chainsaw info

[Brmorgan]

:agree2:

I like that idea. Should be effective, yet very simple. Something like the strain reliefs used to anchor armored TECK cable to electrical boxes, LIKE THIS. A big one of those might actually work too, because many of them have standard pipe threads - just get rid of the expansion sleeve inside and replace the cap with a pipe cap. On the downside though, any with a decent size inner diameter can be bulky and are rather pricey - I paid over $50 for a 1" ID one to fit my welder extension cord.

 

[BobL]

:agree2:

I like that idea. Should be effective, yet very simple. Something like the strain reliefs used to anchor armored TECK cable to electrical boxes, LIKE THIS. A big one of those might actually work too, because many of them have standard pipe threads - just get rid of the expansion sleeve inside and replace the cap with a pipe cap. On the downside though, any with a decent size inner diameter can be bulky and are rather pricey - I paid over $50 for a 1" ID one to fit my welder extension cord.

I was thinking of using 1" brass plumbing fittings but they don't have a lot of flat sealing surface so I might have to turn a flat onto their mating surfaces.

 

[KiwiTony]

Yep - I've thought about these ideas - rolled these over and over in my head and walked the aisles of many hardware and plumbing stores looking at fittings.

The idea I currently favor is a one does not use any glue, just drilling a hole in the flat side of the tank and fitting a narrower threaded spigot so that a nut can fit through the existing filler opening and be screwed onto the internal part of the spigot.

That way I can use something like O-rings and provide a good seal that can be retightened as needed. My tank on my current saw is pretty beat up so I would do it to that one if I could get a replacement, just in case something goes pearshaped during the mod - I don't want to be left without a tank.

Hey Bob,
I don't know if one of these right-anle fittings from, I believe, a TS 350 concrete saw would fit your tank.If so, the filling problem might be solved.
You would be able to insert your existing "breather" cap into the female section,and the male piece into your tank.Possibly a purpose built seal for correct alignment in the tank so the filler was in a vertical plane.
The thread is 30 x 2. Not common,but some hydraulic fittings (generally adaptors) are available with a 30x2 male end.
The attatched photo was copied from an ebay sellers listing.

 

[BobL]

Hey Bob,
I don't know if one of these right-anle fittings from, I believe, a TS 350 concrete saw would fit your tank.If so, the filling problem might be solved.
You would be able to insert your existing "breather" cap into the female section,and the male piece into your tank.Possibly a purpose built seal for correct alignment in the tank so the filler was in a vertical plane.
The thread is 30 x 2. Not common,but some hydraulic fittings (generally adaptors) are available with a 30x2 male end.
The attatched photo was copied from an ebay sellers listing.

Thanks for the lead KT

 

[BIG JAKE]

Yep - I've thought about these ideas - rolled these over and over in my head and walked the aisles of many hardware and plumbing stores looking at fittings.

The idea I currently favor is a one does not use any glue, just drilling a hole in the flat side of the tank and fitting a narrower threaded spigot so that a nut can fit through the existing filler opening and be screwed onto the internal part of the spigot.

That way I can use something like O-rings and provide a good seal that can be retightened as needed. My tank on my current saw is pretty beat up so I would do it to that one if I could get a replacement, just in case something goes pearshaped during the mod - I don't want to be left without a tank.

Bob I think you are on the right track here. I made a 5 gallon oil tank using a brass bulkhead fitting and flat rubber gaskets each side. NPT fittings to ball valve to a hose barb for a spout and I use it to put drain oil from my vehicles into 1 gallon milk jugs/take to recycler. Don't believe I'd use o rings on a flat face though. I got the fitting from a specialty house that deals with fittings and makes hydraulic lines etc, or you could make a custom on a lathe. The hose barb ball valve combo could also be used to fill spill free if you have a flexible clear hose on your gas can I have one like that 1/2" dia. Shut ball valve when done filling and your on your way. You'd need a sleeve over the hose barb to keep it clean between fillings though. I don't know how venting would work this way maybe straight thread brass filler cap with gasket would be better

 

[BobL]

Thanks Jake - this has gone to back burner because I have the 880 to play with for the last 3 months but I do want to get back to it. I think I will try the elbow method first because I don't want to drill holes in the tank if I can avoid it.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Thanks Jake - this has gone to back burner because I have the 880 to play with for the last 3 months but I do want to get back to it. I think I will try the elbow method first because I don't want to drill holes in the tank if I can avoid it.

Yeah I hear ya. You have the resources and machine availability to pull that off too. opcorn: