central boiler slab

[maytagman]

For you guys with a central boiler. Is it really necessary to leave the notch in the cement slab for the lines to come up thru, or can you bring the line up and pour right around it? I don't really see the need to leave the notch in the slab, I figured it was so you could run the line after you pour the slab if you want. My line will run under the slab anyway so I don't see why I can't just bring it up and cement right around it.

 

[rx7145]

You don't need the notch. I have it and it is a pain.

 

[cunrya]

notch isn't necessary but what a pita if you decide to add on later and don't have it. Takes 10 minutes to form up

 

[bowtechmadman]

I just poured around a coffee can.

 

[beerman6]

I formed the notch and poured...The only problem with it is weed whipping around the pipes and thats really no big deal.

 

[maytagman]

OK, I am just going to pour around it, I really couldn't see why it needed to be there. That is unless you guys tell me different before wednesday morning!

 

[windthrown]

Yah, I did the notch thing in the slab for the CB. Took 3 cut boards. It made it easy to use sweep 90 degree PVC pipes to run the power supply in under the slab, and gave me more room to run the PEX in insulated drain pipe straight down and into the ground to run to the house.

Overall though, I would say it did not make that big a difference. I could have made is shallower and narrower, and I could have just poured a flat slab and run the PVC over the slab and drilled a hole to run the PVC into the skirt of the boiler rather than from under it; the CB is raised up on steel rails at the base. Lots of room down there. You could also run a sweep 90 in pvc and pour the slab over with it in place. Avoid heaving by putting a good gravel base down.

Anyway, it looks cleaner with the notched slab. Not that anyone will ever notice it on the one that I installed though.

 

[Jon E]

I did the notch for my CB 5648 and the only thing I have issue with is that it's a great place for critters, mostly mice, to get in and make nests under the boiler and eat the insulation. The heat doesn't seem to bother them.

If I were to do it over, I'd pour a solid slab with sleeves for the CB pipe and the electrical condiut, and I'd somehow raise the whole unit up 8-12" with a block wall or a depression in front of the unit - it's too low.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Just make sure you get your lines aligned properly within the "notch"...What a PITA it is trying to bend 1" PEX around for the tie-ins!

 

[Mister Twister]

I went with the notch then installed the unit. Then I did not like the opening so I put a form over the outside and poured it full so it looks nice and even. I guess the good part is if I ever did want to modify things it would probably be easier to bust it out because it was seperate pours. And it looks a lot better filled in I think. The extra room of the notch was handy during the install so the pipes could move around. That thermopex is like wrestling Hulk Hogan ! ! ! Good luck...

 

[windthrown]

You do not need to buy spendy ThermoPex. I bought 4 inch solid corrigated drain pipe, red and blue pex line, and pipe insulation. I ran the PEX inside the insulation and ran that into the drain pipe. Not hard to do, and it was less than half the price of ThermoPex. It also remains more flexible. All you really have to do is keep the PEX lines dry and away from contacting ground water; that's where 90% of the heat loss is going to be. The insulation will keep the pex away from the sides of the drain pipe, and add a few R values of insulation (which is not much). Bury that sucker deep and the ground will do the majority of the insulating.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Another tip: heat gun works wonders when bending PEX.