Chain file selection, sharpening advise

[trickytune]

Hey all I have been looking at this site for a long time but this is my first post. I may find the answer with a search but I don't feel I have yet.

My saw is a MS170 with a 3/8LP chain .050". The recommended file for this saw was 5/32 or 4mm and I bought the sharpening kit from the shop with the saw. I changed the bar from one with the .043 groove to .050 to allow better choice of chains. When I use the file holder / angle gauge it nicely sharpens the top of the cutter but does not touch the side of the cutter. If I take it out of the holder it allows the file to drop down maybe and it then sharpens the side as well. What is the correct thing to do? Use the next size smaller file? Sharpen in the holder then do the sides freehand? This chain I think is a GB from Australia.

 

[HarleyT]

Since chain cutters vary, I always like to chose a file by holding it up to the chain, and looking at the angle it
will make on the tooth, if I have a choice in sizes.


On a grinder, it is different, since the angle you will have is made by the side of the wheel.

 

[BuckMKII]

For my 3/8 lo profile chains I use Husqvarna Swedish roller file guide. It comes with 5/32" files and allows each tooth to attain a great edge.

http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=161161

 

[Sagetown]

GB chains were made in China last I read. Older reports were 'they were terrible', but lately been getting some pretty good reports.
Is the filing Kit especially for a .043 gauge chain ? That's the only reason I can think of that the file wouldn't sit properly into the cutting tooth.

 

[trickytune]

It is actually pretty good and semi chisel. So after testing I bought 3 more chains and some cheap hurricane chain turned up. The seller would not take them back. The kit was supplied for the .043" gauge chain. I think you may be onto something. I can probably adjust the height of the file with some heat shrink where it mounts.

 

[Franny K]

A few comments.

I am reading between the lines that you bought the correct size file gauge and you bought the Stihl branded one. The one I am thinking of attaches to the file/handle with little threaded bent wire type method. It should say for 1/4 and 3/8picco on the device and have an angle mark to show the angle relative to the bar to make the stroke direction. The idea is to have 20% of the file diameter above the cutter top so using a different size file is probably not ideal. For Stihl chain both the 0.043 and the 0.050 gague use the same 5/32 file. The oregon 0.043 or 90 class calls for a slightly larger 11/64 file while the 0.050 stuff 91 class calls for 5/32.

If your angle of filing is wrong perhaps the side isn't getting touched. If the side of the cutters has been dulled perhaps the top needs come back more to get a fresh edge on the side.

I can state I use both the Stihl and Oregon clip on style file guides designed for 5/32 diameter files on both size drive link thickness. That Stihl chain in 0.043 is very good stuff changing to something else that you are not even sure what it is is kind of puzzling.

 

[Sagetown]

It is actually pretty good and semi chisel. So after testing I bought 3 more chains and some cheap hurricane chain turned up. The seller would not take them back. The kit was supplied for the .043" gauge chain. I think you may be onto something. I can probably adjust the height of the file with some heat shrink where it mounts.

.043 gauge. Yep; that's it.
I use my Dad's old Sears & Roebuck file guide. Fully adjustable. I think it was made by Granier.?

 

[trickytune]

Franny K you are right that is the type I have. I changed to .050" as my stock chain was safety chain and there seems more options in the wider .050".
I was thinking it might be right and just needs a few more strokes but I hate taking off more after I have a sharp top edge. I was advertised as GB bar and chain and the bar does have GB on it. I am pretty keen to find some full chisel or decent semi chisel chain for that bar but not at the Stihl price. Thinking about oregon 91VXL. I should have taken a picture of the chain tooth after sharpening to show the side plate.

 

[Franny K]

The easiest pulling chain for the new bar probably is the px oregon or the earlier version vx. That is a safety chain with bumper tie straps. Here the Stihl chain is like 25% more in cost.

 

[CR888]

As the cutter wears back it should fit better sitting lower. You could try the next file size up 3/16 and see if that helps. l bought a roll of .404 gb evoII china chain and like it. Looks to be copied from Carlton. May have to ditch the guide and freehand it to get the results you want with 5/32 file. Download the 'Carlton filing pdf' and read it, you will be glad you did.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

No offense intended,

But I have to ask. Are you sure they gave you the correct holder? There are different holders for 3/8 Picco (lo-pro) and 3/8 standard pitch. The wrong holder will not place the file in the proper position in relation to the cutter tooth.

Take Care

 

[Full Chisel]

A few comments.

I am reading between the lines that you bought the correct size file gauge and you bought the Stihl branded one. The one I am thinking of attaches to the file/handle with little threaded bent wire type method. It should say for 1/4 and 3/8picco on the device and have an angle mark to show the angle relative to the bar to make the stroke direction. The idea is to have 20% of the file diameter above the cutter top so using a different size file is probably not ideal. For Stihl chain both the 0.043 and the 0.050 gague use the same 5/32 file. The oregon 0.043 or 90 class calls for a slightly larger 11/64 file while the 0.050 stuff 91 class calls for 5/32.

If your angle of filing is wrong perhaps the side isn't getting touched. If the side of the cutters has been dulled perhaps the top needs come back more to get a fresh edge on the side.

I can state I use both the Stihl and Oregon clip on style file guides designed for 5/32 diameter files on both size drive link thickness. That Stihl chain in 0.043 is very good stuff changing to something else that you are not even sure what it is is kind of puzzling.

.050 gauge chain is absolutely an upgrade for these saws, especially if you drop the bar length down to 12 or 14". The .043 chain is pretty dimunitive and does not last.

It sounds like you may need to adjust your top plate angle a bit so the side plates are getting touched by the file.

 

[Scott Kelly]

Are you holding the guide correctly on the tooth and raker? If you ride just on the cutter the file will ride too high and sharpen only the top and not fully on the sides, much like what you are experiencing..

 

[trickytune]

I think just on the cutter. It's sharp now and i have nothing to cut. But I will find something soon and then touch it up and check how I am doing it. The holder is for 3/8Lp and has a 4mm 5/32" file. Thanks for the input.

 

[Scott Kelly]

Has to be riding on both, meant to be close to level but not quite because of the definition of the "bite" of the tooth. I bet it's sharp as all get out for a very short time between sharpenings. It's going to take alot of tooth to get it corrected if this has been going on for long. Good luck man, practice and consistency, you're gonna junk a few chains before you get the hang of it. A caliper to measure cutter length is a solid investment.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Okie]

Did not read all of this post but: (from experience)
If your file guide is one of the metal type file holders with knurled clamps on each end and has the 30/35 degree slashes.
These type file holders do not do a good job of sharpening on some chains, the file rides too high in the holder. (and you have to use the correct holder for desired size file)

Also if the tooth is worn back little bit and the depth tang is therefore higher (in front of the tooth) the file guide and file will ride higher in the tooth because the front of the file holder is riding on the top of the too high depth tang and won/t sharpen correctly. File down the depth tangs first so as the file sits correctly.
But you will eventuall find that :
You need to practice sharpening the chain by hand filing W/O using the manual hand held file guide.
You can lay a straight edge on the top of the cutter teeth to check the depth tang height (do it on a new chain to get the idea) and also place a file in a new chain tooth to get the idea of correct size file.
Just gradually start weaning yourself away from all the fancy gadgets for sharpening and you can easily hand file in the woodlot before a chain gets real dull. If you want good cutting aggressive cut chains stay away from low kickback type chains.
To file down the depth gauges get yourself a good flat bastard file and go to the grinder and grind the edges of the file smooth so as only the top and bottom of the flat file cuts and if the files edge touches a tooth while filing a depth tang it won't do any tooth harm.