Stihl Rules
ArboristSite Operative
Has any of you used these mills if so how did they work and are they worth the money. Here is an example. YouTube - Granberg Alaskan Small Log Chainsaw Mill from baileysonline.com
Depends on what you wont to do in the end.
With that type of mill you would only be able to mill up to about 20'' and then i can see accuracy problems.
With a 36'' Granberg allaskan type mill you have a more choices and combined mith a minni mill can allmost do anything.
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/167446.htm
it takes a pretty powerful saw to be able to get through a log without bogging down. imo there is no overkill with csming. a 361 might almost be enough if 20" is your max but i don't like to see my saw struggle and depending on the wood, 20" is plenty. plus you generally want one saw set up for bucking and another with your mill on it.
i use .404 full house ripping chain that should be kept sharper than i ever seem to get it. (remember .404 chain requires .404 bar tip and sprocket) i've only been into it for a couple years though so lets hear some other opinions.
Thank you, does baileys carry the bar and chains you are talking about?
i think everyone will agree though that csming is addicting, satisfying and frustrating all at the same time.
Gone as wide as 28" with the mill set-up you linked to with my MS390. Take it easy with your saw and she'll do just fine....of course it goes without saying. Plenty of oil on the scary sharp chain will cut great.
Big CC saws are great, if you already have one, but to buy a new one(or good used one) can be extremely bad for your checking account just for ripping a few slabs......nah.
Scott B
Simply put your 361 would make that mill look too small, I regularly run a 25 inch bar on an 034 in australian hardwood on a mill where I regularly use the full length of the bar. a standard alaskan will lose about 4 to 5 inches of cut so theoretically you should be able to run a 28 inch bar on an alaskan in the american timbers which are SOFT in comparison (actual cut would only be about 22 to 24 inch.) Speed will be the killer and when cutting at full bar your feed will be fairly slow but on 12 to 18 inch cut you will be fine.
As for chains I run full comp semi chisel which I sharpen to 10 degrees on the top plate (normally top plate is 25 to 30 degrees.) you may find that when ripping you can run slightly lower rakers than standard but i would recommend starting with leaving this as it would be standard for a start and maybe experiment a little down the track.I started with the 034 and 25 inch bar now I run a 42 inch bar on an ms660 with a 4 post GB mill (similar to the granberg but the GB mounts better.)
Oh and stay with 3/8 chain some people I know use the 3/8 picco but i find the 3/8 63 thou stihl RSC i think it is works like a dream just change the top plate angle over a few sharpens.
Really the alaskan type mills are fairly easy to build and if you were concerned about whether it would be worth the investment you could build one quite cheaply and easily, then if you think you want to progress you could buy one or even build a better one with better materials and your gained knowledge.
Something I will say is chainsaw milling is slow, tedious, dirty, hard work but it is worth it when you get it all worked out and start to see some results for your input.
When you first start out, learn how it all works on some logs you will not mind sacrificing, you will make a few mistakes!!!
at the end of the day enjoy what you do and don't get disgruntled if it doesn't work out straight away.
yeah you know a newer ms 361 probably doesnt have that much less power than my old husky 2100.
and yeah .404 chain and tips are pretty common, get em at baileys or wherever.
i milled 26 yellow cedar slabs in the bush today though, some 30" wide, so it definitely depends on what your goals are.
It is a pretty powerful saw in its class turns fast not a 460 or 660 though. I build small country things in the basement so if I could just cut the average boards you can by at Lowes 1" x 12"s and lower it would save me alot of money. I would by from a mill but i dont have a planer so I thought one of these could come in pretty handy.
That is an attractive price. :msp_thumbup:also, i use canola oil for bar oil, easy on the environment and much cheaper than anything else around here. i get 5 gallons of it for 30 bucks.
That is an attractive price. :msp_thumbup:
Where do you find it ? It costs far more than that at the grocery store.
it takes a pretty powerful saw to be able to get through a log without bogging down. imo there is no overkill with csming. a 361 might almost be enough if 20" is your max but i don't like to see my saw struggle and depending on the wood, 20" is plenty. plus you generally want one saw set up for bucking and another with your mill on it.
i use .404 full house ripping chain that should be kept sharper than i ever seem to get it. (remember .404 chain requires .404 bar tip and sprocket) i've only been into it for a couple years though so lets hear some other opinions.
i think everyone will agree though that csming is addicting, satisfying and frustrating all at the same time.
what saw are you running and why .404 for milling?
I use .404 too on the mill. I hate to venture a guess at the advantages but I will...stays sharp longer???
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