Cheap hydralic power

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cmetalbend

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Many farmer's have used this trick for years. They utilize the power steering pump of the vechicle. If anybody would like to know how it's done just ask.:popcorn:
 
I think I see where you are going with this. Do you set it up with quick connections? I can see how this could be a greatmod for a pick up.
 
Yes you can use a powersteering pump

But you need to know what the relief valve inside the pump is set at. Look for one off of a big heavy duty truck. Now you need a reservoir.
Tank can be plumbed in on the return side of the pump.Tank can not have any openings. Just an inny and an outy. Fill through the power steering pump
Belt driven will work.
 
Info Please...

Many farmer's have used this trick for years. They utilize the power steering pump of the vechicle. If anybody would like to know how it's done just ask.:popcorn:

i am glad i finally had this topic come up..we were talking about it recently at work and, nobody believed me about the concept working or having enough ummph....i wasnt 100% sure if my truck would have enough "guts" or not either
The truck is a 1978 dodge D100 w/ a 5.2L 318 COULD this be enough to convert it to a dump bed? A FRIEND GAVE ME A HYDRAULIC RAM,AND HOSES how many other items do i need? valve, tank,anything else? thanks in advance for any info..............................Scott
 
Cheap pumps

One of the coolist truck mounted pumps i ever saw, was a buddy of mine, He used the air conditioner pump to compress air, The truck didnt have air conditioning he just add the pump, It was a ford unit the old piston type compressor, man I was Impressed, looked all factory and everybody,!! Had the electric clutch hooked to a presure switch, tank monted on the frame under the the box, Had a master switch on the dash, Stuff like that there gets me PUMPED up, Ive been savin ford piston type compressors every since, LOL T,C, E,J,
 
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Guts,?

i am glad i finally had this topic come up..we were talking about it recently at work and, nobody believed me about the concept working or having enough ummph....i wasnt 100% sure if my truck would have enough "guts" or not either
The truck is a 1978 dodge D100 w/ a 5.2L 318 COULD this be enough to convert it to a dump bed? A FRIEND GAVE ME A HYDRAULIC RAM,AND HOSES how many other items do i need? valve, tank,anything else? thanks in advance for any info..............................Scott

Derbyguy, Are you wondering IF your 318 has the guts to run a hyd pump,? You runnin about 150 hp plus right? IF so you could run about 50 pumps at a time, or did I miss understand your question,? T,C, E,J,
 
used the air conditioner pump to compress air,


I did thison a 76 Dodge I had. Use the stock V twin AC pump, modified for some oil in the sump and it worked pretty well. Added some small tanks uner the back outside of the frame rails, and a quick connect plate just inside the tailgate at top of be, with a QC to plug in hose, a schradre valve to fill the tanks from home, and a small pressure gauge. Sure nice having some air to impact tools around farm equipment. It was slow, but could charge up then get a few seconds of good tool usage, which was usually all I needed until I did soemthing else int the repairn and needed the air gun again.


PS pump: Most are about 750 to 1200 psi vane type pumps, so you need to account for that in the lift calculations. Also, usually only 1 or 2 gpm. Revving the engine doesn't help either, as PS has a priority flow divider inside the pump to give a constant flow whether parking a car at idle, or going down highway. If it was regular pump output where flow increases with rpm, the car would steer like a gokart at high speeds!

Figure the pressues and cylinder size, and estimate the time to lift. If you go ahead, you will need a tank large enough to make up the volume of the single acting dump ram. Lot of volume there. and add a good return filter.


How about a clutched hydr pump dedicated to the dump? Surplus center has them not cheap, have to mount v belt drive, etc. and horesepower limited by the vbelt drive, but just using asmall er pump at higher rpm. The pto off the transm uses larger pumps at slower speed.

kcj
 
Not just 4 trucks

used the air conditioner pump to compress air,


I did thison a 76 Dodge I had. Use the stock V twin AC pump, modified for some oil in the sump and it worked pretty well. Added some small tanks uner the back outside of the frame rails, and a quick connect plate just inside the tailgate at top of be, with a QC to plug in hose, a schradre valve to fill the tanks from home, and a small pressure gauge. Sure nice having some air to impact tools around farm equipment. It was slow, but could charge up then get a few seconds of good tool usage, which was usually all I needed until I did soemthing else int the repairn and needed the air gun again.


PS pump: Most are about 750 to 1200 psi vane type pumps, so you need to account for that in the lift calculations. Also, usually only 1 or 2 gpm. Revving the engine doesn't help either, as PS has a priority flow divider inside the pump to give a constant flow whether parking a car at idle, or going down highway. If it was regular pump output where flow increases with rpm, the car would steer like a gokart at high speeds!

Figure the pressues and cylinder size, and estimate the time to lift. If you go ahead, you will need a tank large enough to make up the volume of the single acting dump ram. Lot of volume there. and add a good return filter.


How about a clutched hydr pump dedicated to the dump? Surplus center has them not cheap, have to mount v belt drive, etc. and horesepower limited by the vbelt drive, but just using asmall er pump at higher rpm. The pto off the transm uses larger pumps at slower speed.

kcj

You can build a cheep portable air compressor using air conditioner pumps as well, with a small gas engine, Or If you have the power , run a double pully on the motor and run two, You can put out some decent air with an ac unit, I made a portable battery charger many years ago using a 3.5 hp gas moter and a delco remy alternator, had to stay on top of belt adjustment, really needs to be spring loaded,. the 3.5 wasnt big enough to handle the 65 amp (small frame) delco If you put a dead head load to it, But worked great for a charger, If you want to build a high out put charger/ booster Use a 8 hp minimum @ 75 amp, It wont work at all If the battery is dead, because you need about 9 volts to excite the alternator,.I solved the problem using a 9 volt battery to spike the alternator, just a quick second and your good to go, (Intermitent push button is good) fun to build, cheap, and vary handy, many years latter, A friend of mine was selling his wrecker Booster package,..Said he paid 1800.00 for it new, pulled the cover off and Holly crap, It had a 16 HP Briggs a jack shaft and FOUR 65 amp delco small frame alternators, I still chuckle about that, If a little is good,? more is better ,..Right,..T,C, E,J,
 
what you want is a 97 dodge cummins power steering pump with hydroboost. this pump powers brakes and steering. a little tricky to hook up drive gear

$80 + $45 core at Oriellys

i am glad i finally had this topic come up..we were talking about it recently at work and, nobody believed me about the concept working or having enough ummph....i wasnt 100% sure if my truck would have enough "guts" or not either
The truck is a 1978 dodge D100 w/ a 5.2L 318 COULD this be enough to convert it to a dump bed? A FRIEND GAVE ME A HYDRAULIC RAM,AND HOSES how many other items do i need? valve, tank,anything else? thanks in advance for any info..............................Scott
 
Steering & brake pump

what you want is a 97 dodge cummins power steering pump with hydroboost. this pump powers brakes and steering. a little tricky to hook up drive gear

I think GM has the same, and they are belt driven, or ford, dont remember, But the eariler ones were belt driven, T,C, E,J,
 
nearly all power steering pumps only produce a MAX of 1100 psi--and not a whole lot of volume-----so--anything you power with this will be slow----and most hyd systems run off 3000 psi---lots of things can be made---but for this to work on some things, youll need a bigger dia cyl because of the lower pressure----
 
comment

Derbyguy, Are you wondering IF your 318 has the guts to run a hyd pump,? You runnin about 150 hp plus right? IF so you could run about 50 pumps at a time, or did I miss understand your question,? T,C, E,J,

the question was if the stock power steering pump has enough guts to work for my specific application(dump bed) in regards to the 318, MOPAR=MORE POWER
 
treeco:

If you can drive a separate pump, either pickybacked or vbelt drive, I'd go that way. Way less hassle, you get to pick the size you want, pressure is higher than PS pump, lines and motor flow is smaller, and way less possible dynamics than priority dividers talking to a two stage pump.
might have been me that said that, I would be concerned aobut it. Also, if you priority divider off the main flow, the divider works by throttling the unused main flow when not actually splitting, to the pressure used by the conveyor. i.e. may defeat the two stage part and run all the flow of small section at higher pressure (but not full RV pressure). Maynot have enough enigne hp or have cooling issues.
thas why, easier to just add a small 2 or 3 gpm pump at 2500 psi, etc. However, do you have enough engine?
what is the actual required rpm and torque to the conveyor?

and probably same price for pump as would be for the accessories needed to make the PS pump work. Still need the same RV and on/off spool or ball valve.

k
 
PS pump

the question was if the stock power steering pump has enough guts to work for my specific application(dump bed) in regards to the 318, MOPAR=MORE POWER

Depends on the size of the cylinder used, If I was doing it Id look for a snow plow hydraulic pump, Ive seen several of them on mopars, Seems like they prefer mounting a pump on the engine, especially if its a meyer plow, not sure what pressure they are capable of, but should do the trick, check rated psi before buying one And it looks like a nice proven package, T,C, E,J,
 
I've personally used them on 3,4, and 5 inch cylinders, I tell ya if their Weak I wouldn't know it. Now I will say and sombody touched on this earlier, the relief setting is important, as is the orfice on the oulet. You really need to know your application before expecting great results. On GM pumps the orfice control's alot. The guy earlier also said get one off a truck, I agree, they tend to have more pressure and volume, and capicity in some instances. the only part I disagree is on the resivoir. I tried the (Through the return) method first and What I found was the fluid wouldn't equalize to the pump fast enough. I ended up mounting the res. higher and running an 1 and 1/4 inch hose right over to the fill cap neck from the res. Now this could be because my res was lower about a third to the pump, but I watched it through the fill cap and it was really slow returning the pump. A person needs to check the avaliable pressure. I've been told (By a reliable source) that ford pumps have less pressure. True, I can't say. the other guy was also right about needing more fluid on hand(A RES) expessually when using one way hydralics.
 
the question was if the stock power steering pump has enough guts to work for my specific application(dump bed) in regards to the 318, MOPAR=MORE POWER

I've used mine on a haywagon dump, the spear unit in the bed, and other applications, Love it to death. Truck is a 78 chevy3/4 ton, but that's a chevy. Never know if those dodge's will take it or not. LOL
 
Dissapering Act????

I've personally used them on 3,4, and 5 inch cylinders, I tell ya if their Weak I wouldn't know it. Now I will say and sombody touched on this earlier, the relief setting is important, as is the orfice on the oulet. You really need to know your application before expecting great results. On GM pumps the orfice control's alot. The guy earlier also said get one off a truck, I agree, they tend to have more pressure and volume, and capicity in some instances. the only part I disagree is on the resivoir. I tried the (Through the return) method first and What I found was the fluid wouldn't equalize to the pump fast enough. I ended up mounting the res. higher and running an 1 and 1/4 inch hose right over to the fill cap neck from the res. Now this could be because my res was lower about a third to the pump, but I watched it through the fill cap and it was really slow returning the pump. A person needs to check the avaliable pressure. I've been told (By a reliable source) that ford pumps have less pressure. True, I can't say. the other guy was also right about needing more fluid on hand(A RES) expessually when using one way hydralics.
WELL....
 
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