Bucking Large Logs

[mountainlake]

I like to lay a few limbs/firewood pieces perpendicular to the direction of tree fall and let the trunk rest on them. That keeps the log off the ground and the saw out of the dirt. If that's not possible, then there is almost always a spot on the trunk that is off the ground every few feet, and it's just a matter of cutting through at this point so that the cuts can be made from the top, piece rolled, and the cut finished going up. Simple takes a bit of practice to get good at it.

Best reply yet, it takes about 2 seconds to dull up a chain in the dirt. I told my dumb BIL to keep the chain out of the dirt, then I'd watch him put the tip 3 inches in the dirt, he'd never get more than 20 minutes out of a chain. Steve

 

[user 122190]

Cant hooks are great. On something other then level ground, a log to large still needs to be cut short to turn it. I find when making a dicey complete cut to put a wedge in tight. When the log is fully cut the sudden opening is more noticeable and can often avoid putting the tip into the dirt or rocks.

All you need is a cant hook to roll the log. Two hooks with two people can roll a huge log. Even one person can roll a big log with this tool.

And practice to know where your cut is happening.

 

[NeSurfcaster]

I like the cut 3-4 sections till you get threw one then roll the log to finish those first few cuts. Also the post about the color of chips helps as long as you have your saw level to the ground or tip up slightly. The rpm's + sound will rise when you get to the bark at the very end of your cut.
Also I've never used the log rolling tools since we have a forklift/winches. But that video on here last week w/ the crazy Amish saw mill really showed how helpful those log rolling tools are.

 

[JTM]

You can drive a wedge and it will lift the bottom.

 

[Old2stroke]

If I get really stuck and can't find a place off the ground to cut through, or in a situation where I can't roll the log, I have a long flat wedge (14" long and 6" wide) that I made out of ironwood that I drive under the log and then cut down into the wedge rather than hit the dirt.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

All of the tips I have read so far will be helpful and will work. From what I cut some times 24'' is not big at all , but when they are hard to wiggle them they can be just as big a problem as a 72'' log. Some times the small stuff will slow you down more than anything. I have never seen a log that could not be lifted a little. My go to solution is similar to the suggestions the last few AS members suggested. I just use Pine limbs or Oak limbs that are at least 6 to 10'' in diameter to make some wedges. Then I drive one wedge from one side then as soon as I can see it I go to the other side and place another one on top of it. I will do the same three or four places near the end that I want to raise. Remember all you are trying to do is get it away from the dirt that has rocks in it. Quite often I will make several cuts from the end, but not try to go all the way through. Then dig out the area that you decide would make the log manageable. Make the cut all the way through where you have chose and roll it a little. Thanks