Canola oil as bar lube

[.404]

Adding honey is a bad idea, may attract bears.

lol

 

[Trx250r180]

This must be made from the canola and honey ,it is in a bear bottle

Could be a marketing gimmick though ,who knows ...........

 

[Big_6]

During the use of a saw Stihl new to me, I was slinging Canola. Not to discredit Ragnar, but when the chain hit stump dirt, bar heat Stihl became apparent. The dull chain no longer produced the curls and laying into the bar didn't improve cutting efficiency.

 

[Metals406]

I like that Forest Circus article.

A very good friend of mine will soon pass away from an almost 2 year battle with stomach/esophageal cancer.

He's cut timber for over 40 years full-time. That's a lot if petroleum products inhaled and ingested!!

Rapeseed oil is always a back and forth on its health effects in/on humans.

I have found Canada oil treats wood handled tools well. . . Even reviving grey handles that are checked out and appear ruined. It also protects the steel portion as well. It can get tacky with buildup, so I totally understand cleaning your saw now and then. I would just run saw gas through for a few and call it good.

Anywho, I'm on board if it would have stopped my friend from dying. He'll starve to death from his cancer before he dies from the cancer. . . A horrible way to die.

 

[olyman]

BTW windthrown, shortly after I got you fired from your janitor position at General Dynamics, I decided to quit my post as Lead Scientist over the Rocket Department and go to play for the Lakers for a few seasons. Remember me your boss Kurt Rambis? I always felt a twinge of guilt about the whole deal, but I needed more exercise.

you, a lead scientist? yup!! buts its the lead used in bullet manufacturing,,and thats what your head if full of.. that and bird dung....

 

[El Quachito]

I am not entirely sold on the virtues of Boiled Linseed Oil for treating tool handles...I would welcome an experiment with canola to see how it fares.

 

[windthrown]

So called 'boiled' linseed oil has several drawbacks. BLO is not UV resistant it attracts and fosters mildew growth. Many prefer raw linseed oil, but that takes forever to dry. I prefer polymerized tung oil for wood tool handles. I use walnut oil on wood counters and cutting boards. I do not think that canola would make a good wood oil preservative on any surface, regardless of all the BS claims and troll hype that it is indigestible and a toxic substance. My nephew is a cabinet and countertop maker, and he says that canola oil will rot wood.

Pretty much all of these oils will never dry out, rot and go rancid on you: olive, canola, corn, soybean, palm, sunflower, cottonseed, rapeseed, peanut, coconut, coco, etc.

 

[El Quachito]

I never used more than my own dirty hands to condition a tool handle with, but I got into fixing up old tools and axes and I thought I would give BLO a try since it is mentioned in some back-to-the-land type publications and is all over the Internet as well.

I don't use it on the tools I actually use. The thought of that substance rubbing into my skin is not attractive to me. Stuff is too nasty for my likes, I had a pair of dipped in rubber style knit gloves and it made a mess of the rubber on the palm.

 

[Chris-PA]

I never used more than my own dirty hands to condition a tool handle with, but I got into fixing up old tools and axes and I thought I would give BLO a try since it is mentioned in some back-to-the-land type publications and is all over the Internet as well.

I don't use it on the tools I actually use. The thought of that substance rubbing into my skin is not attractive to me. Stuff is too nasty for my likes, I had a pair of dipped in rubber style knit gloves and it made a mess of the rubber on the palm.

I've used BLO on quite a few tool handles as well as steel parts and other iron hardware. I like it, but I don't regard it as a permanent coating and expect to renew it periodically. The snath on the scythe I restored came out real nice.

 

[El Quachito]

I've used BLO on quite a few tool handles as well as steel parts and other iron hardware. I like it, but I don't regard it as a permanent coating and expect to renew it periodically. The snath on the scythe I restored came out real nice.

Do you wipe it on & off with a rag or do you apply it more heavily on the steel? I just bought a gallon the other day, so I cannot claim to reject the stuff 100 percent.

 

[Chris-PA]

Do you wipe it on & off with a rag or do you apply it more heavily on the steel? I just bought a gallon the other day, so I cannot claim to reject the stuff 100 percent.

I don't wipe it all the way off but I don't leave it dripping either.

 

[betterbuilt]

I've been using canola oil for a long time.

The problem with boiled linseed oil is it isn't really boiled and is full of fatty proteins that makes it go rancid. The picture I attached has pure tung oil in it and you can see the fats have separated. I've been using purified raw linseed oil(on the left) on a lot of handles and exterior tables and so far i've been happy with the results. I've been experimenting with bee's wax and purified raw linseed oil and I'm liking the results.

The coconut oil that's a solid at room temperature does not go rancid.

 

[_RJ_]

Do you wipe it on & off with a rag or do you apply it more heavily on the steel? I just bought a gallon the other day, so I cannot claim to reject the stuff 100 percent.

I let sit 10 minutes or so then wipe off excess, then apply another even coat and repeat until I feel the wood is saturated enough. For me though BLO is NOT a final coat. I take a heat gun and apply a beeswax/turpentine/BLO mixture. And that's usually for stuff that I plan on not using much or something that is going to see most of its life in the barn. For wood handle tools that I use a lot, like axes, picks and etc. I use several coats of BLO then a couple coats of Danish oil that is mixed with Tung oil. Tung oil is nice and tacky when dry and weather resistant.

 

[Wood Doctor]

One of my customers bought a Stihl 024 saw from his older brother who used cooking oil for years to lube the bar and chain. There is only one thing wrong with this saw after I rebuilt the engine, replaced the tank housing tuned it up, and did other things as well. The saw will not oil the bar. Cleaning it out has proved virtually impossible. Can anyone offer any advice to fix the problem before we scrap the saw?

 

[Justsaws]

One of my customers bought a Stihl 024 saw from his older brother who used cooking oil for years to lube the bar and chain. There is only one thing wrong with this saw after I rebuilt the engine, replaced the tank housing tuned it up, and did other things as well. The saw will not oil the bar. Cleaning it out has proved virtually impossible. Can anyone offer any advice to fix the problem before we scrap the saw?

Acetone, well ventilated work space and zero ignition sources. Very rough on the painted surfaces. A strong caustic should do it as well but has its own negitives.

 

[Justsaws]

I used Canola oil for bar lube in the past and will probably use it again in the future. Main drawbacks were increased consumption of bar lube(1gal Dino equaled 1 1/3 gal Can), frozen solid bar lube, molded or mildewed over very fast on what ever it was on if combined with saw dust in humid weather and it did not function as desired with the hardtip bars or longer bars. Main benefits were cost, has to be healthier than cheap Dino recycled bar lube, and it washes out of clothes way easier.

I have used most the the seed or nut oils to treat wood or bind paint and will say that all have their uses or at least their place in the cabinet. Canola oil can be a good choice for people with nut allergies or sensitivity to flax seed oil. The only thing that it should never be used for is cooking, tastes horrible, smells horrible.

 

[cheeves]

S

I like that Forest Circus article.

A very good friend of mine will soon pass away from an almost 2 year battle with stomach/esophageal cancer.

He's cut timber for over 40 years full-time. That's a lot if petroleum products inhaled and ingested!!

Rapeseed oil is always a back and forth on its health effects in/on humans.

I have found Canada oil treats wood handled tools well. . . Even reviving grey handles that are checked out and appear ruined. It also protects the steel portion as well. It can get tacky with buildup, so I totally understand cleaning your saw now and then. I would just run saw gas through for a few and call it good.

Anywho, I'm on board if it would have stopped my friend from dying. He'll starve to death from his cancer before he dies from the cancer. . . A horrible way to die.

So sorry to hear about your good friend!! Have lost 3 good friends in the past 2 years to cancer! An epidemic is going on and our nations health agency's are keeping it quiet!

 

[windthrown]

Well, to add a tad to this thread, of late canola oil is up around $11 a gallon here now so I flipped to soybean oil. Called vegetable oil most places, it seems to oil as well as canola. Its also a lot cheaper here at $7 a gallon. Bar oil here is about $13 a gallon, if you can find it. Gone are the days of cheap $5 a gallon bar oil at Walmart. Its $10+ there now. Also as for bar wear, seed oil results in less for me using seed oil than when using bar oil. Seed oil is environmentally non-toxic. As compared to petroleum oil which is about 1000 times more toxic. As said by several previously, it can stiffen up the chain if a saw is left unused. But that is easy to loosen up. I have never had a oil pump fail or a line clog up on me using veggie oil. I have been using this now in all my saws for about 12 years now. Seed oils were invented for industrial use.

As for eating these seed oils, that is a different story. I avoid that now. I eat saturated fats like palm oil, coconut oil, lard, tallow and butter. Regarding eating saturated (or even unsaturated) fats, its the sugar that will kill you, not the fat. 1/2 of table sugar is fructose, and none of the cells in your body can use fructose. Your liver converts ALL the fructose that you eat into FAT, while the other 1/2 of table sugar, the glucose, spikes your insulin levels. With high insulin levels you cannot burn fat. The insulin prevents it. So when eating sugar you pack on the fat. You also will develop insulin resistance and diabetes over time. That leads to more serious diseases. The sugar, not the fat.