chain stretch

[harrygrey382]

I've maxed out the tension screw on a chain:
-It's 20" hardnose on an 041AV, with an oregon chain (3/8, semi-chisel, non safty).
-The saw oils like buggery, bar is Never hot, hardly even warm even after dogging down while berried in dry oak.
-The tension screw is new,
-I've replaced the sprocket(7 tooth), drum and bearing (no play).
-The cutters are about half worn.
When I got the saw the tension screw was about halfway out.

My questions are, why is it doing this and can I just remove a link?

 

[kevlar]

Some chains stretch more than others,I find stihl chains stretch less.If a customer has run out of adjustment and there is no other cause, I just remove a link(provided the chain is still in good shape)

 

[2dogs]

Some chains stretch more than others,I find stihl chains stretch less.If a customer has run out of adjustment and there is no other cause, I just remove a link(provided the chain is still in good shape)

Yep. Chain stretch is a normal part of wear. I have written about one of our annual jobs here before. Some chains require a link be removed after a days cutting. Some chains have had 3 links removed by the end of their life. The conditions are extremely abrasive and we cut hundreds of small willows each day, they chains stretch constantly.

 

[Erick]

You can have a link taken out but IMO probably better to just get a new chain. The chain stretch’s because the rivets wear, if you lay the chain stretched out flat on a bench with all the drivers touching and then push and pull the ends of the chain (kinda hard to explain, compress the chain and then pull it out tight again) you can see the play/wear in the rivets. If it has a lot of play I would replace it... why spend money on a break and mend on a chain that is pretty well done anyway.

 

[alderman]

Woodland Pro chain

I've had good luck with this chain. I get a bit of a stretch when I first put on a new one but after that they seem to hold tight.

 

[flatpikr]

I've maxed out the tension screw on a chain:
-It's 20" hardnose on an 041AV, with an oregon chain (3/8, semi-chisel, non safty).
-The saw oils like buggery, bar is Never hot, hardly even warm even after dogging down while berried in dry oak.
-The tension screw is new,
-I've replaced the sprocket(7 tooth), drum and bearing (no play).
-The cutters are about half worn.
When I got the saw the tension screw was about halfway out.

My questions are, why is it doing this and can I just remove a link?

I think it's best to rotate 2 or more chains. I would get a couple of new chains, have the one in question modified and put it into "back-up" status.

 

[harrygrey382]

Some chains stretch more than others,I find stihl chains stretch less.If a customer has run out of adjustment and there is no other cause, I just remove a link(provided the chain is still in good shape)

OK, might as well try it. The rest of it's still ok.

You can have a link taken out but IMO probably better to just get a new chain. The chain stretch’s because the rivets wear, if you lay the chain stretched out flat on a bench with all the drivers touching and then push and pull the ends of the chain (kinda hard to explain, compress the chain and then pull it out tight again) you can see the play/wear in the rivets. If it has a lot of play I would replace it... why spend money on a break and mend on a chain that is pretty well done anyway.

I see what you mean, I'll have a look at this play

I think it's best to rotate 2 or more chains. I would get a couple of new chains, have the one in question modified and put it into "back-up" status.

Well I don't normally rotate chain (unless different sorts for different uses) - I do all my sharpening on the bar. I do have other chains for it, but don't like throwing things out

 

[atvdave]

Take the saw to your local chain saw dealer and see if a chain with one less drive link will work.

 

[harrygrey382]

Take the saw to your local chain saw dealer and see if a chain with one less drive link will work.

I'd be highly surprised if my local dealer stocks a chain at 71 DLs. Even more suprised if he'd make one up just to try it... I guess I could phone him about it, but too much hastle I reckon I'll just break it, offer it up the decide

 

[zr900]

you could put an 8 tooth sprocket on and keep on running if the saw could pull it without bogging too much

 

[harrygrey382]

you could put an 8 tooth sprocket on and keep on running if the saw could pull it without bogging too much

I guess it would take up some slack, but I think it'd bog too much - 20" 3/8 on an 041 is a good match. 8 tooth would be too much

 

[Erick]

I guess it would take up some slack, but I think it'd bog too much - 20" 3/8 on an 041 is a good match. 8 tooth would be too much

Not to mention the sprocket would cost more than the new chain.

 

[dave k]

Suggest you recount the drive links -72 on a 20" HN 041AV !
Sure you are not but are you running the chain dull ? Or if it is 71 dl are you starting off with an over tight chain causing more wear than normal ? Or has an over tight chain damaged the tensioner threads and it is not moving the full way ?
Im fairy suprised to see this problem, in all my work I have never seen or had a chain streched that far ! even with very over heated carbide chains.

 

[371groundie]

two things have led to me running out of chain adjustment before running out of cutters to file (and i file til theres nothing left!)

1: cutting in abrasive conditions. dust, sand etc. you kinda accept that the saw is gunna be a little dull, but the wear happens everywhere even in the riviets. so between the chain going around more due to being a little dull and the abrasive environment you stretch a chain pretty quick. i have a couple 18" chains that can almost fit a 20" bar!

2: clean cutting conditions. i mean timber falling in 2 feet of snow the cutters never get dirty! since you dont have to file as often (like once a week mabey) theres lots more chain travel and thus wear than normal between filings.

dunno if either of these situations apply to you or not, just throwing out some possibilities. i have one saw that stretches chains faster than the others, even in the same cutting conditions. still havent figured that one out.....

 

[harrygrey382]

Suggest you recount the drive links -72 on a 20" HN 041AV !
Sure you are not but are you running the chain dull ? Or if it is 71 dl are you starting off with an over tight chain causing more wear than normal ? Or has an over tight chain damaged the tensioner threads and it is not moving the full way ?
Im fairy suprised to see this problem, in all my work I have never seen or had a chain streched that far ! even with very over heated carbide chains.

lol - I am proud of my sharpening and am always on top of it. Even after the heaviest cutting the working edge of the bar is almost cool (stihl oil and a healthy oiler). yeah 71 would be the DL count after I've removed a link. Hence the unlikelyhood of a dealer stocking one. It's got 72 now. The chain tension was correct (I know how to set tension), and the tensioner threads are healthy.

two things have led to me running out of chain adjustment before running out of cutters to file (and i file til theres nothing left!)

1: cutting in abrasive conditions. dust, sand etc. you kinda accept that the saw is gunna be a little dull, but the wear happens everywhere even in the riviets. so between the chain going around more due to being a little dull and the abrasive environment you stretch a chain pretty quick. i have a couple 18" chains that can almost fit a 20" bar!

2: clean cutting conditions. i mean timber falling in 2 feet of snow the cutters never get dirty! since you dont have to file as often (like once a week mabey) theres lots more chain travel and thus wear than normal between filings.

dunno if either of these situations apply to you or not, just throwing out some possibilities. i have one saw that stretches chains faster than the others, even in the same cutting conditions. still havent figured that one out.....

ok well 2 may apply to me. I've been cutting in some dirty conditions recently (spend a lot of time filing!) - but not always. Actually the problem seems to have got worse recently so maybe that's it. I'll go out and check it in a few minutes

 

[Fish]

You say you have replaced the sprocket, I assume recntly. I suggest much of the "stretching" came from the old sprocket, and now you are running a stretched chain on a new sprocket, which will wear the new sprocket quickly
and may further beat the old chain too.

Also, hardnose bars are hard on chains as well.

 

[046]

Stihl rim sprockets are cheap.... any question replace em.. Madsens has em for under $5.
always try to have a few extras laying around... takes all of 5 minutes to change out.

I'm with fish.. a worn out sprocket will wear on a chain. normally if a chain stretches to the point of needing a link out.... that chain is getting tossed, along with a new sprocket getting installed.

save the almost worn out chains for the really dirty jobs. then pitch afterwards.

 

[harrygrey382]

You say you have replaced the sprocket, I assume recntly. I suggest much of the "stretching" came from the old sprocket, and now you are running a stretched chain on a new sprocket, which will wear the new sprocket quickly
and may further beat the old chain too.

Also, hardnose bars are hard on chains as well.

yeah, you may well be right. I replaced the (spur) sprocket partly because there was a little play in the bearing, and also because when you rotate the chain (should have mentioned this...) it goes from being slightly too loose, to slightly too tight. The new rim sprocket set up didn't help. I realise the new sprocket will now be out of whack with the chain, but didn't have much to lose.

always try to have a few extras laying around... takes all of 5 minutes to change out.

041 is outboard:censored:

 

[Fish]

Going to the rim system was a good move, much cheaper in the long run.

 

[Erick]

041 is an outboard spur sprocket, you have to replace the whole clutch drum which means you have to take the clutch off to change it, not an easy field swap like an inboard with a rim.

The clutch drums are somewhere between 15.00 and 30.00 dollars depending on what you are buying and from who.