brush cutter blades
- Thread starter mbayer
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It depends what you are going to be cutting, disk for the larger stuff. "Triangular shaped" for the smaller stuff, up to about 1/2 inch. Well that is what i do.
Edit: my descriptions are way too vague considering the number of attachments available, should find what you are looking for here;
http://uk.catalog.stihl.com/products/trimmer/cut.htm
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What trimmer are you using ?
alderman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use a 40 tooth for brush and 80 tooth for saplings. The 3 tooth are too jumpy for my taste.
I've also got a couple with the chainsaw teeth but haven't used them yet.
I've also got a couple with the chainsaw teeth but haven't used them yet.
cuttingintime
ArboristSite Guru
Please be very carefully, all of them can be dangerous. The triangle shaped one are very problematic. We had a death of a young girl years ago from a broken blade striking her.
msvold
ArboristSite Operative
Depending on your definition of 'alot' you may want to consider using a carbide tooth blade. I have a 9 inch blade, with I think 62 teeth. Used it for over a year on my 20 acres of heavy wooded area, still cutting great. Cost is a bit higher, but for me with more work than time, I don't anticipate ever using the steel blade that came with it. I have cut up to 4 inch trees, let alone tons of 1/2 inch to 1 inch brush.
I use the three tooth blade for herbs and brush up to about 3/4". If the brush is dry and tough then 1/2" is about it. The MS250 is set up with this blade. I use a toothed blade and and a stop on an MS180 that I've had for 20+ years.
The three tooth blade is a Windsor and the toothed blade is Stihl. The Stihl blade is sharpened with a round file and a setting tool. IIRC Pferd has a file handle with a setting tool built in.
The three tooth blade is a Windsor and the toothed blade is Stihl. The Stihl blade is sharpened with a round file and a setting tool. IIRC Pferd has a file handle with a setting tool built in.
I have a 40 tooth stihl blade and it goes dull quick. I'm disappointed in it.
I purchased the guide and file specifically for the blade. It does a great job sharpening but the blade just doesn't stay sharp. I'm cutting persimmon, oaks, and osage orange all green in the 1-3" diameter range.
Blade is on a stihl FS250
Where can you get Tusmura? I googled it and got nothing.
I purchased the guide and file specifically for the blade. It does a great job sharpening but the blade just doesn't stay sharp. I'm cutting persimmon, oaks, and osage orange all green in the 1-3" diameter range.
Blade is on a stihl FS250
Where can you get Tusmura? I googled it and got nothing.
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sunfish
Fish Head
I just cleared a 1/4 mile old logging road, using a Stilh FS110R with the round chainsaw tooth blade. Cutting stuff up to 3" and it did OK. There is a learning curve with this type of cutter.
bigredd
ArboristSite Guru
Couldn't imagine doing a job of that scale without bike handles and a good harness.
sunfish
Fish Head
I only worked at it 2-3 hours at a time and used a chainsaw for the larger stuff. But bike handles, more HP and a harness would have been very nice!
I've got the FS-250 with bike handles and the deluxe harness. Plenty of horsepower, but I need a better blade.
Anybody had one of the chainsaw type blade come apart?
I bought a 200T off craigslist that is faster than using the 250 but I stay bent over cutting everything off at ground level.
Gary
Anybody had one of the chainsaw type blade come apart?
I bought a 200T off craigslist that is faster than using the 250 but I stay bent over cutting everything off at ground level.
Gary
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Sorry, I don't know who might do them in your neck of the woods. I don't even know who'd do them here 'down under', I just read it in one of their catalogues recently and was surprised to see it as I've never really thought of them as doing anything other than great bars.
Given total super bars from tilton equipment are Tsumura I went to their site to see if they did bruschcutter blades but couldn't see anything close to the Tsumura ones. One thing I did notice over there though was their beaver blades which have saw chain on them. Has anyone tried them? Would be easy to sharpen, but I don't know how long they'd hold an edge when cutting that close to the ground. Could be pretty dangerous if not careful too.
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Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Normally we use the triangle cutter blades on our clearing saws. Those blades are ok for the smaller stuff but I would like to step up to a carbide for bigger material and to either level off or to get small stumps down a little lower to the ground after using our brush mower without having to use a chainsaw.
I have seen some carbide blades on e-bay. I don't know if they will fit our Sthil clearing saws.
Does Stihl make or I should say resell carbide blades at an inflated mark-up for their clearing saws like a 450 or 550??? I have had it with their toothed circular saw blades, they just dull out to quick for cutting larger marerial. I made an exra effort the last time I sharpened one and it still went dull after a short time. On small stuff it worked great but choked on the larger stems.
I went down to the the hardware store and see if I could use a carbide tipped circular saw blade but the arbors were too small and I figured this might not be such a good idea to enlarge the arbor or the steel in them might not be designed for clearing saw type work. I don't need to get injured just because I am trying to cut our overgrown fenceline back from the edge of a field. Scratch that idea for now anyway.
I have seen some carbide blades on e-bay. I don't know if they will fit our Sthil clearing saws.
Does Stihl make or I should say resell carbide blades at an inflated mark-up for their clearing saws like a 450 or 550??? I have had it with their toothed circular saw blades, they just dull out to quick for cutting larger marerial. I made an exra effort the last time I sharpened one and it still went dull after a short time. On small stuff it worked great but choked on the larger stems.
I went down to the the hardware store and see if I could use a carbide tipped circular saw blade but the arbors were too small and I figured this might not be such a good idea to enlarge the arbor or the steel in them might not be designed for clearing saw type work. I don't need to get injured just because I am trying to cut our overgrown fenceline back from the edge of a field. Scratch that idea for now anyway.
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msvold
ArboristSite Operative
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zogger
Tree Freak
thinking about a mini harvester last month
I do a lot of flush cutting of smaller 'weed trees" and I kept thinking something like a small fast chain saw mounted to like a two wheel hand truck with a remote throttle trigger. So you could stand up and do tons of little trees fast. Like most of my wild azz ideas it never went beyond that. I have string trimmers, one with a saw blade attachment, then a big kaw engine push string trimmer, plus a walk behind little heavier brush cutter...none of them can cope with little trees as fast as a chainsaw down at ground level.
So something like a "harvester" but human propelled and smallish, like running a lawn mower maybe or like I said, a two wheel hand truck handle bar thing.
I have a scythe as well, but past tiny sapling..naw....Brushooks are OK for ditches, but not on the flats.
This leaves nothing between a rip snorting huge brush hawg and what we got now, which don't work for mass quantities of two-three inch trees, especially when you got to tippy toe careful around fencelines and t posts and so on.
How about just a chainsaw thing, but like mounted on a "snath" type handle?
I'm running out of ideas here...
Of course I have never run one of those top of the line hand held brush cutters, maybe they work well..outside my pay grade right now...
I do a lot of flush cutting of smaller 'weed trees" and I kept thinking something like a small fast chain saw mounted to like a two wheel hand truck with a remote throttle trigger. So you could stand up and do tons of little trees fast. Like most of my wild azz ideas it never went beyond that. I have string trimmers, one with a saw blade attachment, then a big kaw engine push string trimmer, plus a walk behind little heavier brush cutter...none of them can cope with little trees as fast as a chainsaw down at ground level.
So something like a "harvester" but human propelled and smallish, like running a lawn mower maybe or like I said, a two wheel hand truck handle bar thing.
I have a scythe as well, but past tiny sapling..naw....Brushooks are OK for ditches, but not on the flats.
This leaves nothing between a rip snorting huge brush hawg and what we got now, which don't work for mass quantities of two-three inch trees, especially when you got to tippy toe careful around fencelines and t posts and so on.
How about just a chainsaw thing, but like mounted on a "snath" type handle?
I'm running out of ideas here...
Of course I have never run one of those top of the line hand held brush cutters, maybe they work well..outside my pay grade right now...
bigredd
ArboristSite Guru
+1
Especially do not try rigging a circular saw blade or using a blade for cutting something it is not designed for. There is a good reason Manufactures do not permit circular blades on loop handle trimmers.
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