Building My First Mill

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Got to work on the mill a little more this weekend. Started adding the handles and brackets to hold them. Also made the pedestal that will hold a thin wall SS vertical handle on the motor frame. Now I have to make the brackets that will allow me to adjust the height of the handle as needed.

Just haven't had much spare time the past few weeks. A little work is better than no work I guess.

jerry-
 
Nice work Jerry. :clap:

I can't wait to see the dust fly. :chainsaw:

Nice old Ford to.
 
Nice work Jerry - it's certainly starting to look schmick!!

With respect to the long/tall handles it looks like you're trying to reduce the amount of bending over needed which is a very good thing. :clap:

On the other hand, have you thought about how applying forces to the top of such long handles might tend to tip the mill over even just a little? So To counteract this the handles will need to be angled (just like you have done) to provide some vertical downward force to keep it balanced. This downward force then becomes a waste of force (and energy). The most energy efficient application of force is to apply it as close as possible to the direction required.

This is why I lift the log at one end, less bending over and the mill goes downhill partially assisted by gravity so minimal forces are needed in the horizontal direction especially for a softwood log. The handles are then primarily used to steer the mill around lumps and bumps in the sides of the log. The greatest forces on the handles are usually counteractive, ie pulling on one handle while pushing on another.

The placement of a pair of handles is probably best determined by something like equidistant from the centre of gravity (COG) of the mill, and wide enough apart to get some leverage but not so wide that you have to spread you arms too far and things get too uncomfortable. Although I realize they can probably be moved the two separate vertical handles on your mill are currently too close together and probably a long way from the COG. To get a handle either side of the COG you may need to put a handle close to or on the powerhead itself. It's amazing how for us "older guys" a small thing like lifting a log and handle placement can be the difference between feeling "tired" or "exhausted" at the end of a day of milling.

I hope you can make sense and use of some of these comments. I'm all for experimenting and you got nothing to lose by trying this stuff so it will be very interested to see how it all works.

Cheers
 
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Nice work Jerry - it's certainly starting to look schmick!!

With respect to the long/tall handles it looks like you're trying to reduce the amount of bending over needed which is a very good thing. :clap:

** Yes, the old backs not like it used to be.

On the other hand, have you thought about how applying forces to the top of such long handles might tend to tip the mill over even just a little? So To counteract this the handles will need to be angled (just like you have done) to provide some vertical downward force to keep it balanced. This downward force then becomes a waste of force (and energy). The most energy efficient application of force is to apply it as close as possible to the direction required.

** I'm going to try this handle in both directions with the radius up and then down to see which way works best.


This is why I lift the log at one end, less bending over and the mill goes downhill partially assisted by gravity so minimal forces are needed in the horizontal direction especially for a softwood log. The handles are then primarily used to steer the mill around lumps and bumps in the sides of the log. The greatest forces on the handles are usually counteractive, ie pulling on one handle while pushing on another.

** I saw your BIL video and plan to let gravity help move the machine down the log. I saw one of your other mills and did you add some Teflon to the rails to make it slide easier?

The placement of a pair of handles is probably best determined by something like equidistant from the centre of gravity (COG) of the mill, and wide enough apart to get some leverage but not so wide that you have to spread you arms too far and things get too uncomfortable.

** I'm hoping that radius is enough to spreads the down force to the COG as we exert pressure to move the machine through the wood. I'm hoping the motor has more than enough power to actually try to pull it's way into the wood.

Although I realize they can probably be moved the two separate vertical handles on your mill are currently too close together and probably a long way from the COG. To get a handle either side of the COG you may need to put a handle close to or on the powerhead itself. It's amazing how for us "older guys" a small thing like lifting a log and handle placement can be the difference between feeling "tired" or "exhausted" at the end of a day of milling.

** I haven't added the handle yet that mounts to the power head that I will also use to push with and will try to get it farther out towards the motor. I'm also planning on adding another handle for the nose end operator to use.

I hope you can make sense and use of some of these comments. I'm all for experimenting and you got nothing to lose by trying this stuff so it will be very interested to see how it all works.

** Thanks for the input, believe me I have tried to learn from other mills I have seen here on the milling thread.


jerry-
 
I love the GT 350 cap on the mill. I think I like the actual GT 350 in the garage even more.

Had to use the cap for the pictures...

It's a spare original cap I have for my 1966 GT-350H. It was the Red/Gold HERTZ rental at the Oakland Airport. I bought it wrecked in 1971 for $700 and spent 2 years putting it together with a 10 bolt Toploader. I know I should have put it back to it's original colors, it's just that I liked the W/B scheme. I have a a set of magnesium Mini-Lits on the car and love them. Even the lug nuts are magnesium. I built SCCA/Trans-AM cars for 15 years and this is the car that got me started.

jerry-
 
I saw one of your other mills and did you add some Teflon to the rails to make it slide easier?

Both the BIL mill and my small mill have polyethylene skids on the rails, not quite as good as teflon but much better than metal on metal or metal on wood.

With respect to the mill pulling itself into the log, if that is too severe it can impede the forward motion of the mill. One was to reduce this effect is to add wheels or rollers to the inboard clamp. I got this idea from Railomatic. Placement of the wheel(s) is important and should be as close as possible to or on the line of cutting otherwise the curvature of the log may limit the contact of the wheel with the log

On my small mill I have a single (ex-roller blade) wheel. This works very well for a small mill.
attachment.php


On the BIL mill I am in the process of building a two wheeled setup - once it is finished I will post some pics.
 
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Both the BIL mill and my small mill have polyethylene skids on the rails, not quite as good as teflon but much better than metal on metal or metal on wood.

With respect to the mill pulling itself into the log, if that is too severe it can impede the forward motion of the mill. One was to reduce this effect is to add wheels or rollers to the inboard clamp. I got this idea from Railomatic. Placement of the wheel(s) is important and should be as close as possible to or on the line of cutting otherwise the curvature of the log may limit the contact of the wheel with the log

On my small mill I have a single (ex-roller blade) wheel. This works very well for a small mill.

Like the wheel, mine needs that. I might try something similar. Thanks. I'm out of bullets though...
 
I finally worked on the mill again today. I've been reading and looking at all the posts on oiling the nose of the milling bars and figured out how I will do the oiling on my mill not using a chainsaw. I hard silver brazed on a steel 1/8" pipe fitting I machined on the lathe. I will now be able to oil the nose of the bar without worrying about boring out a slotted bolt and hoping it doesn't come loose from vibration. See attached photo of oil fitting brazed to nose of bar. I drilled a hole in the bar that will allow oil to be pumped into the bar grove.

Tomorrow I will be working on drilling and taping an aluminum block for 1/8" pipe for oiling the bar at the power head end. I have to use my plasma cutter to cut a circle through the hardened bracket that the power head mounts to, I don't want to damage my good large drill bits drilling a hole that doesn't need to be exact in size, just clearanced to get a socket in for tightening the fitting. If I ever need to remove the fitting it will be very easy.

jerry-
 
I finally worked on the mill again today. I've been reading and looking at all the posts on oiling the nose of the milling bars and figured out how I will do the oiling on my mill not using a chainsaw. I hard silver brazed on a steel 1/8" pipe fitting I machined on the lathe. I will now be able to oil the nose of the bar without worrying about boring out a slotted bolt and hoping it doesn't come loose from vibration. See attached photo of oil fitting brazed to nose of bar. I drilled a hole in the bar that will allow oil to be pumped into the bar grove.

Looks good Jerry. Certainly nice and strong and good to see you getting back onto your mill and saw.

Another reason why holes and bolts are used is because when the bar is turned over the oiling now comes before the nose and oil gets flung off as the chain rounds the nose. I guess you could braze another pipe fitting on the other side.

The location of the pipe fitting after the nose sprocket means you lose some cutting length. On my hardnose bar my outboard oiling point near the end of the bar meant I could get 39.5" of cutting length from a 42" bar. On the BIL mill upgrade I use a 42" sprocket and 60" roller nose bars, I have gone for a simple "drop the oil on the bar/chain contact line". At first I was not very happy with this system because a lot of oil pools on top of the bar and I wanted to change it to get more oil into the groove but after a month of use the level of wear on the chain and bar does not seem to be any worse than using the bolt thru the nose method. I guess it comes down to using "drop the oil on the bar/chain contact line" and then using a bit more oil, or hole in the bar and forgoing some cutting length.
 
Looks good Jerry. Certainly nice and strong and good to see you getting back onto your mill and saw.

Another reason why holes and bolts are used is because when the bar is turned over the oiling now comes before the nose and oil gets flung off as the chain rounds the nose. I guess you could braze another pipe fitting on the other side.

** I'm ahead of you Bob, I did drill another hole on the opposide of the bar and machined a second fitting. I only installed one fitting to see how the oiling will work before I braze a second fitting to the bar. It would only take me a few minutes to add the second fitting.

The location of the pipe fitting after the nose sprocket means you lose some cutting length.
** I lost about 1/2" of bar length from what I had.

but after a month of use the level of wear on the chain and bar does not seem to be any worse than using the bolt thru the nose method.
** If the system I made doesn't work well I'll try using the bolt method. I'm trying to minimize the amount of oil getting on the wood so I'm also going to put a check valve on the oil pressure line from the pump so it won't bleed down when the machine is no operating. The pump is from an automotive, clutch master cylinder and will produce more oil than I think I'm going to need.

I guess it comes down to using "drop the oil on the bar/chain contact line" and then using a bit more oil, or hole in the bar and forgoing some cutting length.
** You got it! Gonna play with the plasma cutter. I have to cut out the flange for the exhaust pipe from some 3/8" stainless steel plate. Off to the shop. Sun's out and it looks like it's going to be nice day today.

later
jerry-
 
** You got it! Gonna play with the plasma cutter. I have to cut out the flange for the exhaust pipe from some 3/8" stainless steel plate. Off to the shop. Sun's out and it looks like it's going to be nice day today.

All good - That plasma cutter sure sounds like a nice bit of gear.

I used to worry about getting oil onto the timber but even milling an 18" diameter log with full flow (19 mL/min from the power head and 40 mL/min from the aux oiler) doesn't seem to leave visible oil on the wood and it all seems to be absorbed by the sawdust. When I wash the slabs down I can sometimes see a thin sheen of oil on the water but this is always from clumps of sawdust stuck to the wood surface.

One of the nice things I discovered about using a bicycle gear change lever for aux oil flow control is the built in click position marker. I have set it up so I can use click position 3 for 1/4 flow, position 4 gives me 1/2 flow 5, 3/4 flow and 6 - full flow, positions 1 and 2 are off, For most <20" wide cuts I don't use the aux oiler. For ~24" I typically run the aux oiler at about 1/4 flow, 30" 1/2 flow, etc. It also depends on wood hardness and dryness.
 
All good - That plasma cutter sure sounds like a nice bit of gear.

I used to worry about getting oil onto the timber but even milling an 18" diameter log with full flow (19 mL/min from the power head and 40 mL/min from the aux oiler) doesn't seem to leave visible oil on the wood and it all seems to be absorbed by the sawdust. When I wash the slabs down I can sometimes see a thin sheen of oil on the water but this is always from clumps of sawdust stuck to the wood surface.

One of the nice things I discovered about using a bicycle gear change lever for aux oil flow control is the built in click position marker. I have set it up so I can use click position 3 for 1/4 flow, position 4 gives me 1/2 flow 5, 3/4 flow and 6 - full flow, positions 1 and 2 are off, For most <20" wide cuts I don't use the aux oiler. For ~24" I typically run the aux oiler at about 1/4 flow, 30" 1/2 flow, etc. It also depends on wood hardness and dryness.

Well Guys, I didn't work on the mill today like I had planned. As I was headed out the door my hunting buddy called and talked me into going varmint hunting. I ened up calling this male Bob Cat in and took him with my TC Contender in 7-30 Waters at 130yds.


attachment.php



I'll work on the mill tomorrow.

jerry-
 
Hey Jerry- good shot! Those TC Contenders seem to be a good rig.

They are fun to shoot and collect. I have many barrels for my two frames. I just got my SS Pro-Hunter Encore from the custom shop and had them make me a 15" SS Fluted Bull barrel chambered in .17AI Bee (Ackley Improved). I'm going to do a trigger job on the trigger assembly before I start my work-up loads that I will chronograph.

jerry-
 
[I'll work on the mill tomorrow.]

I worked on the aluminum block that I will use for pumping oil to the chain on the power head. I got it drilled and taped for the 1/8" pipe fitting.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85108&stc=1&d=1230524022

With Fitting

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85109&stc=1&d=1230524077

I then had to cut a hole in the frame that holds the poer head so that I can run the oil line through the frame, a 3/8" spacer and then into the aluminum block I had milled to the correct thickness so that when I install the block with the oil fitting it will have enough clearance to install/remove the fitting with a deep socket. I used my plasma cutter for cutting the heat treated frame. I made an aluminum circle pattern using a hole punch and then clamped it to the frame centered on the spot where the oil line needs to pass through the frame. It worked great!

Before...

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85110&stc=1&d=1230524466

After...
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85111&stc=1&d=1230524519

I then cut out the SS flange with the cutter since I had everything out and setup. You sure get spoiled using a plasma cutter on SS.

Rough Exhaust Flang...

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85112&stc=1&d=1230524647

I'm hoping that Monday I can start putting things back together since I had to take everything apart to do this work.

BobL/Guys, I have really been thinking about changing the way I mount the bar to the frame by eliminating the bottom piece that clamps/holds the bar together to the way your BL/Aggie's mill bolts through the bar. I did a sample pilot hole in an old bar today with the plasma cutter and it took all of 5 seconds to cut the hole using a circle pattern. There was very little heat, so I'm thinking I can cut the holes in the bar and bolt the bar directly to the frame. This would simplify changing/adjusting the chain. What do you think?

jerry-
 
BobL/Guys, I have really been thinking about changing the way I mount the bar to the frame by eliminating the bottom piece that clamps/holds the bar together to the way your BL/Aggie's mill bolts through the bar. I did a sample pilot hole in an old bar today with the plasma cutter and it took all of 5 seconds to cut the hole using a circle pattern. There was very little heat, so I'm thinking I can cut the holes in the bar and bolt the bar directly to the frame. This would simplify changing/adjusting the chain. What do you think?
-

It will certainly simplify changing the chain and it's what Will Malloff recommends on his milling arrangements.

I originally favoured the idea of being able to make a mill on which use any chain saw could be used which is what the "double sided clamp on both in and out board" design is able to do. But now that I have been milling for a while the benefits of the various custom features on a mill have become obvious and I also figured that there are no hard and fast rules and different features will suit different people.

As I have said before, because I mill some oddly shaped logs I approach mill design from the perspective of "maximizing the cutting length of of the bar" so I like to connect the mill to the saw by the bar bolts and to hold the nose as close as possible to the end. Of course a solution to that is just to get a longer bar which I have done but that also weighs more. As I get older weight becomes more and more of an issue and I can see my next mill being very simple and light and the mill bolted direct to a bar has to be a winner.
 
Made My Exhaust Pipe Finally

I finally had some extra time to work on the mill again last week. Remodeling a bathroom is not what I call a fun experience when I would rather be playing with toys...

Anyway, I finally roughed out my exhaust pipe for the 820 Power Bee motor I'm using on the mill. I will make the spark arrester to fit inside the pipe and a baffle to try deadening some of the nose. I have made the pipe so that when I operate the mill it will be exhausting out to my left side. I think I will wrap it with some of that exhaust header pipe insulating material so I can't burn myself. I sort of like the Zoome look to the pipe. I made it from 2" tubing and the flange is stainless steel I cut with my plasma cutter.

I'll only need to make the chain tension assembly, attach the fuel line and have a couple of chains made to fit.

jerry-
 
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