chainsaw mill...Best bang for the buck

[TFPace]

Hello All,

I have been operating a WM since 1995.

I am new to chainsaw milling though and would appreciate some guidance as to how to set up a chainsaw mill.
I have a Husqvarna 395XP so the power head is taken care of. I come across material every now and then that I have to pass on due to the 36" max width of the Wood-Mizer. Sawing 36" is REALLY asking this sawmill to too much IMO.

What is the best combination to set up my 395? I have a large maple that I would like to slab for table tops.

I operate a metal fabrication/welding shop so I have access to materials and equipment.

Your help is appreciated.

Tom

View attachment 229520View attachment 229521View attachment 229522

 

[mtngun]

I am new to chainsaw milling though and would appreciate some guidance as to how to set up a chainsaw mill.
I have a Husqvarna 395XP so the power head is taken care of. I come across material every now and then that I have to pass on due to the 36" max width of the Wood-Mizer. Sawing 36" is REALLY asking this sawmill to too much IMO.

What is the best combination to set up my 395? I have a large maple that I would like to slab for table tops.

You say you can cut 36" on WM. 36" would be a struggle on 395 with 42" bar.

If you are talking 4 - 5 foot wide slabs then think about a 5 - 6 foot bar and a 120cc saw.

 

[TFPace]

Yikes

mtngun,

That wan'ts what I was needing to hear :msp_ohmy: The piece I am referring to is 48" across. I need to see is I can find someone local with a slabber to mill this piece for me.

I'll post a picture today of my tree.

I attached photos in the original post.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Talltom]

A slabbing mill like the Alaskan or Panthermill is the easiest way to cut slabs, but bars that length get very expensive, certainly too much for a single log. You could consider a mill type that cuts from the side, like a Logosol Timberjig or Big Mill and cut from both sides with a shorter bar. You won't get a completely flat cut, though. A Big Mill will give you a better cut, but they run $700 + $100 for a 36" bar.

I would rethink how you want to cut the log. Full slabs cut from above and below the heart will cup, and slabs cut from the middle will tend to split and warp at the heart unless it's a really thick slab and the heart is completely encased (and even then.) It's easier to cut the slabs in half and rejoin them. Cut off enough from the top and bottom of the log to fit on your WM at 90 degrees to the original cuts and cut through the middle, turn each piece 90 degrees and cut half slabs in the original plane. For the outside slabs, it will be much easier to flatten them when they're half the width. They may even fit through a planer. For the center of the log, you can cut a slab from the middle and remove the heart before rejoining or you can cut right down the middle and bookmatch the pieces on each side (my preferred method.)

If you need a slabber for the first cuts, a Panthermill and 36" bar would be the cheapest way to go and would work well with your powerhead.

 

[820wards]

Hello All,

I have been operating a WM since 1995.

I am new to chainsaw milling though and would appreciate some guidance as to how to set up a chainsaw mill.
I have a Husqvarna 395XP so the power head is taken care of. I come across material every now and then that I have to pass on due to the 36" max width of the Wood-Mizer. Sawing 36" is REALLY asking this sawmill to too much IMO.

What is the best combination to set up my 395? I have a large maple that I would like to slab for table tops.

I operate a metal fabrication/welding shop so I have access to materials and equipment.

Your help is appreciated.

Tom

View attachment 229520View attachment 229521View attachment 229522

I've been thinking about your operation and how you cannot mill any thing over 36" wide. Is your goal to finish milling the sample log into usable boards, or to slab the logs with natural edges?

If I were to only want finished boards that would be used for future furniture projects, I would consider building a mini-mill that would allow you to square up the logs to fit on your band mill. You can then mill the logs into finished sized lumber.

Here you can see how a mini-mill setup could square up a log and size it for your bandsaw mill. Since you have a metal fab shop, making a mini-mill and guide rail board would be very easy. And your

With a cant like this you could easily mill with your bandsaw mill.

Now if you decide that you want natural edges on your milled logs over 36", then an Alaskan style mill would be a better choice. Your 395 with a 36-42" bar would do a fine job of milling the logs into slabs or used to make square cants. I just added a 50" bar to my mill because I have a few logs lined up that I want the live edges on the slabs, but I still use my mini-mill for squaring logs to be milled into edged boards.

So I would think about what you want to do with the larger diameter logs, then decide which type of mill you really need. In my footer, http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/158004.htm, you will see a simple build for a mini-mill your machine/welding shop could build in a few hours and not spend a lot of $$. As for an Alaska style mill, those can be purchased from various vendors in different lengths unless you decide to build your own.

Just my .02 cents worth

jerry-

 

[TFPace]

Jerry & Tom thanks for the guidance.

The maple that I am wanting to slab would be used for a table top. I have considered the splitting/cupping issues and that does worry me. I've seen tops made from material like this maple and this piece of maple was dropped off and it's sat here for a year.

Jerry, thank you for sharing your thread on your mill. Very nice work I might add!

I hated to learn that my 395 would be under power for a 60" bar. I could position the log to use a 48" but it would be very tight IMO.
I seldom see 3120's laying around gathering dust. I use my 395 for stump grinding mostly, to lower the trunk down to the ground so I am not spending all day of top wood.

Thanks guys,

Tom

 

[mikeb1079]

i agree that a 395 is underpowered for a 60" bar (i run an 066 and it does well up till around 36" or so) but if this is only a rare thing and you can find a 60" bar for your saw why not give it a shot? realize that it will be slow and keep your chain razor sharp, use an aux oiler, allow the saw to warm up and cool down properly and who knows...i've often wondered if the 066 would pull a big bar like that. after all it's not like your doing it day in day out. anyone else think it just may work?

 

[TFPace]

yep... i like that

Mike,

I don't have $800.00 laying to blow but this is what I am considering

https://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46790+404&catID=

I surfed around on the prices... seems like the above kit is 798-800.00

Are you guys running .375 or .404 chain?

 

[BobL]

Given you have access to materials and a shop the best bang for the buck mill will be one you make yourself.
A basic mill is easy to make especially if you are prepared to drill holes in the bar. It can also be as fancy or not as you like.

In terms of the 395 and a 60" bar, if it was for just a few cuts then a 395 could do it slowly. I know a guy who uses a 660 with a 36" bar but occasionally uses it with a 60" bar on Aussie hardwoods. He takes his time and, as mike1079 says, makes sure his chain is as sharp as he can get it.

Just be aware that if it is only for a few cuts the cost of the 60" bar means you could almost buy a slab that big for the same price.

One thing no one has mentioned is, once you cut it, it won't be just one slab, you will get addicted so you might as well do it right from the start :msp_tongue:

 

[TFPace]

Costs

Bob,

Here is what I am coming up with.

Buy the 56" kit from Bailey's @ $800.00

OR

DIY kit

66" Bar $400.00 double end Woodland Pro
Handle $92.00
Chain $64.00 194 DL
Oiler $54.00

Total $610.00

I am leaving off steel or aluminum for the frame. I have mot included to freight either.

So 800.00-610.00 = $190.00 saved if I build the saw frame. Work is pretty busy at the moment. I would most likely elect to buy a complete system. I would like to see Bailey's offer free freight some time soon:hmm3grin2orange:

Bailey's kit doesn't have the grinder, Grandberg's kit has a grinder included.

Freight on the above kit is $50.00

 

[BobL]

66" Bar $400.00 double end Woodland Pro
Handle $92.00
Chain $64.00 194 DL
Oiler $54.00

Total $610.00

I am leaving off steel or aluminum for the frame. I have mot included to freight either.

So 800.00-610.00 = $190.00 saved if I build the saw frame. Work is pretty busy at the moment. I would most likely elect to buy a complete system. I would like to see Bailey's offer free freight some time soon:hmm3grin2orange:

Bailey's kit doesn't have the grinder, Grandberg's kit has a grinder included.

Freight on the above kit is $50.00

A handle is not necessary - the mill itself can be used by a helper to lift it on and off the log.
I also wouldn't get a double ender, I'd get a 60" bar - and drill the bar to fix it to the mill uprights that way.
This is a MUCH better arrangement for milling than the bar clamps on the standard alaskan mills.
The clamps also get bogged down on the sides of the log and restrict movement around obstacles.
If you remove the dogs you will get 57" of cut with this arrangement - and you won't have to remove the saw from the mill to remove the chain.
The oiler can be made from a plastic oil bottle and couple of garden irrigation fittings.
With the money you save I would get another loop of chain - actually instead of getting a single 94DL loop I would get a 25' roll of woodland for $90 and that will get you two 60" chains.

Still, - if you are time poor, then the kit is a good deal.

 

[mikeb1079]

its hard to argue with bobl. :msp_smile:

 

[MHouse1028]

i like this thread..i agree that your 395 will be fine for 60" bar every once in while also i find if you run the saw with the filter cover off and run open element it runs a lil cooler you just have to clean your filter much more often..like bobL said you'll be hooked after your first cut ...and besides then you have that pride of doing it yourself...so good luck and enjoy..and yup i run .404 chain on my 084

 

[TFPace]

MHouse,

To run the .404 chain I am guessing I need to change to drive sprocket on the 395?

Would Baileys be the place to buy the open element filter?

I am waiting to see if Baileys runs the Alaskan mill on sale in April. I'm getting slab fever:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[MHouse1028]

i here you on the slab fever...it's been in the 70's the last couple weeks so i've been milling almost everyday.i've had customers calling already wanting lumber and slabs...yes you would have to change the drive sprocket on your saw it's only a couple bucks it really depends on what the bar your purchasing requires..for the open element all you do is just remove the cover to access the air filter and leave that cover off basically it allows the filter unrestricted air...it's a real simple thing and it works pretty well.i think in the bailey's catalog under sawmilling it shows two guys using the alaskan mill and they have a husqvarna mounted to the mill and the saw has the filter cover removed....but anyhow hope this helps and cant wait to see some pictures of your slabs when you get 'em done

 

[BobL]

. . . if you run the saw with the filter cover off and run open element it runs a lil cooler . . . . .

I would be very careful about doing this since this will change the air/fuel ratio and can run the saw too lean and actually overheat the saw internals.
If you decide to do this I would tune the saw this way and then put the cover on.

The best way to keep the saw as cool as possible is to
- keep the chain sharp
- don't push the saw too hard
- let the saw idle to cool down after wide cuts (the fuel actually cools the saw far better than extra air since it vaporizes and removes extra heat), ~3 minutes is needed to get the temp down to idling temp.

If you are up for it an exhaust mod and retune helps performance and cooling.