump so the install isn't difficult. Price tag sucks but I'm very glad this happened in warm weather as opposed to cold weather. (sorry to those of you who are still getting snow lol)
 
Seals on the newer wet rotor circ's are non-replaceable, unlike the old B&G 100 series, for example. Why does Hardy spec a bronze pump? It's a must if you have a DHW heater built in, for that side, but not for regular boiler water, and what ar eyou doing/using for water treatment in the boiler?
 
Hardy's are completely stainless steel (even the firebox) so it is my understanding that if you use cast iron, the pump itself will become the "anode rode" and corrode very quickly.

However if I'm incorrect in that, I'd rather use the cast iron since they are much less expensive lol.

Water used is rainwater poured through a filter. Hardy doesn't recommend water treatment when rain water is used.

I'll check with the dealer. Maybe there is a seal warranty? Worth a shot I guess lol.

Either way, I'll be more prepared next time so if this were to happen in cold weather I'm good to go.
 
Encore said:
Hardy's are completely stainless steel (even the firebox) so it is my understanding that if you use cast iron, the pump itself will become the "anode rode" and corrode very quickly.

However if I'm incorrect in that, I'd rather use the cast iron since they are much less expensive lol.

Water used is rainwater poured through a filter. Hardy doesn't recommend water treatment when rain water is used.

I'll check with the dealer. Maybe there is a seal warranty? Worth a shot I guess lol.

Either way, I'll be more prepared next time so if this were to happen in cold weather I'm good to go.
Click to expand...

I can see that point, however I would want some type of biocide/corrosion inhibitor in the system, like the chemical I use in my CB.
 

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