chainsaw doesn't cut straight

[MCW]

Paint / lacquer ?? Are we talking the same thing? I'm measuring the inside dimension of the groove with a feeler, like as shown in the 1st photo below.

The GB Bars are painted whereas the Carlton Tsumura and German made bars have the raw finish with a clear lacquer over it. Some may call this paint I suppose. Because they are new bars there is a fair bit of overspray in the grooves. This would disappear in about 2 seconds running a chain but like I said, they're brand new.

 

[dsell]

Throw your files away and go to Harbor Freight and get a $40 chain grinder. Its a cheap, plastic, flimsy piece of a tool, but it cuts both sides of my chain even without adjusting the chain stop. I had a $300 Oregon sharpener that was very solid, but never cut the left and right chisels even without moving the chain stop. Also, my opinion, use semi chisel chain because it is easier to sharpen and not have the troubles you are describing. The Harbor Freight grinder doesn't have the 15 degree tilt for the full chisel chain. If you sharpen your chains regularly you won't have to take much chisel off and the raker should be OK. When you start messing with the rakers you can really screw up a good chain and make it cut circles. There are lots of opinions on the angle of the cut, (for hardwood, softwood, deadwood, frozen wood, petrified hedge), I try to match the way it came from the factory.

 

[EngineerDude]

Because they are new bars there is a fair bit of overspray in the grooves. This would disappear in about 2 seconds running a chain but like I said, they're brand new.

Appreciate the clarification, now I understand.

Also, my opinion, use semi chisel chain because it is easier to sharpen and not have the troubles you are describing. The Harbor Freight grinder ...

Appreciate the input but while what's driving this discussion is that the saw doesn't cut straight, the real trouble I'm describing is the thickness of the groove in the bar. The chains I'm running have been checked closely, and are very even from left to right.

Also, at the risk of hijacking the thread, you've hit a hot button that I need to respond to. I don't and won't shop at Harbor Freight. Simply stated, I can't in good conscience support a company whose entire business model is to sell low price, generally inferior merchandise at the expense of American jobs.

 

[dsell]

I can appreciate your response to Harbor Freight. Most of their stuff is junk. As for the American job reference, what countries own most of the chainsaw industries? I believe the $300 Oregon chain sharpener I had was made in Italy. I think my Husqvarna 50 came from a Swedish company and my Makita and 3 Stihls from a German company. I do have a good old American made Homelite EZ that I still run, at least I think it was made in America. We'd probably have trouble getting the members of this site to switch to the old Homelites and Macs. The trade deficit is at a 9 year low and some is attributed to lower Chinese imports, but mostly due to oil. That's great that the US can be more self sustained. The town I grew up near was virtually wiped out due to foreign oil. Do we even want to get started on Iraq?

 

[Bermie]

Plenty of correct answers for the crooked cut
Angles, length of cutter, sharpned, height of rakers, uneven bar rails, different, larger bar gauge than chain gauge...

One that hasn't been mentioned is how you hold the saw...I've seen many people hold the saw (I teach) so that if you were to let go with your right hand the left hand is holding the top handle in a position that has the saw leaning to one side or the other. The left hand holds most of the weight initially so proper position on the handle will lead to a straight cut, given all else is ok.

The classic is left hand right on top on the flat section of the handle, they then bring the saw over to the right side of their body, as they should to avoid the kickback zone...but do not let their left hand slide over to the curve of the handle, so their wrist is cocked over at an extreme angle that gets uncomfortable real quick...they have a death grip and end up straightening their wrist, thus pulling the saw over on an angle...

I get people to experiment holding the saw in different positions on the top handle (before they start it!) to see exactly what effect it has on the angle of the bar into the cut. Once the cut is under way, all you should have to do is guide it, the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the cutters should keep things going once you've set it on its way...

 

[MCW]

Plenty of correct answers for the crooked cut
Angles, length of cutter, sharpned, height of rakers, uneven bar rails, different, larger bar gauge than chain gauge...

One that hasn't been mentioned is how you hold the saw...I've seen many people hold the saw (I teach) so that if you were to let go with your right hand the left hand is holding the top handle in a position that has the saw leaning to one side or the other. The left hand holds most of the weight initially so proper position on the handle will lead to a straight cut, given all else is ok.

The classic is left hand right on top on the flat section of the handle, they then bring the saw over to the right side of their body, as they should to avoid the kickback zone...but do not let their left hand slide over to the curve of the handle, so their wrist is cocked over at an extreme angle that gets uncomfortable real quick...they have a death grip and end up straightening their wrist, thus pulling the saw over on an angle...

I get people to experiment holding the saw in different positions on the top handle (before they start it!) to see exactly what effect it has on the angle of the bar into the cut. Once the cut is under way, all you should have to do is guide it, the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the cutters should keep things going once you've set it on its way...

I agree mate and this is something I have seen and done. I haven't had a real issue on the Dolmars but the 3120 is bad for it if you have your hand to far left.

 

[SawTroll]

Seeking some more input, the response to my attempts to resolve this with Windsor includes their statement "The groove spec for a .058 gauge bar is .062” in the new material condition. With the amount of cutting you have described the groove could be worn to .065” at the top of the rails where you are effectively measuring the groove. What you cannot measure easily is the groove width below the top of the rails which is likely opened up beyond the .065” you measured at the top. We call that the “hour glass” wear pattern which is a wear mode on the inside groove of guide bars."

They are saying that a .065 gap on a nominal .058 bar represents normal wear after cutting a half dozen medium sized trees, cutting in a very clean environment, using only Stihl bar oil, and with meticulous maintenance and only on a couple occasions ever hitting the dirt with the chain.

Can this possibly be true?

.....

:jawdrop: I don't believe that is true at all - unless the quality of the bar is really bad.

Recently I tried to put a .058 chain on a .050 bar that has gone through 5 chain - but still total no-go!