Chainsaw warm up period?

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Okie294life

Brush Popper and Amateur Tree Butcher
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I was watching a post the other day a guy warned specifically against revving a cold saw. He showed a scored piston, (which looked like the result of an air leak to me. He the went into all this detail about ovals fitting into circles before everything heats up.....blah blah blah. I don’t treat my saw any different than I do any of my other power equipment. I choke start it, let it run maybe 3-5 seconds to clear the carb then get after it. My mentality is that if manufacturers didn’t want you piss revving a cold engine they wouldn’t have a saw start at high idle. Some of you dudes go out with a temp gauge and all that, or burn up half a tank of gas before cutting, I’ve seen the videos. Is all that really necessary?
 
I was watching a post the other day a guy warned specifically against revving a cold saw. He showed a scored piston, (which looked like the result of an air leak to me. He the went into all this detail about ovals fitting into circles before everything heats up.....blah blah blah. I don’t treat my saw any different than I do any of my other power equipment. I choke start it, let it run maybe 3-5 seconds to clear the carb then get after it. My mentality is that if manufacturers didn’t want you piss revving a cold engine they wouldn’t have a saw start at high idle. Some of you dudes go out with a temp gauge and all that, or burn up half a tank of gas before cutting, I’ve seen the videos. Is all that really necessary?
I warm them up about ten - 15 seconds.
 
Watching a hot saw competition, one of the competitors held his hand in front of the exhaust until he looked satisfied. It was only a few seconds but maybe by the time of the exhaust gases are at full temperature it's ready to roll?
 
I shoot for 2 min before I really start reving it up.

But the main factor for me is I keep touching the cooling fins around the 1:00-2:00 area (same area that cold seize happens often) on the cylinder and wait for them to get fully warm/hot.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
2 minutes, really? Timed on a watch? I'd have forgotten what tree I was going to cut or shut it off and started loading firewood. Never did that, never seized a saw, but then again some have only lasted 20+ years and gave it to my son.
 
Only guidance i've ever seen is to not piss-rev a new saw at fulll throttle and only run it at max throttle when buried in wood for the first few tanks. (Stihl 261c-m manual)

Common sense might suggest a short warm up but never heard specifics on time.

I've never waited around too much once she's running.
 
When i was setting up new saws...and after i rebuild a saw, i give them a short idle..10 seconds, with a few blips to make sure all the air is purged out of the fuel system...then i load it up for a few seconds using the chain brake...this really kicks the rings out hard and helps break in. The peaks on the hone job are microscopic but they are crucial to ring seat...and they wear down fast. You need dynamic compression to push the rings out and that happens under a load.

After this i take it to full throttle a couple times..by now the oiler is kicking off heavy..any initial chain sag has happened...time to shut her down.

Cold saw...10 seconds..by then the piston is hot and the cylinder is well on its way.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
When i was setting up new saws...and after i rebuild a saw, i give them a short idle..10 seconds, with a few blips to make sure all the air is purged out of the fuel system...then i load it up for a few seconds using the chain brake...this really kicks the rings out hard and helps break in. The peaks on the hone job are microscopic but they are crucial to ring seat...and they wear down fast. You need dynamic compression to push the rings out and that happens under a load.

After this i take it to full throttle a couple times..by now the oiler is kicking off heavy..any initial chain sag has happened...time to shut her down.

Cold saw...10 seconds..by then the piston is hot and the cylinder is well on its way.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Honing chainsaw nikasil cylinders is frond upon.
 
2 minutes, really? Timed on a watch? I'd have forgotten what tree I was going to cut or shut it off and started loading firewood. Never did that, never seized a saw, but then again some have only lasted 20+ years and gave it to my son.
Never timed it. But sometimes I've ran my saws < oF outside, 2 minutes is about right. Until cyl fins are warm.

I have 028S 038M and 036 with original OEM pistons still showing machine marks.

Ever heard of a 4-corner/cold seize? Piston expands before cylinder does and makes 4 scuffs, worst on hot side of ex port ~ 2 oclock where piston is hot but cylinder is coldest

1 cold seize.png

There was an old study husqvarna did. Most wear occurs just after start up, in the first few minutes.

But You seem to be too impatient to learn about such things and just want to start cutting, maybe You'd forget where the truck is too.

You flat landers down south wouldn't understand warming up a motor anyway........ Just rev yours up!!!! You'll be ahead a cut or two without warming up and keep Meteor in business.
 
I let them idle while I get ready to put my gloves on and plan my next drops.
Warming them up is first is good. I keep them warm in a heated garage then in the warm cab of the truck. I also have winter and summer settings on the low speed screw. Right around the end of September/ beginning of October the saw will let us know when to readjust it for the cooler temps.
 
Never timed it. But sometimes I've ran my saws < oF outside, 2 minutes is about right. Until cyl fins are warm.

I have 028S 038M and 036 with original OEM pistons still showing machine marks.

Ever heard of a 4-corner/cold seize? Piston expands before cylinder does and makes 4 scuffs, worst on hot side of ex port ~ 2 oclock where piston is hot but cylinder is coldest

View attachment 830534

There was an old study husqvarna did. Most wear occurs just after start up, in the first few minutes.

But You seem to be too impatient to learn about such things and just want to start cutting, maybe You'd forget where the truck is too.

You flat landers down south wouldn't understand warming up a motor anyway........ Just rev yours up!!!! You'll be ahead a cut or two without warming up and keep Meteor in business.
Sorry don't live on flat land. Up Landers must not be able to read and understand, I stated never seized a saw, but have rebuilt many, stopped counting, well over 100 and run rebuilds I have done. As I have stated many times, it's your saws and run them however you want. Do I warm them up, yes, 2 minutes, no.
 
I won't give my car or truck the full beans until the engine's up to a reasonable temp; I treat my small engines the same way. Idle the saw however long it takes to get chaps and gloves and gear on, then take it relatively easy for a couple more minutes.

Loooooooooove my battery electric saw for quick cuts around the house. Push a button and pull the trigger, rock and roll.
 
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