CAD kicking in...Stihl 036 Pro

[goatchin]

CAD kicking in...Stihl 036 Pro (PICS)

I picked up a used/parts saw from the small engine shop last friday for $25. It looks nice on the outside but a bit rough on the inside...I'd say abused.

The piston is definatly shot, havent got to look at the cylinder walls other than through the exaust port-I see some light scoring/coloration but not sure yet on full extent of damage. The muffler front cover+bolts is missing along w/ 2 screws from the recoil cover.

The 20" stihl branded bar (lettering worn off for further ID-didnt happen to look at the etchings by the powerhead end) is shot-rails wore down and sprocket tip teeth wore down to a point. Chain is 3/4 life but the drivers are worn due to overly worn sprocket.

I really saw/realized what the saw had been used for before the top end toasted when I took off the clutch cover....bale saw-was used for cutting round balage apart for easier feeding (not on saws though). It finally dawned on me when I found twine wrapped around the drive shaft behind the sprocket...and the I smelled the "grass" on the clutch cover and could still smell the sweet fermenting smell from the balage.

So far I've gotten the clutch/bar stud area cleaned up. I've pulled off the sprocket (wore way past the marks-couldnt get a good pic of that) and drum. The drum doesnt seem to be worn too bad (other than where the clutch shoes make contact is all scored to a blue color-replace or useable??)but I've gotta get a pair of calipers to measure thickness. It has a lot of burned on balage and oil. Needle cage bearing is all caked up-not gonna frig w/ it, just gonna get a new one.

My question for right now is concerning the clutch. being that the drum looks to have been overheated, is there a way to tell if the clutch too has become overheated and may become faulty??? the clutch itself if full the the burned on oil/balage and the oil pump area behind it, so im going to remove the clutch and clean that out and inspect the oil pump. I looked through the Service manual (Thanks West Texas) torque tightening section and cant seem to find the specs for the clutch...what should it be??

Thats all for now...just figured I would share my find and ask a few questions

 

[Lakeside53]

Just replace the clutch springs and try it. If the drum wobbles exessively, it's toast. Make sure the oil pump isn't burned/broken, and the oil drive arm and worm are intact.

Great buy....

 

[goatchin]

ok thanks

Since this is my first Stihl saw that im buying parts for, is my best bet to just take my part #'s to a local dealer and have them order them? Baileys doesnt seem to have much for the 036 pro's. some of the parts and screws i can gather from other places, so some things wont be a problem.

 

[goatchin]

today I just about completely disassembled the saw once i saw how much crud was built up on it all over...decided it would need a clean up.

The saw was subject to "el staighto gaso-no mixo" LOL-tank had straight gas in it. Cylinder only has deposits on it. I've heard some talk about Muretic(sp) acid to loosen the deposits off-please explain how this is done, or is this recommended much any more??-OR-If if I finally got hone, would this work to get the deposits off?

There seems to be some side play in the crank rod coming from the piston, Is there supposed to be some??

I'm having problems getting the clutch off so i can get to the oil pump-I've already got the cylinder off, so im having a hard time getting the crank from rotating. any tips other than putting the cylinder back on and finding myself a piston stop?

Will some 034, 360 and 361 parts fit this saw?

 

[2000ssm6]

Be careful with the acid, it is very powerful. Wet a q-tip and try to get the old arumimun off the cylinder wall. The acid is used to take the big parts of arumimun out, then make a nice cross hatch with a hone.

Some side play is normal due to the bearing design but no up and down movement should be there.

I use a impact to take off clutches, electric or air will work but have a good feel for the tool or you will be looking for a crank. Put the jug back on, you can coil some small rope in the spark plug hole to use as a piston stop.

I don't believe 361 parts will fit but a few 034s and most 360s will.

 

[Mad Professor]

Muriatic acid (6 N) is 1/2 concentrated hydrochloric acid (12 N) diluted with water ( V:V). It will eat your clothes, skin and eyes, be careful. Strong acids react with some metals (i.e. aluminum, magnesium) depending on their reduction potential. That is they dissolve/oxidize them to water soluble salts. Most cylinder liners are nickel/chromium or chromium which do not react/oxidize with most acids. Careful wiping WITHOUT touching the underlying aluminum will remove/dissolve melted on piston deposits. Rinse with plenty of water and IMMEDIATELY rinse any spills to the aluminum beneath.

Have a concentrated baking soda solution (a mild base pH ca. 8) on hand in case of accidents with the acid.

 

[Stihl051master]

Put the jug back on, you can coil some small rope in the spark plug hole to use as a piston stop.

This works well.

Another option other than putting the jug back on is just to put two small blocks of wood (or just a notch for the rod in one piece) and slide it between the piston and the case. Roll it over by hand until the piston comes down on your "stop," then remove the clutch with your favorite impact, socket, wrench, kung fu grip, etc.

 

[goatchin]

Muriatic acid (6 N) is 1/2 concentrated hydrochloric acid (12 N) diluted with water ( V:V). It will eat your clothes, skin and eyes, be careful. Strong acids react with some metals (i.e. aluminum, magnesium) depending on their reduction potential. That is they dissolve/oxidize them to water soluble salts. Most cylinder liners are nickel/chromium or chromium which do not react/oxidize with most acids. Careful wiping WITHOUT touching the underlying aluminum will remove/dissolve melted on piston deposits. Rinse with plenty of water and IMMEDIATELY rinse any spills to the aluminum beneath.

Have a concentrated baking soda solution (a mild base pH ca. 8) on hand in case of accidents with the acid.

So I'd still be safe using the q-tip like 2000 said...that way I dont have any extra liquid running around on the surface. We've used the acid before around here on the farm for a few things or another...so stong schite

This works well.

Another option other than putting the jug back on is just to put two small blocks of wood (or just a notch for the rod in one piece) and slide it between the piston and the case. Roll it over by hand until the piston comes down on your "stop," then remove the clutch with your favorite impact, socket, wrench, kung fu grip, etc.

I tried using a wooden dowl throught top of the shaft and "duh" wooden down didnt work, tryed laying a pair of same sized screw drivers under the piston (no good so didnt matter) but they didnt stay in place long enough for my patience so i walked away and called it a day. I'll try your idea of notching a block of wood and try that...if that fails then i'll go route of rope in top on cylinder.....and if i only ordered that damn piston stop awhile ago


thanks for the help guys:greenchainsaw: keep the comments/ideas coming!!

 

[Stihl051master]

The block should work well for you - I've used it on 3 saws on the past month, and on some snowmobile engines in the past when the jugs were off and I needed to pull the clutch,

I see it's in my Stihl 051 manual. You could use it as an assembly block too when you put a piston on to make your life easier, and if its wide enough it will cover the case to keep from dropping a circlip in there, not that I have ever done such a thing......

 

[goatchin]

Naw more like i need a magnetic canopy going around my work area...dang Stihl cir-clips dont have the bend/hook on the one end like the huskys do (372 at least). Got my pair of needle nose plyers grabbed on to it finally and then next thing i know i hear a TING as the cir-clip hits the metal over head door and is no longer to be found. good thing the new piston is coming with new clips LOL

 

[goatchin]

Just replace the clutch springs and try it. If the drum wobbles exessively, it's toast. Make sure the oil pump isn't burned/broken, and the oil drive arm and worm are intact.

Great buy....

I got the clutch off today with the help of the wooden block and socket. I was finally able to find the oil pump once I cleaned off nearly 1/4" of ground/shredded organic matter and oil...pump itself is not discolored or anything. One thing that I'm not under standing is where or how the oil drive arm is supposed to be-Is it supposed to hook to anything-the curved end? When i took the clutch off it was attached to anything, just to the plastic worm deal....maybe some body could explain its operation to me, please?

I was finally able to find most of my parts on Bailey's website except for a gasket set (Is there a exaust gasket-alls i took off the saw was a metal piece that is cut to a regular gasket shape and indentation), piston pin bearing, and exaust front casing.

any help with oiler arm deal will be much appreciated:greenchainsaw:

 

[goatchin]

Bump

double checked service manual and dont find any "function" related info on the oiler arm....any takers from here?

 

[Bowtie]

There is a notch in the clutch drum that the oiler worm gear spur hooks into. Once you take off the clutch drum look for a notch in the drum. Make sure the plastic gear on the worm drive isnt burned up or stripped out.

 

[goatchin]

ok gotchya...know where your talkin bout now and makes sense-not oiling when at idle.

The worm gear is not burned up or any threads stripped out-I can feel the the plastic worm gear mesh with the oil pump shaft threads.

kinda of a random question but why does my 372xp husky's oil adjustment screw turn twice (i believe) and this one on the stihl only turn a half turn? is it b/c the husky is a bigger profesional saw? or is it a stihl design compared to a husky design?

 

[Bowtie]

Just a difference in design. The 036 is a professional saw.

 

[goatchin]

I finally got around to using the muratic acid on the cylinder today. I observed all saftey procautions as advised by all. That schite really smokes when ya first open the bottle lol.

It worked out pretty good. It loosened up a good 90% of the deposits. I took a chunk of my scotch brite pad and scrubbed it good with the acid still on the jug walls. I was able to loosen up the rest of the deposits cept for 2 spots that I can just barely feel as i lightly swipe my finger across the area....i hope that when i get it honed those 2 spots will diminish a little bit-I think thats all that it will take. Anybody think different?

 

[Bowtie]

I believe you are going to be in good shape from what you describe. Just dont go too crazy with the hone. Do your research on how to hone chainsaw NiSi cylinders. Many people dont even hone cylinders after cleaning them up. Just stick a new piston and rings in. Matter of preference I suppose.

 

[goatchin]

I dont own a hone as of yet, I'm gonna call the engine rebuild shop 2 towns south of me that bores out lawn tractor engines for a friend that competes in the lawn tractor pulls. I figure that since he bores out the cylinders that he prolly has hones...but i dont know if he has one small enough for a 48mm

if not then yea i'll have to do some reading and unlining of my pockets if ya know what i mean lol...cheaper than i thought though. I'll be buying the aftermarket piston kit from Baileys.

thanks for the help