Central Boiler Temperature too high on furance

[ktm rider]

You have an air leak....

After the first call you dealer should have been out to solve your problem not just giving you lip service on the phone.

Mark

I agree, You have to have an air leak somewhere. I would say either the gasket around the door or ash pan door ( if that particular OWB has one)
OR, the solenoid is NOT working properly. Either way you are getting unwanted air in there somewhere.

Why not just trun down your aquastat a bit and see what happens? I would say 165 or so should still easily heat the house but make it a bit tougher for the water to boil...

 

[JAL]

I had the same symptoms as you do with my CB. The OWB was overheating and steaming. The problems I found were that the circulator pump on the boiler was shutting down on thermo overload off and on and the damper flapper was not sealing properly on the door draft opening. I replaced the pump which helped somewhat. I replaced the metal damper flapper and that fixed the problems that I was having.
The damper flapper needs to be properly adjusted to seat against the door draft opening. There are two screws that mount the damper flapper to the door and elongated holes on the damper flapper mounting bracket so that there is a little "Wiggle room" in order to get a good air tight seal of the damper flapper. I adjusted mine at night by opening the door and shining a flashlight on the outside of the door and looking from the inside for air gaps.
I also had to take a file and level out the door draft opening so that the damper flapper would seal better.

On a side note: my dealer is also a :censored::censored: and a :censored:when it comes to after sales service.
CB needs to do something about these dealers.

 

[LadyToysDream]

This is the extra spring we found out.

 

[LadyToysDream]

Well the dealer just left.

No parts needed.
He adjusted the door but only a little. So now it does take 2 hands to close it. Said he thought there was a small piece of creosote caught in the damper.
One of those things that was easier to show someone than try to explain it over the phone.

And had hubby let the wire loose, that holds the vent cap in place.
It was steaming away while he was here. Had me turn heat up in the house. Went from 78 to 82 on the thermostat to draw off some heat.
It's still up there in temperature but should come back down on it's own.
Hopefully our problem is solved.
Set the temperature to 180 instead of the 185.

I think he is selling the business after doing it about 14 yrs, so he can retire.
I think it has got a bit too big for him to handle. And his son who helps him, does not seem to want the responsibility of all of it on his own. So someone else must be trying to buy it now.

Hubby asked what we owed and he said no charge.
Thank goodness.

 

[November Wolf]

Did you find out what the deal is with that spring?

Hopefully you have the problem solved. Good luck.

 

[LadyToysDream]

The spring is supposed to be a spare one. That's where the factory hung it. There is also a spare fuse tucked in that area.
It sure looked odd when hubby opened that outside part of the damper.

Also the dealer mentioned that we might be getting a bit of a back draft through the chimney. We had a wicked cold wind this morning out of the north. It would not happen all the time but every once in awhile.

And to pull the wood real close to the door. REAL CLOSE he says.

( The furnace was steaming this morning again. I waited till 9 am to call the dealer. And he said to give him a hour and he would be here. It was at 209 when he got here, so he got to see it misbehaving )

 

[November Wolf]

I Just took mine apart for the fun of it and mine did not have that spare spring on it. But I can see that having an extra spring would come in handy. I think I am going to get me some spare parts for mine just in case I may need something down the road.

Let us know how your OWB is working after a few days.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Don't have a spring on mine at all...does the IPL show one? I replaced my solenoid ($35 from local hdwe./elec. supply) yesterday...been having intermittent problems with it sticking open, scraped some creo. from the damper and door.A real strong fire, even when door is closed, can "overpower" and ramp the temp. too high, especially with a light load. Weather is going to be warm here most of the week, don't need 185 deg. water..backing down to 170.

 

[LadyToysDream]

mtfallsmikey, hi , what is a IPL ?
A few posts prior to this, I showed a picture of the damper door from the outside view with the shield off. It sure looked odd with the spare spring hanging there. In a little hole that was drilled out to hang it from. So at first glance looked like it was supposed to be hooked up to something but wasn't.
Also the dealer said there was a extra fuse there, but I did not see it myself as he was standing in front of the door. I just took note in my head, that yes there was a spare part and where it was to be found if needed. And or maybe he meant the fuse was in the plastic bag that held our bookwork on this furnace.
Which is where I think I saw it.
Which sometime this morning, I think I will double check that bag. It would be our luck to need the fuse, and I would have a fun time chasing it down.
The dealer did say that the door should be kept clean. If creosote does build it, it should be scraped off. We did have a little creosote run down the outside part of the front because the door had the air leak on the side where the handle is. Now that I think back on this, when his son brought the furnace here, he never checked the door to make sure it was closing correctly. Which in our case, it wasn't. It does take 2 hands to finish the closing of the latch.
Which we had no way of knowing what was correct or not correct, because this is our first year with this furnace.
I am trying to think of date of manufacture of this furnace. Probably the factory would tell me from the serial number. When we started looking at furnaces in May of last year, this one was on the dealer's lot. Someone had wanted it, but had not put any money down on it. We ended up with it because the dealer was getting ready to order another load of furnaces and said that guy could have one off the new order. My guess is this furance was made in the spring of 08. Now my curiousity is up and sometime this morning, I think I will call the factory and get the manufacture date if at all possible.

NOVEMBER WOLF, hi,
I can come back to the thread in a few days and update , yes

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Illustrated
Parts
List

 

[LadyToysDream]

IPL number is 6869 for a CL 4030, CL 5036, or SCL 5036 models.
Info in our book is located on pg 38-39, section 6, general information in the manual. The part arrow is pointing to the space where the spring is. Not sure if the spring is another number or not. Or if that area is all one part number.

I am waiting on a call back from the factory to get the date of manufacture on our unit.

 

[blakey]

My Central Boiler has the date of manufacture stamped on the tag on the front of the unit.

 

[Jon E]

My CB5648 steams off every once in a while, and it's always because the solenoid and damper door has some crud built up on it and causes the damper door to stick open. The first time I figured it out, I had noticed the steam and the temperature at 211/212 degrees, and opened the door. As soon as I pulled the handle, I heard a 'clank' from the door. After it happened the second time, I looked through the damper baffle before I touched the door and I could see right into the firebox. I smacked the door while looking and watched the damper drop off the solenoid and go 'clank'. A bit of cleaning, and a generous amount of lubricant and it has been fine most of the winter.

I also have learned that in warmer weather, it's best to keep the set temperature low. I keep mine at 180 during the dead of winter, but now that we are getting some daytime temeratures in the 40's, I will probably drop it to 172-174 until spring, and then about 165 for the summer. If the temperature set point is too high in warm weather, it will steam off just from residual heat. I burn all year for domestic hot water, so I try to optimize my burn cycles even when it's hot out.

 

[LadyToysDream]

blakey, thanks
Found the date of manufacture on front of furnace. May 2008

Jon E ,
I think the hubby wants the furnace to run year round. He really likes the hot water part of it.....it's nice. I can run load of wash in hot water, do the dishes, and he can still take a bath or shower and all of this within a short period of time. No worrying what the other one is doing with the hot water.

 

[LadyToysDream]

Hi

I found this old thread of mine while doing a search for furnace door problem.
So bringing the info up to date, and with a new problem.

Not sure when without looking up dates, but we had to have a guy come out
and help us with the door awhile back. We did get a new gasket for it.
It worked fine all last winter.

So we fired up the furnace part way through Steptember and things were
going along smooth. Till late afternoon today, when he comes in and tells
me the newest problem with the door. The handle is loose. And where
the screw threads into the door frame, it appears to be stripped. So now the door won't stay latched. I will be calling the factory in the morning to see
about getting a new door. Supposed to be a 25 year warranty on this unit.
It better cover a new door. Where the latch attaches to the door, it is part of the door housing. All one piece, so the whole door itself has to be replaced.

So has anyone else had this problem with this brand of furnace and has
the factory made good on the warranty ?

Thanks

 

[xrayman]

I had to have my door replaced on my CB due to a crack, they sent me a new door with a return ticket for the old one, new door came with all the parts so i took the sylinoid off the old one for a spare.

 

[LadyToysDream]

Thanks

How old was your unit when you had the door replaced ?
Did they need a picture of it first ?

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Only thing I've had to replace was the door solenoid, do a search, there is an aftermarket solenoid available. Also, I believe the temp. cpntroller/display module is made/available from Dwyer (??)