Buy MS261C or keep MS361

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Which saw?


  • Total voters
    27
I had a ms362, was a good/reliable saw with a 20" bar she was great....as CAD progressed I also got a 024, 026, and a 461....I found myself using the 461 for 18" and bigger hardwood, anything under 18" the 024/026 get used....

I sold the ms362 month or so ago...I just never used it anymore...

I have heard quite a few guys are liking the V2.0 261...
 
I had a ms362, was a good/reliable saw with a 20" bar she was great....as CAD progressed I also got a 024, 026, and a 461....I found myself using the 461 for 18" and bigger hardwood, anything under 18" the 024/026 get used....

I sold the ms362 month or so ago...I just never used it anymore...

I have heard quite a few guys are liking the V2.0 261...

I have a recent M-tronic 261C that is fun and easy to use. It's pretty much taken over duties that my little homeowner 211 used to perform, and a whole lot more.


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I have a recent M-tronic 261C that is fun and easy to use. It's pretty much taken over duties that my little homeowner 211 used to perform, and a whole lot more.
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Great little saws for Aussie woods up to 16". I find if I try using my MS261 on bigger stuff 20"-30" you over work yourself and the saw. A set of factory double dawgs/roller catcher from the ms362 is a worth while addition.
 
Great little saws for Aussie woods up to 16". I find if I try using my MS261 on bigger stuff 20"-30" you over work yourself and the saw. A set of factory double dawgs/roller catcher from the ms362 is a worth while addition.

Or I just drag out the MS461!


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My MOFO ported 026 is hands down my favorite limbing saw, I call it my Lightning Limber!

That said, if I have to go into a hard to get to place and am only bringing one saw for everything, it will be either a 60 or 70 cc saw, and I have 2 of each. (MOFO 360, MMWS 362, 044, MS440 (later 2 not ported, but modded by me).

All of my saws get used on a regular basis. I try to assess the job at hand, and pick the best tools for it. And I do like backup. If I rock a chain, etc, I'll just pick up the next saw and keep going. Don't like to wast time on the job.

Did you get a job with a tree service mike ?
 
What's the difference between a v1 and a v2? I'm sure there's a thread, but searching 261 on here brings up about a million results.


It definitely has some age on it, i think its an early 90s model. But it still has great compression and runs like a champ (except when you're a dumbass and let it flood), so why get it rebuilt? Porting would be nice, but I'm happy with the power it has, so I was thinking to spend the money on a saw that needs more power.


The size doesn't bother me, wider feels more controlled in my experience. I think that's part of why I'm not fond of how a Husky feels, because the ones I've used felt too narrow. It will be stored in a case, so it will take up the same space as a 361 or 046 in that regard.
Have you ever fell timber for a living you want a narrow width body saw that's less you're leaving on the stump not getting paid, not stihl saws will vibrate my hands into pulp by the end of the day personally.

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Even cast iron (in the form of a new table saw for the shed), as hard as it is, will cushion the blow of the two saws leaving.
Had a wee splurge lately on a dovetail jig extravagance (a real blow-out for me and I'm feeling guilty because there is no way I can justify what I spent), so any other purchases of toys can't come from savings, leaving selling other things off as the only other option. I swear some tools have worked that out and are now hiding on shelves and behind other tools, hoping they are not next on the chopping block.
 
Have you ever fell timber for a living you want a narrow width body saw that's less you're leaving on the stump not getting paid, not stihl saws will vibrate my hands into pulp by the end of the day personally.

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So basically you're talking the distance from the left side of the chain to the right side of the saw body?
 
Have saws in 10cc increments from 40 to nearly 90cc displacements mostly just for fun and clearing storm damage(and the associated firewood), my general go to saw is my MS260 that is wearing a 16" .325" bar driven by a 8 pin sprocket. When I have a bigger chore, I switch to a 362 with a 20" .375" bar with a 7 pin sprocket. If I come across a really big project out comes the 038 MagII with a 28" or the 288 with the 36" bar. So there, I've justified the need for four of my saws, now I just need to explain away the other 10.<LOL>
 
No, but my services seem to be in demand. Cut a Spruce down for someone this morning and have two other people that want numerous trees down, so between that, splitting wood, fixing saws, time with the Grandkids, and my real work, I tend to stay pretty busy.

Get insurance..i learned the hard way before it had it.
 
If you had to pic one saw that would cover just about every job (36") plus trees excluded - keeping in mind it would be used for every situation. Felling,de-limbing,and bucking what size saw would you pick ?
 
Yeah !!!
 

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Im not sayin that a 70cc doesnt fit the bill but ive cut some big timber with a 60 cc. A good port job and quality muffler mod they will cut with a stock 70,put a sugi or es light on i guarantee you go cut for 8 or 10 hrs straight youll notice a difference. So what if it takes a second more on the stump. If your loggin your timber you spend more time on the small end anyway. I have pairs of every size saw, i started my wood buisness with a 041 and an 028 have probably owned just about every saw you can think of ran a 034 super and an 036 for over 15 yrs with a 044 and 371 as my "big saws " ran 18" on 34/36 and 28's on the 44 and 371 cut everything from 8" diameter to 40" plus timber. You can cut a bigger tree with a 20" than you think if you know what you're doing
 
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