Carb Cleaning Question

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Ambull01

Ambull01

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This is starting to piss me off lol. Made one cut with it and pulled the spark plug to check it. I'm not sure what I was supposed to look at but I don't think I saw the preferred light brown color. I may boycott HD from now on.
 
nmurph

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Don't use plug color to judge a saws condition. It shows a cumulative view of the saw's run time since the plug was installed.

You need to get the limiters trimmed so you can tune the saw correctly. You may not be aware but these Dolmars have a limiter that sounds similar to the desired four stroking at WOT.
 
Ambull01

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Don't use plug color to judge a saws condition. It shows a cumulative view of the saw's run time since the plug was installed.

You need to get the limiters trimmed so you can tune the saw correctly. You may not be aware but these Dolmars have a limiter that sounds similar to the desired four stroking at WOT.

I think I need a tool to read the rpm. Just when I started to think a chainsaw is a fairly uncomplicated machine it throws me into a loop with a out of whack carb setting. Looks like I can just slice the limiter off. I'll try and tune it with the Madsen website then research why my chain is bone dry despite topping off the oil reservoir.
 
Ambull01

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Okay, think I figured out the solution for the now chain oil issue. Take bar off and start the saw to see if oil is being pumped out. If it is, then the issue is with the bar. If it's not coming out of the saw, then possibly drain oil out and clean/run the saw with some type of cleaning solution. Don't think I'll need to go this route as oil is gumming up on the saw's body so seems like the pump is working. Or pump/hose/something else may be partially clogged so the oil output is reduced. That's my SWAG anyway.
 
Ambull01

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All righty. It was the Husqvarna Bar Oil. Super, super thick. Just like coldish maple pancake syrup. I dumped it out and returned the rest to Ace Hardware and exchange it for their brand. Everything's good now, just have to sharpen the chain since the lack of oil dulled it quick.

All that' left is cutting of the limiter tab and tuning. Thanks for the help gentlemen
 
Ambull01

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I believe those carbs set at 1-1/8 from lightly seated on the H and 1 turn out from seated on the L. I have had a boatload of these saws and they tune very well for me at these settings.

Check your PM's

Wait a minute, not dumbed down enough for Ambull lol. For the H jet, seated as in limiter removed seated or with limiter seated?
 
Ambull01

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Still doing National Guard training so having issues searching the site on my phone. Tried to remove the carb again last night to trim the limiter tabs in my barracks room. Removed the fuel line and the other line (don't remember what it's called). The other line shot fuel out and sprayed all over me! How do you guys release the pressure from the other line before removing carb?

Ran the saw in some rounds. Cuts great and real smooth, especially compared to my Homelite. Noticed it may have chipper chain so new semi chisel, trimming the limiters, and adjusting for four stroke should be the final steps.
 
Andyshine77
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Still doing National Guard training so having issues searching the site on my phone. Tried to remove the carb again last night to trim the limiter tabs in my barracks room. Removed the fuel line and the other line (don't remember what it's called). The other line shot fuel out and sprayed all over me! How do you guys release the pressure from the other line before removing carb?

Ran the saw in some rounds. Cuts great and real smooth, especially compared to my Homelite. Noticed it may have chipper chain so new semi chisel, trimming the limiters, and adjusting for four stroke should be the final steps.

Well emptying the fuel tank before you pull the fuel line off the carb usually does the trick.

The other line that attaches to the base of the cylinder is the impulse line, no fuel will come out of that one.
 
Ambull01

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I may be mixing up the lines. Googled impulse line and read it is just to pump fuel into the carb. Figured the bigger hose was the impulse but it has to be the smaller one closest to the cylinder. Guess I'll dump the fuel and run it until it dies to get rid of all the mix
 
Ambull01

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Well emptying the fuel tank before you pull the fuel line off the carb usually does the trick.

The other line that attaches to the base of the cylinder is the impulse line, no fuel will come out of that one.

Yep, you're right. Emptying the tank and running the saw until shut down worked lol. I need to use my brain more.

Trimming the limiter tabs off tomorrow morning. Then setting carb to nmurph's recommendation. Should be all set. Thanks everyone for the help. It's time for this mechanically challenged dude to stop sweating the small stuff and focus on firewood cutting, splitting, stacking, etc.
 
Ambull01

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Try mean green in a ultasonic for a half hr or so and see what it takes off wont harm the plastic


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Thanks. Put a gal of fuel mix through the saw already. Runs great. I may buy one of those ultrasound cleaners after reading on this site how cheap they are/can be.
 
Ambull01

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The hf one is great to start with but after awhile youll go up to the bigger more robust models


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Will that model last? I can't be upgrading/collecting everything lol. I just want one chain sharpening method/hardware, maybe 2-3 saws, one splitting tool, one ultrasound cleaner, etc.
 
glock37

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The hf will work for light use

Cover the key pad with clear tape to keep cleaer out of unit

The bigger ones u can get on ebay for around 275 they go up to 99.99 min and have a sep heat control They are made of stainless and hold a 880 case


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Ambull01

Ambull01

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The hf will work for light use

Cover the key pad with clear tape to keep cleaer out of unit

The bigger ones u can get on ebay for around 275 they go up to 99.99 min and have a sep heat control They are made of stainless and hold a 880 case


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, not real sure what an 880 is. I'm assuming it's a saw? You put a whole saw in it!? I just want something that will clean out carbs.
 

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