Broke down and bought a new 660

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JakeLeg

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well I was debating going with a 390 husky or a 660 to go with my 460s and bought a 660 today. They also had a used one season 361 that looked mint for 425 I should have bought. I knew the guy that had it and he trades every year just for the warranty. But I don't need it or do I:greenchainsaw: but I was wondering where is the best place to order the 3/4 wrap handle and large clutch cover. Also I modded my own muffler on my 460s but should I just stick with a dual port on the 660.
 
Nice saw!

You get the dual port or open up the stock cover. Either way works fine. The dp cover has a built in spark arrestor and it also has a deflector. Either way, I'd open up the stock hole to 5/8" also.
 
well I was debating going with a 390 husky or a 660 to go with my 460s and bought a 660 today. They also had a used one season 361 that looked mint for 425 I should have bought. I knew the guy that had it and he trades every year just for the warranty. But I don't need it or do I:greenchainsaw: but I was wondering where is the best place to order the 3/4 wrap handle and large clutch cover. Also I modded my own muffler on my 460s but should I just stick with a dual port on the 660.

madsen's
 
Great choice!!!!!!

go with the factory dual port cove and enlarge the existing hole in the muffler casing as previously mentioned to 5/8" reset the carb and sling chips!!!!

You will have to remove the limiter caps on the carb,,, order the proper tool to remove the caps and whle you have em out cut off the inner tabs,,,

after you fatten up the fuel mixture pop the caps back in and you will be good to go,, do a search and you can find all the info you need,,,,

the 660 is a great saw,,,,, :cheers::clap::clap::cheers:
 
I modded one of my 460s kind of like mojos with a slash cut piece of 7/8 i.d. pipe and fattened it up and she screams.But was thinking of putting the dual port on and keep the saw looking new for a while. Thanks P.S. I just screwed a deck screw in my limiters on my other saws, but like the sounds of not tearing them up and poping them back on after I adjust it tell me what this tool consists of, and I'll search for it. If this baby is better then my 460s then its a hell of a saw. :greenchainsaw:
 
go with the factory dual port cove and enlarge the existing hole in the muffler casing as previously mentioned to 5/8" reset the carb and sling chips!!!!

Do you enlarge the hole in the dp cover to 5/8" or the original hole on the side of the muffler?

Any pics?

I have a 660 with a dp cover, but i have not modded any of the muffler components, just added the dp cover, and retuned the carb.
 
Congrats! Its a beast of a saw! I love mine! There is nothing like throwin a 36" bar on and tearing it up.

UrbanLogger, you enlarge the hole in the casing of the muffler. Not the cover. I havent done it yet, but maybe tomorrow if im bored.
 
Do you enlarge the hole in the dp cover to 5/8" or the original hole on the side of the muffler?

Any pics?

I have a 660 with a dp cover, but i have not modded any of the muffler components, just added the dp cover, and retuned the carb.

Do a seach on 660 muffler exhaust casing port sizes (or something like that)

Lakeside53 did one and covered it pretty well and lately Tzed250 posted a few pics of the difference....

BTW the Stihl Puller for the limiter caps PN is 5910 890 4500

the front casing DP cover for the 066/660 is 1122 140 0800

you can buy the whole muffler with the 5/8 outlet and a dual port front cover but thy are about 90 bucks plus tax,,,

the Dp cover is about $35-38.00,,, the puller is about 7.00

its not hard to open the side hole,,,, just remove the muffler (you dont want to get metal shavings in your new saw!!!!!) then the spark screen by bending the tabs open,,,, a long carbide cutter will work wonders,,,, dont get carried away,,, then clean up all the loose cuttings,, re-install screen, then the muffler w/new DP cover,,remove limiters,,, reset the L&H gently all the way in (count how many turns it takes for them to bottom out,,, then back out @ least 1 1/4,,,, warm up the saw with a minimum a 1/2 tank of premium mix,,,, (synthetic oil is the best) set idle to about 2400-2500,,, if you dont have a tach turn the Idle up till the chain starts to race then back it off until it stops,,,,,,, next make a mental note of the L screw slot before you start,,,then find the happy spot on the L screw by turning in and out till the saw starts to stumble in both directions,,, you may have to readjust the idle if the chain/clutch starts to engage (usually about 3200 rpm) it should accelerate good there,,, if it stumbles when you gas it,,, come out slightly on the L (Small adjustments) until it has a good snappy spool up,,,,,

then @ full throttle back out on the H screw until the saw starts to four stroke.... (burble/blubber) then back in just a smidge,,,,,,, better to have it a little rich then take the chance of Frying your new play toy!!!!!!!!

BTW,,, dont leave it WO for and extended period of time out of the wood WO RPM varies with the length of you B/C a 36" bars RPM should be a few hundred RPM less than sa a 20-24" b/c...

Happy cutting!!!!! :greenchainsaw::cheers:
 
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