I hung this one today .
A 2$ yardsale Hults Bruks on a 1$ yardsale ash handle .
A 2$ yardsale Hults Bruks on a 1$ yardsale ash handle .
Broke my axe handle
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My OxHead maul .
Notice winch way the grain is .
Notice winch way the grain is .
cedarhollow
ArboristSite Guru
there is nothing quite like a good piece of hickory
After years of replaceing 10speed handles, I went to plastic. Plastic handles dont break, but they will work loose in the head. I remember almost 40 years ago, I worked with a guy that broke every hammer handle he picked up. He stood about 6'6" and driving spikes just wasnt his cup of tea. One day the boss brought in a whole box of fiberglass handled hammers. he handed the big guy one and told him "lets see you break that handle". Big guy took the hammer and wacked it about 3 or 4 times across the rail and shattered the handle and gave it back to the boss, boss man just stood there with his mouth open and shaking his head.
I dont use a axe enough to wear a handle out. When I do have to rehandle one, I like to warm up the axe head before driving in the handle. I"ll put the handle in as tight as I can and drive my wedges, when the axe head cools off, it grips the handle even tighter. I like to line my wedges up with the length of the axe head, instead of across the head. Dont know if it really makes any difference, but it seems like putting wedges across the head starts the handle splitting.
I dont use a axe enough to wear a handle out. When I do have to rehandle one, I like to warm up the axe head before driving in the handle. I"ll put the handle in as tight as I can and drive my wedges, when the axe head cools off, it grips the handle even tighter. I like to line my wedges up with the length of the axe head, instead of across the head. Dont know if it really makes any difference, but it seems like putting wedges across the head starts the handle splitting.
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That is the purpose of the Linseed Oil. It makes it slippery for fitting, and as it is absorbed it expands the wood while preserving it, and doesn't dry out.
The metal wedges are put in perpendicular to the length to push the front and back of the handle's checks into the axe head. I have one in diagonal because I didn't have a smaller one, and yes you don't want the metal wedge to get to close to the axe head and possibly splitting the wood (a first failure point).
nosurprise87
ArboristSite Lurker
Nice looking axe there. I like the vintage axe heads with a 28 straight hickory handle for banging wedges. I tried a Fiskars x27, didn't like the feel with the bottom of the handle flared out to a point. Split pretty good with head design and possibly a coating of some sort.
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I had a coupon for Cabelas, and decided to drive to Coeur D'Alene, and dropped in to view axe handles at Home Depot. About a dozen 36" single bit handles, and not one had the grain running in the correct direction. One had the grain running diagonal, but was 2 tone with a darker shade of wood running most of the length and the grain wasn't tight. It's like all the rejects get sold as replacement handles.
My shiny red painted axe head isn't looking so hot any more. I haven't even started cutting firewood yet and the axe is already looking well used.
My shiny red painted axe head isn't looking so hot any more. I haven't even started cutting firewood yet and the axe is already looking well used.
Very possible.
I know you can pay a little extra from House Handle Co and they will give you a select grade replacement which should have better grain.
Here's my 5lb Norlund Maine wedge that I hafted on a straight 38 hickory last weekend .
Not tried it yet in the woodpile .
The jury is out on that .
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FYI, it was very moist and humid this late winter and early spring, and I found that gun oil on your axe will prevent the rust for forming. Just saying... 
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I can agree with that. I haven't had much trouble finding handles locally although I will usually look at 20 or so of them before I pick one.
The folks on here who have purchased from House Handle have been very happy FWIW.
nosurprise87
ArboristSite Lurker
I think Beaver tooth makes some nice handles too. I also like to see what I am buying but figured I would take a chance on 1 handle and selected handpicked #1 grade, to my surprise I have received nice handles. I still buy them one at a time. I'm convinced " in my mind anyway" that ol Jr at the handle company is making minimum wage and really isn't that interested in picking out the best handles so one at a time for me when I can't see the handle I am buying.
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nosurprise87
ArboristSite Lurker
Here's my 5lb Norlund Maine wedge that I hafted on a straight 38 hickory last weekend .
Not tried it yet in the woodpile .
The jury is out on that .
Nice handle on the 5lber.
The video review makes me gun-shy of house handle. Guy said he paid for hand picked no.1 grade.
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He points out a lot of things to look at and watch for when choosing a handle other than just a pretty piece of wood .
Here's my 5lb Norlund Maine wedge that I hafted on a straight 38 hickory last weekend .
Not tried it yet in the woodpile .
The jury is out on that .
What's the story behind the lines on the older handle?
The lines on the picaroon start at the head for measuring.
12" , 16" and 24"
12" , 16" and 24"
