Edge & Engine
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Yeah, some Oregon chain has that too. BTW, the chain gauge doesn't determine which file size to use, it's the pitch that determines that.
Chain sharpening
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Yeah, some Oregon chain has that too. BTW, the chain gauge doesn't determine which file size to use, it's the pitch that determines that.
Nitroman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Can we have a pic to see how bad it is? I have always used a Granberg tool to handfile (I cannot ever seem to eyeball the angles), and I've cut into the drive links too, but I have never had problems with it. I just try to avoid doing that.
stihl 440
Addicted to ArboristSite
394
And considering that 394xp has enough power to break a brand new chain............lol:greenchainsaw:
And considering that 394xp has enough power to break a brand new chain............lol:greenchainsaw:
parrisw
Tree Freak
Ya, thats why I like to be careful.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
We'll consider the first two images, a standard filed tooth (With a round file).
The next two images show the profile/shape, that I file my teeth like.
As you can see from this fourth image... In order to get that profile, you have to come into the links a little bit with the file.
I like this profile on my tooth... Doesn't mean others will.
The next two images show the profile/shape, that I file my teeth like.
As you can see from this fourth image... In order to get that profile, you have to come into the links a little bit with the file.
I like this profile on my tooth... Doesn't mean others will.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree with those that say no big deal to ding tie straps. I try not to, but sometimes especially with square it can happen a little by accident.
On the other hand, I personally have yet to see shop sharpened chains I could live with. Usually it's the youngest monkey in the back that actually does the grinding.
I realized some places do a good job, just haven't seen it personally yet. I recommend learning to be totally self sufficient sharpening wise.
Course it depends on how much strap has been removed.
On the other hand, I personally have yet to see shop sharpened chains I could live with. Usually it's the youngest monkey in the back that actually does the grinding.
I realized some places do a good job, just haven't seen it personally yet. I recommend learning to be totally self sufficient sharpening wise.
Course it depends on how much strap has been removed.
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stihl 440
Addicted to ArboristSite
modded 066
I have to be careful with the 066 as well...it'll bust a chain...no problem....:jawdrop:
:greenchainsaw:
I have to be careful with the 066 as well...it'll bust a chain...no problem....:jawdrop:
:greenchainsaw:
If you are hitting the tie strap with either the hand file or the grinder, you're doing it wrong.
The tooth cuts at the top, not down in the gullet by the tie straps. If you go down into the gullet, you are wasting energy, time, and metal.
Won't hurt much, unles you saw the chain in half.
When a electric grinder at a shop does this, it is usually because the s.o.b. running it is too lazy to adjust the depth setting on the grinder. Some guys don't think it is important. I think it is sloppy and wasteful to cut too deep.
The tooth cuts at the top, not down in the gullet by the tie straps. If you go down into the gullet, you are wasting energy, time, and metal.
Won't hurt much, unles you saw the chain in half.
When a electric grinder at a shop does this, it is usually because the s.o.b. running it is too lazy to adjust the depth setting on the grinder. Some guys don't think it is important. I think it is sloppy and wasteful to cut too deep.
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's true for round, shouldn't touch the strap. But with square the width of shorter bevel on the stone is a compromise and sometimes if I am a little "careless" the outside corner of the stone will touch the strap. With care it can be avoided, and in fact I usually touch a dressing stick to knock the sharp outside edge off the grinding wheel after I dress the two primary bevels. That often is just enough to have the wheel miss touching the strap.
If the wheel still touches the strap, then simply dressing the shortest bevel on the wheel a little "thinner" solves the issue. My description probably doesn't make sense if one is not familar with out a square grinder wheel is dressed, I realize.
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's me
You are probably one of the exceptions, then. Around here is is usually a teenage kid that is one step up from sweep floors.
parrisw
Tree Freak
I have to be careful with the 066 as well...it'll bust a chain...no problem....:jawdrop:
Thanks ya, I'll keep that in mind.
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have...they will get some pretty good distance off the tip of the bar at WOT!! and they have a tendency to break things.....
chainshawman
ArboristSite Member
Yeah, some Oregon chain has that too. BTW, the chain gauge doesn't determine which file size to use, it's the pitch that determines that.
My bad! 7/32 file with 3/8 pitch chain. I have been told that some use 5/16 with 3/8 pitch chain but I think it puts to much of a hook on cutter.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
First off- I agree that a round ground chain should not be in the tie straps.
But
When I file a round chain, I will get into the tie strap a little.
Imo if you are square grinding or filing a chain and not getting into the tie straps, your angles could be improved considerabley. The only reason new square chain is not ground into the tie straps is because it is ground before it is assembled.
In my experiance grinding into the middle of the tie strap will not have very much effect on the chain breaking. The tie straps tend to fail at the rivet holes, on the bottom where the bar wears the edge closer to the hole. So I avoid filing or grinding close to the rivets.
But
When I file a round chain, I will get into the tie strap a little.
Imo if you are square grinding or filing a chain and not getting into the tie straps, your angles could be improved considerabley. The only reason new square chain is not ground into the tie straps is because it is ground before it is assembled.
In my experiance grinding into the middle of the tie strap will not have very much effect on the chain breaking. The tie straps tend to fail at the rivet holes, on the bottom where the bar wears the edge closer to the hole. So I avoid filing or grinding close to the rivets.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree with removing some material in the middle not weakening the tie straps.
On a new round filed chain I sharpen the cutter with the file at the proper height to give the right hook; the file will not be hitting the tie straps; I then deliberately scoop down into the bottom of the gullet and take material off the cutter and tie strap to enlarge the chip gullet. This cannot be continued though as you get back onto the last third of the tooth or you would be removing meat over the rivets and weakening it. For the same reason it is better to drop one file size when you get well back on the tooth.
I think Chainsawman meant 3/16 file not the 5/16 used on harvester chain.
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
the chains that ive had break have alway broke in the middle of the tie straps and snapped them both in half. i agree that the big that you hit the tie strap with a file would considerably weaken the chain
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
My tooth looks identical to the lgx... And was that way before the lgx came out. I don't think that profile is a waste of time.
My dealer doesn't even sharpen any more, or dress bars. So, I am learningto do it. I took a chain to a dealer in another town, and they sharpened it at many different angles. Looked like one of my early hand file jobs! I like the little line on Stihl chains, actually it's a wear indicator, but it is a good guide...... I dress Rollo E bars with a file, ES with a bench disc sander, because they seem a bit harder. I wish I were better at gauging the angle of elevation.....
My tooth looks identical to the lgx... And was that way before the lgx came out. I don't think that profile is a waste of time.
Well, it looks plenty sharp. I am sure that it cuts plenty of fast. But what are you gaining by filing down in the gullet? That isn't where the tooth does the cutting.
I'm not saying there is no gain to your method, I just don't understand why you are doing it. Please explain.
