Champion KCJ7Y alternatives?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

emr454

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
97
Reaction score
7
Location
Central NY
Hi folks, just came across a Pioneer Farmsaw in really good condition and it has no plug. I see champion doesnt make the KCJ7Y anymore, so what else will work? I threaded in a CJ6 and turned it over slowly by hand to make sure it isnt sticking into the cylinder too far and there was no contact, so is it good to go?

Eric
 
Hi folks, just came across a Pioneer Farmsaw in really good condition and it has no plug. I see champion doesnt make the KCJ7Y anymore, so what else will work? I threaded in a CJ6 and turned it over slowly by hand to make sure it isnt sticking into the cylinder too far and there was no contact, so is it good to go?

Eric

Just use a CJ7Y.

I never ever heard of a KCJ7Y.
 
Hi folks, just came across a Pioneer Farmsaw in really good condition and it has no plug. I see champion doesnt make the KCJ7Y anymore, so what else will work? I threaded in a CJ6 and turned it over slowly by hand to make sure it isnt sticking into the cylinder too far and there was no contact, so is it good to go?

Eric

Just run the CJ6, it is a shorter reach plug than the CJ8 that came in them back in the day. No need for an R type plug anyway as it will not interfer with the radio reception that don`t come with a chainsaw anyway.
 
Just run the CJ6, it is a shorter reach plug than the CJ8 that came in them back in the day. No need for an R type plug anyway as it will not interfer with the radio reception that don`t come with a chainsaw anyway.

Jerry a CJ6 is the same reach as a CJ8, its just 2 steps colder. The Y on a Champion means its a projected nose.

I thought a farmsaw was like a P41-P41 and used a Cj7Y but I defer to your experiance with these.
 
Jerry a CJ6 is the same reach as a CJ8, its just 2 steps colder. The Y on a Champion means its a projected nose.

I thought a farmsaw was like a P41-P41 and used a Cj7Y but I defer to your experiance with these.

No need to use the CJ7Y, it came in the later Farmsaws but the earlier ones came with CJ8`s in them, when an 8 was not in stock thousands of them were and are still running well on CJ6`s.
 
No need to use the CJ7Y, it came in the later Farmsaws but the earlier ones came with CJ8`s in them, when an 8 was not in stock thousands of them were and are still running well on CJ6`s.

Good to know! All I need now is a carb kit to get 'er running again.

FYI .... The Acres site has a plug xref table ...

Musta looked right past it, that's where I got the specs for the saw in the first place!
 
If I recall correctly. Champion's old number system worked like this:

In the middle, the number denoted heat range. The higher the number, the hotter.

Following the number were letters denoting design characteristics: "Y" means extended nose, which usually acts like a little hotter plug. The extended plug nose hangs out there in the burning gases and gets deposits burned off a little better. There were other letters, but I don't know most of them, except a "J" suffix meant a second gap inside the plug (J6J outboard plugs) and for a while many plugs carried a "c" for copper core. Platinum plugs carried a "P", except the old Homelight H0-8A.

The prefix immediately preceding the number usually means thread size and reach: J means 3/8" reach, and 14mm thread. A "K" here means 18mm thread such as was used in the old one-lunger snomobile engines of the 1960's

Before that is sometimes another letter. A "C" means a shorty plug. A "K" in this spot or ahead of the "C" means resistor, pretty much the same as "R" does, except that the "K" plugs used a NiChrome element and most of the "R" plugs used a carbon pellet.

The NiChrome element fired at a little less peak voltage, but sustained the spark longer than carbon. Its possible that Pioneers spec'ed it for this reason. I imagine it doesn't matter oiutside the test lab, but if you're concerned, use the NGK "R" equivalnet because I think NGK still uses a metal resistance element. I think that number is BPMR7

30 years ago i did a stint as the parts and service mgr for an OPE wholesale distributor. I took this down as notes back in 1980; I'm proud I saved them and even prouder to be able to find tthem after all this time!
 
Thats what I like about this joint, "Learn something new everyday, or brain matter thought long dead says, oh yeah I remember that". I think.


:rock:
 
There is a reason new saws come with NGK plugs but i've found Champion to be junk for saws but to each their own i guess.:greenchainsaw:
 
I run Champion no problems. NGK no problems. Bosch my fav no problems. Denso 2 out of ten bad. Just my experience.
Shep
 
There is a reason new saws come with NGK plugs but i've found Champion to be junk for saws but to each their own i guess.:greenchainsaw:

Oh really, NGK is the only plug used by all the chainsaw manufactures? :ices_rofl:

How wrong you are. As for the reasons the ones that do use them, it could be many, many reasons and lots that dont envolve them being the best plug made

They could be a great supplier who ships on time and meets quotas as well as giving a superior price break etc.

As for "to each their own i guess" ? That dont sound like you in your prior post stating that the OP or all of us should just buy NGK.
 
Then keep buying Champion nobody is stopping you but do a search on plugs and see what you dig up or just read the Bosch or NGK thread.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top