changed my splitter oil

[vwboomer]

At the 5 hour mark today I did my initial oil change on the Huskee 22ton. I was using it prior to the change so it was warm, but what came out of that drain plug was GRAY and ran like water. :jawdrop: I drained it into an oil pan that had truck oil in it so I can't get it analyzed or anything.

Should I call speeco on this? My thinking is maybe the minimum wage jockey at TSC put hydro oil it it? It ran, and continues to run fine, but I'm concerned.
After another hour or two I'll change it again.

Thoughts?

 

[Junior]

What motor do ya have? Mine was like that (B&S) but looks fine now. Just might be assebly lube?

 

[Rookie1]

I had an edger at wok like that. The oil looked gray when I changed it and it ended up seizing the rod. I dont want to alarm you but I would get it looked at or contact someone. It took quite a while for it to go but Im sure that gray oil was the problem.

 

[thejdman04]

You should be fine, just keep an eye on it.

 

[reaperman]

You are talking engine oil correct?

 

[Den69RS96]

On new engines, there is going to be some metal in there from breaking in the engine. Thats why the initial oil change is around 5 hrs. For piece of mind change it again in another 5 hours and then follow the manual. Every little small engine without an oil filter that i own will have the same thing. I've experienced that on my 5.7hp subaru engine on my pw, my 10hp Briggs intek on my chipper/shredder, and the honda engine on my mower. The subaru's engine oil was changed around 5 hours and I put it away for the winter since its a pressure washer, but it was exactly as you described. The first two times I changed the oil on the Briggs the oil was grayish The honda's oil is a very dark gray after I change it each year and thats going on 9 years. Warming the engine first is the best way to do it. The oil flows better and everything will be suspensed in the oil and carried out. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[ray benson]

On new engines, there is going to be some metal in there from breaking in the engine. Thats why the initial oil change is around 5 hrs. For piece of mind change it again in another 5 hours and then follow the manual. Warming the engine first is the best way to do it. The oil flows better and everything will be suspensed in the oil and carried out. I wouldn't worry about it.

I agree,Good advice.

 

[brownie525]

its probably just from the motor breaking in. if its grey next oil change then i would worry about it but i dont think you have anything to worry about.

 

[vwboomer]

I expected some suspended particles but nothing like that. If that's the common experience I'll see what happens then. It is the Briggs 650 btw.

Perhaps I've never seen it because I've never changed the oil in my lawnmower or the less used pw :monkey:

 

[kevin j]

gray can mean emulsified water. is there evidence it was sdtored outside or something?
I would change or check it after another hour or less. cheap insurance.

 

[Burntime]

I ran mine, dumped the oil and it had small particles in it, ran dino oil again, then dumped it and went to synthetic. I did not run the 2nd batch very long. Maybe 2-3 hours over a weekend, maybe 6 tops. Now it has mobil 1 and I have to add some each fall. When I tow it with my tractor the angle allows oil to get in by the valves and I get a puff at startup, just a splash each year is plenty. Its been a few years and it is just starting to turn colors. Maybe fall it will get a change? Maybe not. The biggest thing is to keep stabil in it!:greenchainsaw:

 

[vwboomer]

gray can mean emulsified water. is there evidence it was sdtored outside or something?
I would change or check it after another hour or less. cheap insurance.

It was actually. It was the only unit they had in stock and was outside the store during at least a rain/ice storm. I don't know how long it was out there however.

I put in 10w30 which is listed in the manual, but it also recommends straight 30. Since we're getting on warmer weather now, would straight 30 be better?

 

[Beefie]

Next time you change your oil switch over to 30w. If you read your owners manual it should say something about what temp you should run the oils at. That's outside air temp not oil temp. How do you like your new splitter

Beefie

 

[Burntime]

Make sure you switch back to 10-30 if you run it in winter or it will not start! I run 10-30 year round without an issue...

 

[Maldeney]

gray can mean emulsified water. is there evidence it was sdtored outside or something?
I would change or check it after another hour or less. cheap insurance.

:agree2:

The thought of having enough "metal flake" in the oil after a five hour break-in to turn the oil gray is a scary idea!

 

[computeruser]

If it were my engine, I would run it a bit and then drain and refill. Flush out any crap that is left in there.

I run Mobil1 10-30 in all my 4-stroke OPE. Honda, B&S, and Tecumseh. No oil consumption issues as compared to straight 30wt on engines in good condition. My Wheelhorse with an Onan did burn synthetic faster than straight 30wt, but heck it burned 30wt pretty damned quickly...kept the 'skeeters away, though.

As for long-term engine damage, I'd not worry about it. The B&S replacement engines are so cheap online, I'd not really cry too much if one died prematurely.

 

[IndyIan]

If it were my engine, I would run it a bit and then drain and refill. Flush out any crap that is left in there.

I run Mobil1 10-30 in all my 4-stroke OPE. Honda, B&S, and Tecumseh. No oil consumption issues as compared to straight 30wt on engines in good condition. My Wheelhorse with an Onan did burn synthetic faster than straight 30wt, but heck it burned 30wt pretty damned quickly...kept the 'skeeters away, though.

As for long-term engine damage, I'd not worry about it. The B&S replacement engines are so cheap online, I'd not really cry too much if one died prematurely.

Which Mobil 1 do you run? I'm not an oil expert but you want to stay away from oil with the "energy conserving" stamp in the round API label. Those oils don't have strong additive packages which is fine for newer cars. But for a B&S motor you want all sorts of additives to help when there's metal to metal contact, like in the valve train. Diesel oils are a cheap way to get decent additives, 15W40 would be just fine in a small motor, also the "high mileage" car oils have more additives. Motorcycle oils also have more additives too but are more $. I guess their isn't much oil in there so 4L would last for a while.
Ian

 

[Burntime]

I run full synthetic. I think its been about 3 years running it and it runs like a champ. The best part is I can actually use it in the winter! I also run hydro-trans fluid in the splitter instead of straight weight hydrolic oil. Its fine in the summer and works great in the winter!

 

[husky455rancher]

you can also run a little stp engine treatment too. its an excellent sorce of zinc. a key ingrediant thats left out of modern engine oils. zinc is key to the longevity of these primitive type motors. i run it in my charger and camaro. it helps protect the flat tappet cams.

 

[Bobcatter]

well, if you want technical stuff, here is an interesting article on air cooled engines (Porsche!). I'm sure the Brigs is about the same ...

But they say the amount of Zinc and Phosphorous have been reduced in oils, and that is bad for air cooled engines. They also list some oils that have relatively higher amounts of these ingredients.

http://www.356registry.org/tech/modern_oil_in_the_356.html