Can't afford new truck. Should I replace engine?

[J.W Younger]

if this is not your daily driver chances are the fuel may be old. if this is not the case ignore this. put some fresh fuel in it give it good drive if it still runs rough or misses put plugs in it. no you can't sue me if i'm wrong

i'm just practicing

 

[Boogieman142]

I think that i would find the source of your problems with it first before i replaced the motor. As long as its got decent compression and cyl leakage is low then i would work with what u have. It probably could use a tune-up anyway. if your compression is good then i'd bet that your valve seals are leaking/cracked/missing. It may just need some new valve seals which doesn't require you to remove the cyl heads and can save the $$ on headgaskets. another thing to consider with that many miles on it are deposits in the combustion chamber or on the back sides of the valves and intake. If your engine is mechanically ok then i'd use that one and save a bunch of $$. BTW, I am a Chrysler/dodge/jeep/plymouth/renault/nissan tech and work on everything else also.

 

[Biker Dude]

It's too bad you don't live nearby, I have a nice TBI 350 in a 91 RX-7 I would sell for $500. I do agree that replacing an engine is way cheaper than buying a new truck and it sounds like the rest of the drivetrain is in good shape. I would replace the engine if it needed it.

 

[Backwood]

If you didn't want to re-do it yourself, make sure to check prices on GM crate engines too. Long blocks are cheap, and last I checked they carried a 3 yr/50,000mi warranty.

.

The good thing about the GM crate motor, its a GM shop in most every city you go to for warranty work. jasper engines dont have that.

I put a GM crate engine and crate transmission in my truck. Paid 1250 for motor and seems like the trans was 1200? I checked with a couple different GM dealers and some wanted 1700 for motor so look around. So for 4 or 5 months worth of payments I am good for years again ( actually been a couple years already )
My truck also has more sentimental value than resale value so I will probably do it again in 15 years

 

[fishercat]

those are great trucks!

i'd replace the engine.i think Jasper is way overpriced.i have had issues with them as well.

you may find a good used one here:

www.car-part.com

 

[Dad]

If you're mechanical, why not rebuild the engine yourself? Provided your block isn't too whipped out to be bored. I did one for a friend (a 94 in fact). I got hypereutectic pistons which were flat tops to bump the compression up a bit, installed a larger cam - pretty much the standard "RV" profile which is about one step up from stock, and put on headers with 3" duals and v-force mufflers, and of course got the crank turned and installed reman-ed heads, dbl roller timing chain, hv oil pump, etc. We also replaced the manifold temp sensor and oxygen sensors and some misc. other stuff like new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, hoses, belt, etc. Total investment for everything (including the exhaust) was under $1500 and I knew exactly what I had. The thing ran very well and had lots of power-way more than stock. It was very relaible until he sold it a couple years later to buy a brand new truck. We figured this route was better than a re-man long block b/c we knew exactly what we had and that everything was put together right. Plus, we had a more powerful engine.

If you didn't want to re-do it yourself, make sure to check prices on GM crate engines too. Long blocks are cheap, and last I checked they carried a 3 yr/50,000mi warranty.

Another option would be an upgrade to a Vortec engine, as there are thousands of these trucks out there, but you're taking a gamble buying used as was mentioned before.

Don't be intimidated on doing the work yourself. If you don't you will be paying a small fortune in labor for a job like this, even just having someone replace the engine. Get a haynes manual and take your time and go to it. If you can turn a wrench and read you can do it! These trucks are very simple to work on.

I'm with him, rebuild it. that way you know what you have and it's the original motor ( if that matters)

You can drop a jasper in, you could drop a crate motor in, but if you rebuild it yourself you can add a few mods to enhance the performance- like performance camshaft, HV oil pump- stronger timing chain and gears.
You can build it like your going to keep it!



Dad ( The newbie)

 

[KsWoodsMan]

The trucks a 94,it isnt a vortec .Its TBI,the regulator is in the throttle body.

Maul ratt, before you pull the plugs,pull the pvc valve out of the valve cover with it running,it should suck your fingertip right up against it,if it isnt sucking at all,you found a portion of your problem.With a plugged pcv system,you will burn oil,could pressuize your crankcase some,and it will not run correctly.It takes less time than pulling one plug.

Then trying to split the upper intake wouldn't be a good idea. Thanks for pointing that out to me. I must have had someting different in mind at the moment.

 

[SWI Don]

Just checked on sdparts.com and the crate engine is 1800-1900 with 3yr/100,000 yes 100,000 mile warrenty. It is a long block minus intake, water pump, distributor, manifolds etc. It is a new engine.

Scroggin ####ey usually has pretty good prices on crate engines but like said above I would look around. You will have a shipping vs sales tax trade off possibly.

Don

 

[streeter]

I'll get under the hood tomorrow and pull the plugs. I brought it in for a full tune up a couple years ago, which was about 60,000 miles.


Thanks for the advice so far.

If you need plugs do NOT use bosch or champion. Happy hunting Maul ratt.

 

[boostnut]

I'll jump in with my 2 cents based on the title of your post first.

Old truck vs. new truck......I assume you own the truck outright and have no monthly payments...so if you buy a new truck, the payments, plus required full coverage insurance, will undoubtedly be over $600 a month.

A "new" engine or rebuilt or junkyard, could easily be $5000 if you don't do it yourself. ....but... that "huge chunk of change" is barely 8 months of payments on a new truck, and you'd still owe another 52 months before paying off the new one!!!

Clearly, continuing the lifespan of something you already own if much more advantageous than starting something now.....unless you've got one of those "posessed vehicles" that suck up a grand in repairs every other month until eternity.

As far as diagnosing whether or not you actually need a new engine...well, I won't go there....because if there is something simple causing everything (EXCEPT oil consumption which can only be base engine) than you don't need an engine, and online diagnosis is worse than over-the-phone-diagnosis, which is worse than driveway-diagnosis.

Ford/Lincoln/Mercury technician's advice.

Wow, $5000??? What the he!! is your labor rate? I'm having a 96 Z71 done right now for just under $3000. New longblock from a local gm stealorship + installation by one of the dealors certified mechanics that likes to work for cash on the side. Even the dealorships quote was almost 20% less than 5 grand. Expensive to live in Cali i guess.

 

[whiting-5]

gm crate motor only way i go.

 

[brisawyer]

I would get another engine to rebuild at my liesure then swap. Or find a good honest local machine shop to build/buy one from. You are gonna need the good machine shop anyway if you do the rebuild.

 

[Zodiac45]

Its got over 300k miles....a tune up would be good, but hey...300k. If you have the money and like the truck, put in a new motor. And spend the money on tune up parts on the new motor. Cause at that mileage, its a ticking time bomb anyway. It could last ten more years, and maybe ten more minutes. About 1750 for longblock. 100 for plugs and wires and pcv. +gaskets and such. MAybe a new front seal in the trans. Prob motor mounts will need replacing too. You'll easily have 2500+ in the parts alone. And then the transmission is on its last leg too. So factor that into your decision also.

I have too agree. With that mileage your gonna be throwing parts at it eventually or already have? I'm a advocate of keeping a truck for as long as I can (Still have my 86' Ranger sitting outside with plow at the ready) but, there comes a point of diminishing returns and more important, will it pass inspection? At that type mileage, I might start looking around. Good Luck

 

[urhstry]

What if you found a boneyard engine with VERY low miles and a warranty? That might fit the bill. Check the nationwide parts sites.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

At the end of the day, if you REALLY want to keep this truck, then rebuild it all.... ....but, good used full-size 4WD are a dime a dozen and cheep now too.

 

[thejdman04]

I would carefully look at the warrenty. I had purchased a gopher motor, from napa for a car years back. They wouldnt warranty it because I installed it (though how my installation of putting the motor in could have caused a connecting rod to come loose? when I didnt touch the motors internals). Also if they would have warrentied it, they only paid 40 bucks an hour book time. Try finding a shop even a few years ago to work for that.

 

[cityevader]

If you need plugs do NOT use bosch or champion. Happy hunting Maul ratt.

+1
I've found the most issues with Autolites primarily, with Bosch and Champion tied for second place...This being in Fords.

 

[savageactor7]

A quart of oil a week is nothing to a working truck...just stay on top of it. When the engine goes just throw in a tested used engine.

New truck payments will be 4 something a month...start putting away half that amount into a truck slush fund. By the time that engine goes you'll have cash money for a replacement engine ...plus.

 

[Coldfront]

I know payments are the devil, but the rest of the truck is probably also getting old, trans., rear ends, trucks are a dime a dozen right now and dealers can't give them away. You can buy a 2004 1/2 ton, club cab, 4x4, with a v8 motor with around 75,000 miles on it for about $11,000 or less, if you shop around. Believe me I have been on the repair marry go round before, it's nice to have something you don't have to work on all the time. If you start nickle and dime'ing, engine, trans. rear ends, brake calipers, rotor, rusted brake lines, ball joints, u joints, tie rod ends, it goes on never ending and after you spend all that money you still have an old truck with no value. Something to think about.

 

[Tazman1602]

I welcome the advice from those with automotive knowledge. I am the original owner of a 1994 Chevy Z-71 4x4 with over 350,000 miles. I take good care of the truck and want to keep it for sentimental reasons. The gas mileage is horrible now, like 10mpg and the engine idles and runs a little rough. The engine goes through about a quart of oil a week, yet it does not smoke.
The rest of the truck is in good shape and is great for hauling firewood in a trailer.

Should I get a decent used 5.7L engine or have something done to the original engine? I'm looking for "the best bang for the buck". I hoping for the truck to last another 3-4 years or so. Thanks for any help or advice out there.

Goodwrench crate motor all the way man. You know how the trucks been maintained and you won't get that with a used vehicle...........