Chain Sharpener

[BPS. LLC]

I want to start sharpening my own chains. There looks like there are a lot out there. I've never had much luck sharpening them by hand. What do you guys think of this one? How's the price? It looks like it will sharpen pretty much any chain I have.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product2_351196_351196

 

[tex]

I haven't used one personally, but my chain "guy" has an Oregon grinder. He likes his, and does a good job on any of the three different chain types I give him. I don't think you can go wrong with a name brand like Oregon. Stay away from the Chinese junk though.

 

[mlkdvm]

You should really learn to sharpen by hand. It isn't difficult. Chain grinders are sometimes necessary but I have seen lots of chains damaged by using a chain grinder incorrectly. The cheap grinders do not have reversible motors and that means that it is difficult or impossible to keep from getting burrs on the cutters on one side of the chain. If the wrong technique is used the cutters can be burned which will permanently ruin a chain. If the length adjustment is not exact it is easy to get the cutters on one side a different length than the cutters on the other side. Grinders can remove a lot of metal very quickly which shortens the life of a chain. Grinders are more useful on square ground chain because it is much more difficult to hand sharpen square ground chain than round ground chain.

I have an Oregon grinder which I don't use any more. I also have a Silvey 510 chain grinder, which does have a reversible motor. I can get a chain really sharp with it, but I don't use it very much. I use a file and sharpen by hand most of the time. I usually touch a chain up after every one or two tanks of gas. A couple of light strokes with a file is usually all it takes to getting a chain cutting the way it should. I file new chains before using them because I can get them sharper than they come from the manufacturer. The Silvey is mainly used on damaged chains, ones that are not cutting straight due to having different length cutters and chains that have had teeth damaged by hitting a rock or metal.

 

[jhoff310]

I hand file all of my chains and use the dremel attachment if they are really mucked up. I had a local guy sharpen my chains in the past with a sharpener and it did shorten the life of my chains by taking off too much too quickly.

just my .02

Jeff

 

[esshup]

mlkdvm, what Oregon grinder do you have, and why'd you switch to a Silvey?

 

[mlkdvm]

mlkdvm, what Oregon grinder do you have, and why'd you switch to a Silvey?

I think it is a 511A. I bought the Silvey primarily because of the reversible motor, which my Oregon grinder does not have. The Silvey has more precise and repeatable adjustments than the Oregon. It does cost quite a bit more than an Oregon though.

When you manually sharpen with a file, the filing direction should be from the inside of the cutter toward the outside. When using a grinder, the grinding wheel should turn from the outside toward the inside to prevent getting burrs on the outside of the teeth.

The biggest mistake that I made when I first got a grinder was to let the wheel contact the teeth for too long. If you ever see the teeth turn blue from too much heat you might as well throw the chain away because it will never hold an edge.

 

[logbutcher]

You should really learn to sharpen by hand. It isn't difficult. Chain grinders are sometimes necessary but I have seen lots of chains damaged by using a chain grinder incorrectly. The cheap grinders do not have reversible motors and that means that it is difficult or impossible to keep from getting burrs on the cutters on one side of the chain. If the wrong technique is used the cutters can be burned which will permanently ruin a chain. If the length adjustment is not exact it is easy to get the cutters on one side a different length than the cutters on the other side. Grinders can remove a lot of metal very quickly which shortens the life of a chain. Grinders are more useful on square ground chain because it is much more difficult to hand sharpen square ground chain than round ground chain.

I have an Oregon grinder which I don't use any more. I also have a Silvey 510 chain grinder, which does have a reversible motor. I can get a chain really sharp with it, but I don't use it very much. I use a file and sharpen by hand most of the time. I usually touch a chain up after every one or two tanks of gas. A couple of light strokes with a file is usually all it takes to getting a chain cutting the way it should. I file new chains before using them because I can get them sharper than they come from the manufacturer. The Silvey is mainly used on damaged chains, ones that are not cutting straight due to having different length cutters and chains that have had teeth damaged by hitting a rock or metal.

:agree2:

I hand file all of my chains and use the dremel attachment if they are really mucked up. I had a local guy sharpen my chains in the past with a sharpener and it did shorten the life of my chains by taking off too much too quickly.

just my .02

Jeff

:agree2:

And there it is.

If you're serious about chainsaws, learn to hand sharpen. You'll always be able to touch up a chain in the field. Understand how to make a chain last longer.

You can: Correct chain faults such as nicks from hitting barbed wire or hitting a shell in a trunk. Stump vises and a good accurate hand sharpening tool such as Pferd make it easy.....just takes some practice and changing files often. Most chains (Stihl etc...) have witness marks or angle lines on the top teeth for guidance. Mostly, hand sharpening is as net fast as all those grinders that need setup time, and wheel changes for different chains. Most of all hand sharpening will never destroy or burn chains.

 

[esshup]

I agree with what was said. My chainsaw usage might be different than many here - I either do most of my sawing on the property, or at one other place. None are far from a vehicle, at the most 200 Yds.

Personal preference here - if a chain gets dull, I think I'm better off changing the chain and sharpening it once I get back to the house. There is a lot of sand in the soil, and I seem to find every stinkin' bad thing there is in a tree so the chain usually needs a lot of work. I have yet to run out of sharp chains although I've come very close a few times.

 

[Butch(OH)]

It will sharpen chains but usualy needs some work. Several articles on it over on the chainsaw forum one of which was written by me Mine sees very limited use, basicaly chains that are rocked or hit objects imbedded in the wood. I have watched many people try to hand file and the biggest obsticle I see is they try to do it with the saw rocking around, cant be done. Stump vise is mandatory (IMO) in the field and in the shop you mount the saw by the bar in a vise. It takes an expert to file a chain while sitting on the tailgate of a pick up, when it is held still chain filing becomes easy. Online guides at all the chain Mfg sites show the basics better than I can explain them. The Oregon file plates sold anywhere the chains are sold are a good "crutch" for learning and those that cant see or dont care to learn to do it right as are the various other gizmos sold by Husky, Carton and others. Otherwise just a file and a decent file handle is used. Filing IMO is just plain all around better than grinding. The only thing a grinder has on filing is speed, everything else is a minus.

 

[CWME]

I learned to hand sharpen chains using the Husky file guide that they sell at Lowes. It might be cheating to the purists but it really helped me understand the geometry involved in a chain grind. The raker depth guides on them work really well for me too

With that said I have the Northern grinder and really like it. I have been cutting a lot of pine with dirt and rocks trapped in the bark or nails in the wood. This has caused quite a bit of damage to some of my chains. The grinder has cleaned up that damage quickly for me.

They both have their place in the tool box=) Edit, at least in my toolbox that is=)

 

[logbutcher]

It will sharpen chains but usualy needs some work. Several articles on it over on the chainsaw forum one of which was written by me Mine sees very limited use, basicaly chains that are rocked or hit objects imbedded in the wood. I have watched many people try to hand file and the biggest obsticle I see is they try to do it with the saw rocking around, cant be done. Stump vise is mandatory (IMO) in the field and in the shop you mount the saw by the bar in a vise. It takes an expert to file a chain while sitting on the tailgate of a pick up, when it is held still chain filing becomes easy. Online guides at all the chain Mfg sites show the basics better than I can explain them. The Oregon file plates sold anywhere the chains are sold are a good "crutch" for learning and those that cant see or dont care to learn to do it right as are the various other gizmos sold by Husky, Carton and others. Otherwise just a file and a decent file handle is used. Filing IMO is just plain all around better than grinding. The only thing a grinder has on filing is speed, everything else is a minus.

True Butch, butt you haven't tried the PFERD hand filing system. I think it's marketed under "SharpForce" or some cute name from Husky. It's German genius, doing the tooth AND raker in one pass. Look for it as pro dealers or @ Baileys' catalog. Except for big rock or deep wire nicks, I'll never go back (back) to any electrical grinder.
Reccommended by 9 out of 10 %$#@*&%.

 

[CWME]

True Butch, butt you haven't tried the PFERD hand filing system. I think it's marketed under "SharpForce" or some cute name from Husky. It's German genius, doing the tooth AND raker in one pass. Look for it as pro dealers or @ Baileys' catalog. Except for big rock or deep wire nicks, I'll never go back (back) to any electrical grinder.
Reccommended by 9 out of 10 %$#@*&%.

I think my buddy has one of those and it looks pretty slick to me. I haven't got to try it yet but hope to soon!

 

[hoosier daddy]

Granberg file-n-joint

I prefer to use the granberg file-n-joint in the shop and touch up in the field when necessary. I think that you can get chains to a razors edge if you will take the time to vice the bar and pay attention to the number of strokes. I usually take 4 chains with me when i'm cutting so that if I rock a chain or when the chain STARTS to become dull I can switch out...rarely do I field file. I gave up on having others sharpen (Grind) my chains...it seems like they care less about my chains than I do, but that's my 2 cents.

One thing that I really like about the granberg system if that it taught me to slow down and be methotical (SP) about angles...that's been the saver for me. I'm sure that there are other systems out there but that is the one I really like. You will hear some hub-bub about it (Granberg) being difficult to set up...it's not and I am no rocket scientist...it's the best $30 I've spent in years!

 

[Butch(OH)]

True Butch, butt you haven't tried the PFERD hand filing system. I think it's marketed under "SharpForce" or some cute name from Husky. It's German genius, doing the tooth AND raker in one pass. Look for it as pro dealers or @ Baileys' catalog. Except for big rock or deep wire nicks, I'll never go back (back) to any electrical grinder.
Reccommended by 9 out of 10 %$#@*&%.

Oh Great! Another saw toy I dont yet own, LOL

 

[CTYank]

I prefer to use the granberg file-n-joint in the shop and touch up in the field when necessary. I think that you can get chains to a razors edge if you will take the time to vice the bar and pay attention to the number of strokes. I usually take 4 chains with me when i'm cutting so that if I rock a chain or when the chain STARTS to become dull I can switch out...rarely do I field file. I gave up on having others sharpen (Grind) my chains...it seems like they care less about my chains than I do, but that's my 2 cents.

One thing that I really like about the granberg system if that it taught me to slow down and be methotical (SP) about angles...that's been the saver for me. I'm sure that there are other systems out there but that is the one I really like. You will hear some hub-bub about it (Granberg) being difficult to set up...it's not and I am no rocket scientist...it's the best $30 I've spent in years!

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73974&stc=1&d=1215231195
What he said. IMHO, greatest invention since chipper chain.

 

[4seasons]

I hand file all of my chains and use the dremel attachment if they are really mucked up. I had a local guy sharpen my chains in the past with a sharpener and it did shorten the life of my chains by taking off too much too quickly.

just my .02

Jeff

This is the same thing that I do. Took a chain to a shop to have it ground exactly once. After that I learned how to do it right, sure wasn't going to pay someone to cut my chain life in 1/2. My grandfather bought a grinder to use on his chains and after going through 3 chains in a week it just collects dust now. Not to mention that a hand filed chain cuts better than a ground one. And like someone else mentioned if you turn a tooth blue you will be sharpening that chain every time you cut.

 

[sawkiller]

After always using a grinder I decided to cut exclusively this year with only freehand filed chains. I started with 4 new chains and I still have 3 I have yet to use I am still on the first chain. I have cut about 10 cords of wood with this one chain and it has very little noticable wear. I simply touch it up when I put fuel in and have had no problems it is still cutting as good as the day I put it on.

On the other hand in years past I would go through 3 to 4 chains to get the amount of wood I have now and at $15 per chain I will spend my money on files from now on!

By the way I am only on my third file. I will also recomend that you try a few different file brands and find what you like. Personally I like the Oregon files the best so far and I wouldn't buy another Stihl file! I still want to try a Saveedge and a Pferd when I can find them individually and don't have to try a dozen!

 

[TonyK]

I have an Oregon grinder that I picked up earlier this year. I have found that if setup and used correctly that it will put a very good long lasting edge on a chain. When setup poorly it will turn a dull but useable chain into a dull and unuseable chain. I have also found that since I have a mix of .325 and 3/8th chains that it is kind of a pain to swap out the wheels all the time. I will continue to hand file as a normal practice both in the woods and in the garage and keep grinder to fix my multitude of mistakes or when I just feel like showing it off.

 

[1harlowr]

A grinder is just like any tool. Use it correctly it does a nice job quickly. Use it incorrectly it does a terrible job quicker.
A file used correctly will do a nice job a little slower. Use it incorrectly it does a poor job slower.
Whichever you get and use, learn to use it correctly.

 

[mtngun]

A grinder is just like any tool. Use it correctly it does a nice job quickly. Use it incorrectly it does a terrible job quicker.
A file used correctly will do a nice job a little slower. Use it incorrectly it does a poor job slower.
Whichever you get and use, learn to use it correctly.

Well put. Rep headed your way.

When the file nazis claim that grinders wear out chains faster, that says they don't know how to use a grinder.