Central Boiler vs Wood Master

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I haven't had to add to mine at all this year, talked to a guy that lives in the same area as me and he adds a couple of gallons a month? Same OWB as I have.
 
My CB dealer said about 5 gallons a year is nothing to worry about, said usually at the beginning of the burning season and that's from checking the water level every day like they say to...when you purge out the water level sight glass (so it doesn't freeze) you drip out a few onces.
 
I top my Central Boiler up with soft water every 2 or 3 yrs, doesn't take much. I don't have a forced draft either, works very well without and less to wear out in my opinion. I am very happy with this unit, this is my 8th winter with it and it has been virtually trouble free. I have the 5648 mild steel model which is rated at 500,000 btu and has a dry weight of approx 2200 lbs. I am heating a 5 bedroom brick farmhouse with moderate insulation, domestic hot water also a 15'x30' shop when I am out there. I do have to remove the ashes with a shovel but it is not a big deal.
 
I have not had to add any to mine either nor has a friend of mine. The only one I have heard of that you add water to all the time is the shavers.
 
I looked at both....

...and bought the Central Boiler.

The CB seemed a little simpler. Forced draft is just another component to fail someday, and I've never needed it.

I also liked the idea of the higher water capacity, because it gives more reserve heat capacity if the fire gets low.

Foam insulation sheds water in case of overfill and has more R value.

I didn't like how the WoodMaster vented smoke directly out of the highest point of the fire chamber. That's also where the most heat is. I like the big baffle in the CB. More heat is pulled out before the smoke is vented.
 
You should really check out heatmor before you buy.

Non of the systems your looking at have the features you will most need over the long haul

1. Expansion balder.... eliminates the need to add water and you wont be continually adding hard untreated water to your system.

2. Open bottom fire box heatmor uses sand under the fire to temporally absorb moisture from the wood the is given off during off cycles. This will greatly extend stove life.

4.Stainless Stainless Stainless...Not 304 but 409!

Mark

Not a heatmor dealer

:agree2: and you forgot to add the ash auger that is much easier than shoveling the ashes out ;)
 
CB Ash

It really isn't a bother to shovel out ash once a month. I too enjoy the simplicity of the natural draft. It has only 1 moving part, the damper solenoid. I have a brand new one in the box in reserve ($25). I also have the controller unit (from Dwyer Instruments $55). With my luck these will only fail on a Sunday in February in a blizzard....that's just the way things happen. The bottom line is if you like your brand, you are happy, and it works for you. I never looked at any other brand other than CB so I cannot speak for or against other brands. :cheers: to the OWB brotherhood!
 
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It really isn't a bother to shovel out ash once a month. I too enjoy the simplicity of the natural draft. It has only 1 moving part, the damper solenoid. I have a brand new one in the box in reserve ($25). I also have the controller unit (from Dwyer Instruments $55). With my luck these will only fail on a Sunday in February in a blizzard....that's just the way things happen. The bottom line is if you like your brand, you are happy, and it works for you. I never looked at any other brand other than CB so I cannot speak for or against other brands. :cheers: to the OWB brotherhood!

:cheers: to that my friend! I have had to add water to mine only because of boil over. A few times last year I had a piece of coal get stuck in the damper and it boiled over, but other than that I lose no water.

I am only heating 1100 sq ft but VERY inefficient single wide mobile home (realestate talk for trailer) and I see no need for a forced draft for my needs. The people that have it wouldn't want to be without it so to each his own. I agree with Scootermsp in keeping it as simple as possible with as few things to malfunction as possible.

Kyle
 
Central Boiler all the way!!!! I'm on year #4 with my 5648 and no problems other than a damper soleniod (It's an electrical part..one never knows when they're gonna **** the bed). NO fan forced draft, don't need it! I'm a firm believer that the fan forced draft blows the heat out of the boiler. Gotta shovel the ashes out...big deal. Open the door and load it, the old set it and forget it! Grates, augers, blower fans.... To many moving parts and stuff to burn out for me!

Too bad they did'nt let you test drive all these different units! :D
 
Central Boiler all the way!!!! I'm on year #4 with my 5648 and no problems other than a damper soleniod (It's an electrical part..one never knows when they're gonna **** the bed). NO fan forced draft, don't need it! I'm a firm believer that the fan forced draft blows the heat out of the boiler. Gotta shovel the ashes out...big deal. Open the door and load it, the old set it and forget it! Grates, augers, blower fans.... To many moving parts and stuff to burn out for me!

Too bad they did'nt let you test drive all these different units! :D

:agree2:

Shoveled ash out today, no big deal, no unbearable heat, on big mess, 1 galvanized can with lid.

LT...:cheers:

PS I love my CB !!!
 
Obviously you will not get the most un-biased review on a public forum. Everyone for the most part agrees they have bought the better mouse trap. There are many more than just 2 that are good. You are just lucky to have it narrowed down to just 2. If you can see them in person and running that would be a better way to decide. Which one has the better dealer? This also plays a big part in deciding. This thread will go round and round beating it into the ground why one is better than the other, that's my guess anyway.

By the way is the best truck Ford, Chevy, or Dodge????:dizzy:
 
Obviously you will not get the most un-biased review on a public forum. Everyone for the most part agrees they have bought the better mouse trap. There are many more than just 2 that are good. You are just lucky to have it narrowed down to just 2. If you can see them in person and running that would be a better way to decide. Which one has the better dealer? This also plays a big part in deciding. This thread will go round and round beating it into the ground why one is better than the other, that's my guess anyway.

By the way is the best truck Ford, Chevy, or Dodge????:dizzy:

CHEVY
How's that for un-biased? :hmm3grin2orange:

They're all good when they work.... and they're all junk when they don't! I agree a knowledgeable, helpfull, and honest dealer is a big factor in deciding. Find a dealer that has one running at his own shop or home for a first hand look see.
For the record I am in no way shape or form bashing another boiler manufacturer... there are alot of good ones out there, just givin up some personal experience with the one I own.
There's alot of guys out there that will tell you their unit is the best thing since sliced bread, but fail to leave out minor details and be truthfull bout the problems and amount of wood they burn in fear of looking like a fool for the purchase they made. :cheers:
 
I've owned a woodmaster boiler that was a wood burner for 10 years the tank rotted out because of insulation getting wet from leak around the vent pipe. that was the only trouble i had with it . I now have a woodmaster 900 corn burner and woodmaster has failed big time on this stove it isn't worth the metal it was made out of. I've look at central boilers they have alot of good ideas spray on insulation won't soak water in to it . they are better protected against mice getting into them. The simpler they are the better they are. You need a low water light, water temp read out and you do need a blower motor if you think its going to blow the heat out of it ,it's designed wrong
 
It's not designed wrong, it is just designed to run without a blower. CBs don't need them, except for the largest model.

Kyle
 
New Hampshire passed the epa phase emission crap so do the cb boiler or wood master meet the specs?
 
It's not designed wrong, it is just designed to run without a blower. CBs don't need them, except for the largest model.

Kyle

The reason for a fan is to bring the unit up to a clean burn faster. A CB will smoke for a lot longer when the unit first kicks on than a WM for the simple reason that it takes longer to get the fire going again. Only a big deal if you have close neighbors.

A unit without a fan will use less electricity and has fewer parts to break. The fan motors are not that expensive however
 
I have a CB CL40 which is now a 6048.Had it since 1995.Absolutely no problems with it.I clean it right out in the spring and give it a spray with old motor oil.My chimney is still solid except for the insulated flashing which is no big deal.I will have to replace the underground piping since I have the old style blue foam duct taped around the pipe.It is 18" down and still melts all the snow on top of the ground.But the furnace is great.I heat 2600 sq ft with have of that being 22' cathedral ceilings so I am closer to 4000 sq ft.I also heat my hot water with it.I use about 9 cord of mixed pine and poplar with very little real hardwood.It takes me 3 full weekends in October to get ready.I figure I am saving about $3k per year on heat bills.I have no other backup except more wood.I never installed oil or gas furnace when i built my house.So as you can see I am full wood all the time.Very happy with the furnace overall.
 
I have a WM dealer very close to me, so thats what I choose. I know several people within 5 miles of me that run WM. Brothers is 7 yrs old without a issue. His neighbors CB is at least 10 yrs with no issues.
Both are great units. You will be happy with either one.
 
Cb5036

I have a CB5036, heat 3700sf with a 17' high ceiling in one room and 10 1/2ft ceilings on first floor (lots of dead space to heat). Went from $5000/season in LP to $0. Averaging 10 cords/season I think (tough to estimate since I always end up scavenging during the winter).

Go forced draft - it is cheap but I believe gives me a better burn cycle, especially with less well seasoned wood. The smoke clears a lot earlier in the cycle with the forced draft.

A good dealer that knows to stock spare parts for the serviceable items should be a big factor in the decision. My CB dealer keeps spares and even has some friends in a nearby town serve as an alternate point of supply for those parts.
 
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