Bucking: What I learned today.

[slowp]

Several years ago I sent my daughter & ex-son-in-law the money to move back home. Would that count for my 2 if I'm ever so inclined?

Andy

Only if they actually moved back. I think that would be South of the Orygun Boundary and East of the same.

I like my wedges to match my saws and hat. I think the contractor who needed the road open came up and hiked up the hill farther than needed, cut the nasty hemlock, and drug it a quarter mile down the road. So, I shoveled out enough of the glacier to get through but came upon a long glacier about a half mile up the road. We must have patience this year....
Or a dozer to plow with.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

have them powder coated.
much, much more durable finish.... and 'powder coated' even sounds girly!

Oh man, ya beat me to it.

Do some pink grip coating on the wrap bar.

 

[BIG JAKE]

What is the purpose for a boring cut? I'm 23 and have known how to use a chainsaw for YEARS. Actually my first time with one was when I was 8. But still don't know the do's and don'ts. My hardest problem is bucking a log on the ground and before I can pull the bar out it gets pinched. Anyway to prevent that. Excuse me for my question, I just want to learn how to buck and fall the right way. I don't want to be like that poor sap on youtube that every cut he makes the bar gets pinched. Is there possibly some videos on youtube showing the right way to buck and fall a tree. Oh and one more thing my dad alwayse said it better to ask then to find out the hard way. So please don't knock me for my questions.

Pops on the bucking, pay attention to how the log lays on the ground and where the stresses are on/in the log before you start. Limbs propping up a tree are stressed and in turn stress the main trunk. Learn to judge what's going to happen for every cut-You won't always be right, but you'll be right more and more. Be careful what you cut and where you stand. When in doubt, go slow or step back & look things over. Sometimes when you can't tell for sure, cut slow and watch. Why slow, because it buys you time if you :censored: -up.Re-assess the tree continuously as you cut because what you take off the tree changes things all the time. Practice looking at the log before you cut, then make a judgement on where you want to start. Compare what happens with what you thought. That's how you learn. Cut a little slower and watch the kerf until you get better at it. The guy in the video is just cutting without thinking-you'll pinch alot that way and maybe get hurt when something under tension pops you or a log lands on your leg/worse. So safety first, but remember your judgements and learn by them. Cut with an experienced cutter/faller they can teach you alot, but always weigh what is said-they may not have a clue either. Tree to tree can be similar but never the same, that's why you read them all. Hope this helps a little-it's what I do anyway:greenchainsaw:

 

[strongback]

I learned about the plastic wedges late in life but they definitely help. Especially, when I'm cutting logs out of a dumped pile and don't want to expend the effort required to drag them off the pile and neither can they be rolled to finish the cut. I've picked up a lot of useful information here on AS that would have saved me a lot of heartache and pain had I learned them sooner.

 

[mile9socounty]

is that a child?

Actually I believe it's one of out AS members. Though I'm not going to swear my saws on it. Yes sir, very long video just for so little cutting. It irks me.

 

[metalspec]

... Yes sir, very long video just for so little cutting. It irks me.

And he gets his bar pinched on just about every cut.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Today I recertified as a bucker--renewed the green card. I like doing this because I get to learn things from the guys who do the certifying. Twinkle was very sharp but, as Twinkle will do once and a while while boring, Twinkle kicked back. The instructor, gave this tip, which helped on the next boring cut. When you are boring in with the tip of the bar, wiggle or wobble it a little side to side while cutting and it will help to prevent a kickback. It seems to work, I don't know why.

I was talked into letting somebody else use Twinkle. Mistake. I came down the hill where I was doing traffic control on a trail, and saw Twinkles bar going into the dirt. The guy offered to file the chain but I went ahead and filed it, and hope I have salvaged it. I guess that was a learning experience also. More Barbie Stickers are needed!!

OK. Since I started this website I have learned so much. I've learned new terms, and seen terms I have never heard of. Now boring I know is a term while drilling with a drill. Please tell me what boring is with a chain saw. Bruce. P.S I hope Twinkle gets feeling better, sore teeth and all.

 

[Tzed250]

OK. Since I started this website I have learned so much. I've learned new terms, and seen terms I have never heard of. Now boring I know is a term while drilling with a drill. Please tell me what boring is with a chain saw. Bruce. P.S I hope Twinkle gets feeling better, sore teeth and all.

An example here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVH3ShnhMRA&feature=related

 

[mile9socounty]

And he gets his bar pinched on just about every cut.

Indeed he does. But everyone learns right? Either the hard way or someone showed them.

 

[pdqdl]

Nobody seems to have answered the question:

A boring cut is where the tip of the bar is used to plunge a cut into the wood using the length of the bar. It is a rather dangerous technique, and is seldom used. Absolutely essential in some places. Damned difficult to pull off if you are using anti-kickback chain.

Using wedges to reduce pinching is a fine technique, but I almost never get out the wedges. I prefer to "ream the cut" , by widening the kerf at the bottom of the cut when it begins to close. This is a technique that works best on bigger logs, and is also a little bit dangerous. Kickbacks are easy to get if you are not careful.

If you are not familiar with these techniques, I suggest getting a good book and reading up on them. There just isn't enough room or time here to explain all the critical details.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Nobody seems to have answered the question:

A boring cut is where the tip of the bar is used to plunge a cut into the wood using the length of the bar. It is a rather dangerous technique, and is seldom used. Absolutely essential in some places. Damned difficult to pull off if you are using anti-kickback chain.

Using wedges to reduce pinching is a fine technique, but I almost never get out the wedges. I prefer to "ream the cut" , by widening the kerf at the bottom of the cut when it begins to close. This is a technique that works best on bigger logs, and is also a little bit dangerous. Kickbacks are easy to get if you are not careful.

If you are not familiar with these techniques, I suggest getting a good book and reading up on them. There just isn't enough room or time here to explain all the critical details.

Thanks for the input. It sounds like taking a sword, and running it through something, or somebody basically, but with a chain saw. I've done this with trees, that I was falling, because of lack of room. 2 trees joined together, didn't want to damage the other tree. I had no idea that this is what you called it. Thanks. Bruce.:greenchainsaw:

 

[slowp]

OK, the very first post of this had the hint that I learned to prevent or make the kickback less which was:

Wiggle wobble the bar just a little as you bore in. It works. The reason I did a bore cut was that the bar would be pinched coming down from the top, and I wanted to come up from the bottom instead of wedging and possibly sawing dirt. There was about an inch of clearance between log and dirt on the bottom. The Doug-fir was about 22 inches diameter at the cut, and 90 to 100 feet long...so rolling it over was not an option. I was being tested, and decided to do it that way --the testers consider it a more advanced way to cut. They were the ones who mentioned wiggling the bar as you bore.

So, since the pinch would happen on the top, I started on the top just a little, worked it over the far side a ways, came back and went down on the top till it started to close up, ran the bar down the nearside, wiggle wobbled a bore cut into the bottom and came up. Log parted, log bucked. Just one of many ways to buck a tree up. Not necessary every time. I thought the wobble wiggle was a good thing to know. Trees are different, saws are different, we all have different abilities. I used Twinkle the 440, 28 inch bar, and full skip round file chain-- but only have a half wrap handle.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

OK, the very first post of this had the hint that I learned to prevent or make the kickback less which was:

Wiggle wobble the bar just a little as you bore in. It works. The reason I did a bore cut was that the bar would be pinched coming down from the top, and I wanted to come up from the bottom instead of wedging and possibly sawing dirt. There was about an inch of clearance between log and dirt on the bottom. The Doug-fir was about 22 inches diameter at the cut, and 90 to 100 feet long...so rolling it over was not an option. I was being tested, and decided to do it that way --the testers consider it a more advanced way to cut. They were the ones who mentioned wiggling the bar as you bore.

So, since the pinch would happen on the top, I started on the top just a little, worked it over the far side a ways, came back and went down on the top till it started to close up, ran the bar down the nearside, wiggle wobbled a bore cut into the bottom and came up. Log parted, log bucked. Just one of many ways to buck a tree up. Not necessary every time. I thought the wobble wiggle was a good thing to know. Trees are different, saws are different, we all have different abilities. I used Twinkle the 440, 28 inch bar, and full skip round file chain-- but only have a half wrap handle.

I've been running chain saws for almost 30 years, well 27 to be exact. Since I have joined this website, I have learned terminologies that I have never heard of. Done lots of boring cuts, and didn't even know the term for it. Never heard of Square Toothed chains, Racing Saws.
This website is very interesting, very knowledgeable, very informative as well. I enjoy myself here on this website. My wife says I spend too much time on here, and not enough time with her. I've been sent out to the dog house even. Only problem, he takes up too much room, and snores louder than my Macs, while cutting. I try to limit my time here, But you know how it is. It's hard to get away.
Bruce.

 

[Tzed250]

OK, the very first post of this had the hint that I learned to prevent or make the kickback less which was:

Wiggle wobble the bar just a little as you bore in. It works. The reason I did a bore cut was that the bar would be pinched coming down from the top, and I wanted to come up from the bottom instead of wedging and possibly sawing dirt. There was about an inch of clearance between log and dirt on the bottom. The Doug-fir was about 22 inches diameter at the cut, and 90 to 100 feet long...so rolling it over was not an option. I was being tested, and decided to do it that way --the testers consider it a more advanced way to cut. They were the ones who mentioned wiggling the bar as you bore.

So, since the pinch would happen on the top, I started on the top just a little, worked it over the far side a ways, came back and went down on the top till it started to close up, ran the bar down the nearside, wiggle wobbled a bore cut into the bottom and came up. Log parted, log bucked. Just one of many ways to buck a tree up. Not necessary every time. I thought the wobble wiggle was a good thing to know. Trees are different, saws are different, we all have different abilities. I used Twinkle the 440, 28 inch bar, and full skip round file chain-- but only have a half wrap handle.

A great post!

 

[ropensaddle]

Just buck it and run like heck rope trees

 

[Burvol]

OK, the very first post of this had the hint that I learned to prevent or make the kickback less which was:

Wiggle wobble the bar just a little as you bore in. It works. The reason I did a bore cut was that the bar would be pinched coming down from the top, and I wanted to come up from the bottom instead of wedging and possibly sawing dirt. There was about an inch of clearance between log and dirt on the bottom. The Doug-fir was about 22 inches diameter at the cut, and 90 to 100 feet long...so rolling it over was not an option. I was being tested, and decided to do it that way --the testers consider it a more advanced way to cut. They were the ones who mentioned wiggling the bar as you bore.

So, since the pinch would happen on the top, I started on the top just a little, worked it over the far side a ways, came back and went down on the top till it started to close up, ran the bar down the nearside, wiggle wobbled a bore cut into the bottom and came up. Log parted, log bucked. Just one of many ways to buck a tree up. Not necessary every time. I thought the wobble wiggle was a good thing to know. Trees are different, saws are different, we all have different abilities. I used Twinkle the 440, 28 inch bar, and full skip round file chain-- but only have a half wrap handle.

I've been tellling ya, get a full wrap on Twinkle!!! You should get one good full comp square ground on Twinkle and you'd be hooked. I know you'd probably have to find someone to grind it for you, but you'd be amazed at how smooth they buck! I don't care what anyone says, out on the west slowp of Adams the timber is quite soft, and your saw would pull a hot square chain just fine. It's the only way to go for me, but you might get some flack, just brush it off, they don't have a clue what they are missing in nice soft timber!

 

[slowp]

I ran a saw with square ground on it and it was wonderful, until I hit the pavement. I didn't even know it was square ground and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get it sharp with the round file, then I talked to one of the loggers and he tried not to laugh and explained it. He succeeded--barely--in the not laughing but I bet he did afterwards. I'm a lot better now, but still hit the occasional roadbed or the ash clump so I'll stick with the stuff I have. Twinkle has been doing well except it got hot Friday--70s so she whined a lot.

 

[GNAR13]

Reading this thread made me think...here in fla, its pretty flat and you always end up with a bunch of trees where the whole trunk in laying flat on the ground. i've seen a lot of people get their chains in the dirt when bucking trees like this when they're too big to roll. any secret to keeping this from happening?

 

[ropensaddle]

Reading this thread made me think...here in fla, its pretty flat and you always end up with a bunch of trees where the whole trunk in laying flat on the ground. i've seen a lot of people get their chains in the dirt when bucking trees like this when they're too big to roll. any secret to keeping this from happening?

I use my grapple truck lift it some then cut! They make a hand held
timber jack but looks like peta for large wood. I would use a tractor
jack if I had that happening too much. I usually try to find a spot
in the middle of a log than I can make a clean cut and then use a
can't hook to roll the logs after!

 

[Haywire Haywood]

If you go to youtube and watch that video there, the title is "Will's First Tree". That explains a lot but I'm not very good at reading stressed limbs either. That's why I carry 2 saws. One to get stuck and the other to cut it out. I've never managed to get them both stuck at the same time.

Ian