Chain/bar design question

[xwray]

I understand what makes a chain a low kickback design but I don't know what makes a bar a low kickback design...can anyone explain this to me?

From both a safety and a performance perspective:

What happens if you use a low kb chain on a non low kickback bar?

How about a non low kb chain on a low kb bar?

All feedback is appreciated

 

[OilHead]

The only thing I can think of that would qualify a bar as being low kickback would be the addition of a nose guard around the tip area.

 

[2dogs]

I believe a bar is called low kickback only with certain chains. I don't think a bar can be low kickback on its own. I used to think the nose radius would determine if a bar is low kickback but I have a Stihl ES with a very narrow nose that is not a low kickback bar. It has yellow marks.

In general though the larger the nose the greater the kickback risk. IMO.

 

[clearance]

Said it here before, safety chain, bars, whatever, is not an excuse for not using a saw properly. Learn how to use the saw right and you will not get hurt by a kickback, no matter the chain or saw. Say out of the bite!

 

[Ed*L]

Low kickback bars have a smaller nose radius.

The Stihl rollomatic E standard is low kickback. The rollomatic ES super & duromatic aren't.

Ed

 

[2dogs]

Low kickback bars have a smaller nose radius.

The Stihl rollomatic E standard is low kickback. The rollomatic ES super & duromatic aren't.

Ed

Not true. Nose diameter is not the only criteria though it goes play into the equation.

 

[ray benson]

Check this webpage - it gives you some info on chainsaw safety devices. Do some reading on kickback - know how and why it occurs and how to prevent or minimize it. Most operator manuals give a decent explanation.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/sections/preamble/chainbrakes_preamble.html

 

[xwray]

Said it here before, safety chain, bars, whatever, is not an excuse for not using a saw properly. Learn how to use the saw right and you will not get hurt by a kickback, no matter the chain or saw. Say out of the bite!

No argument here.

However, I didn't ask the question from that perspective. I am simply curious about something I don't understand. If I can get a better understanding regarding what is essentially a question regarding the mechanics of a chain/bar/match/mismatch I will be better prepared to make intelligent decisions regarding this subject. I'm not concerned about kickback, I just want to to understand the mechanics of it, not from the perspective of where to place or not place the upper front quadrant of the bar, but from the perspective of the parameters at play with bar type/chain type interaction. Does not a better understanding in fact make one more knowledgable and therefor better able to use a saw properly. How would one learn to use a saw (or anything) right without uderstanding as much as possible about the subject...how does one gain that understanding without asking questions? I for one choose not to be fat, dumb, and happy when using a dangerous tool. Knowing the negatives aids in understanding the positives, at least that's the way my brain works.

thanks

 

[Ed*L]

Not true. Nose diameter is not the only criteria though it goes play into the equation.

So what is not true? I never said it was the ONLY criteria.

Ed

 

[xwray]

Check this webpage - it gives you some info on chainsaw safety devices. Do some reading on kickback - know how and why it occurs and how to prevent or minimize it. Most operator manuals give a decent explanation.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/sections/preamble/chainbrakes_preamble.html

Thanks this helped a lot but there was a confusing point...from the article:

"Finally, the potential for kickback can be reduced by the "low- or reduced-kickback chain". This chain is commonly referred to as new generation chain. Low kickback chain can be identified by an idler or spacer link between each of the cutting links. In other words, the chain has a left hand cutter link on the right side of the chain, followed by a spacer link, followed by a right hand cutter link on the left side of the chain followed by another spacer link before the sequence begins again."

When I read this I thought, OK, makes sense. But, when I looked at the Stihl catalog I see where it doesn't hold entirely true since there are some non-low kickback chains that follow the same layout so there's obviously more to this than meets the eye.

 

[ray benson]

They do make skip chain and semi skip chain for experienced users.

 

[memetic]

I don't know about the chains, bars, and nose guards, but I prefer a brake myself - as the link ray benson posted makes clear.

All of my power tools like circular saws and my Makita 12-Inch Dual Bevel Compound Sliding Miter Saw have brakes. IMHO it is the way to go. I know this doesn't answer your question, but if you are concerned about safety...

 

[techdave]

Safety bars and safety chains

Howdy all, as fara safety bars, the bar nose radius is the only factor I can think of. The gent who says it is not the only factor (not counting silly tip guards), please elaborate.

By having a smaller nose radius there is less area of the bar in the upward and downward kickback areas. Upward is usually the one people are worried about. (Ha ha, all you all know there is such a thing as a dangerous DOWNWARD reaction too, right?) Push and pull can be dangerous too, if for no reason other than they can cause an: off balance--fall--cut yourself sequence.

As for the chain, its not wether or not it skips a tooth, it is the presence or absence of a guard link on the non-cutter teeth, and the tooth profile itself.

if you email them, oregon will mail you a booklet that explains chains very well.

HTH , Dave.