Chainsaw Mill guide fixture....

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well we tried the fixture out at the GTG yesterday. It did okay, I think setup was realtivly easy. I didn't really need to extend the horizontal tubes out as far as I did but it still works you just need to find a longer board.
I did half with Stipes mini mill and his J-red (which I liked) and the other half the fixture and alaskan mill. They both have pro's and cons:

The fixture easily sets up but you have to rotate the log in order to cut that second cut at a 90. It does take more time to do so because of extra adjustment on the mill and flipping the log whereas the mini just mark, screw and cut, but you eat a lot of sawdust!!!!

Here are some pics of the GTG.

gtg042.jpg


gtg043.jpg


gtg045-1.jpg


gtg051.jpg


gtg047.jpg


gtg054.jpg


gtg055.jpg
 
I think that your milling was a big hit at the GTG Gink. The milling fixture of yours may be copied sometime in the near future if you dont mind. Nice job!!
 
I think that your milling was a big hit at the GTG Gink. The milling fixture of yours may be copied sometime in the near future if you dont mind. Nice job!!

Yeah it was the highlight of my day! Getting to try new stuff out is always cool.

Have at it, I'm sure you wil improve on it. I would have done a couple things different looking at it now. I'll have to use it more to elaborate on that!! At least it is a cheap build, what I didn't have at home Maldeney took from the steel mill's melt pile at his work, total cost was around 2.00 for the lags and fasteners:clap:
 
Looks like it went pretty well! Cant looks nice and square too. I think I'll end up fabbing something up based on this design. I would be making it specifically for smaller and shorter logs though so I would definitely make all the horizontal sections shorter, like you said. I would also solely be using the rail mill with it and not the Alaskan, so I don't need the extra length past the ends of the log for clearance. This design has some real potential for making box-heart beams out of small logs, say a 6X6 out of an 8" log or something. Should be easy to center the jig on the pith center of the log too.
 
Hi Gink!!!

That was a blast to watch you mill that sycamore up!!! Good job on it!!!
Liked the fixture...Worked out pretty slick....The adjustment makes it sweet and where the clamps is behind instead of infront of the mill made it nice... I had a great day with you all!!! :cheers:
 
Likewise, It was great to meet you and put a face with a name. Again thanks for bringing the mini mill and that sweet johnnyred. Hopefully we'll be able to do that again in the future.:cheers:
 
I think I know what you are getting at Jake, but can you explain a little further to clarify about the "U." :chainsaw:
Just lay a 2x4 or 6 flat-butt two more up to the flat one at 90 deg(standing upright or on end) one on each side. In the construction world an L is called a strongback and very rigid. Nail or screw in place. If you form a U it would be stronger and easier to level on a log. I don't have drawing software or would draw it for you. BTW from the looks of the milling pics at GTG whatever you guys did looks like it worked out great! Nice work:clap:
 
Just lay a 2x4 or 6 flat-butt two more up to the flat one at 90 deg(standing upright or on end) one on each side. In the construction world an L is called a strongback and very rigid. Nail or screw in place. If you form a U it would be stronger and easier to level on a log. I don't have drawing software or would draw it for you. BTW from the looks of the milling pics at GTG whatever you guys did looks like it worked out great! Nice work:clap:


Gotcha... That's what I though you were getting at.

Gink fixture worked pretty well. As he mentioned though ther are some changes that can be made to make it better already. :chainsaw:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top