chipper electric brake wiring?

[imagineero]

Hi All,
Fitted a new electronic brake control to my truck today (tekonsha P3) and the manual said that it's important the electric brakes are wired up with the correct polarity. If they're reversed, it can blow the unit. Apparently it's not uncommon for them to be wired randomly since they work exactly the same both ways. So I looked at the wiring on my 250XP (98) and both wires going into the brakes are colored black. I took the hub off in the hope that one would be marked or earthed or something, but they both go to the same place. Anyone know if there's some way of identifying which is the positive?

Shaun

 

[Pelorus]

Um, Shaun, I think they are just talking about hooking up the red to red and black to black? Should be pretty easy to figure which wire is + and which is the - with a continuity tester or multimeter. Anyway, you could probably just buy an adaptor for your new brake controller to hook up directly to the truck's wiring. I don't think it was necessary to pull off the wheel and brake drum.

 

[OCTJ]

There is no polarity on the magnets...either wire can be positive or negative.
Just don't hook the controller itself up with the wrong polarity.
Can't tell for sure but from the pic..may be time for new magnets.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

I am pretty sure they mean the controler itself.

When I change out brakes, I just buy the whole brake assembly. Its cheaper and is only 5 bolts.

 

[Grace Tree]

I am pretty sure they mean the controler itself.

When I change out brakes, I just buy the whole brake assembly. Its cheaper and is only 5 bolts.

+1

 

[imagineero]

Thanks guys,
Got it wired up today and everything works fine. The tekonsha unit is great, bu unfortunately only available as a 12V unit. I wanted to add some other stuff at the same time, so rather than just using a step down converter I added a 3rd battery, 24v-12v charger, wiring into the cab, and associatied cables, fuses, relays etc to run the brake controller, reversing cam, 12V cigarette lighter plug, GPS, stereo etc.

The brakes all work just fine, but they're not as powerful as they ought to be. You can adjust the brake controller for both maximum output and sensitivity, and the idea is to drive up the street, hit the manual lever and adjust the maximum output until it *not quite* locks up. Then you set the sensitivity according to your load. The unit has a G force sensor, so if you lightly touch the brakes, it does the same, and if you slam them on, it goes straight to maximum force.

Unfortunately, even with the output at maximum it doesn't lock up. How do you know if the magnets need replacing? Where are you guys buying the whole unit (brakes and magnet) from?

Shaun

 

[treeclimber101]

Thanks guys,
Got it wired up today and everything works fine. The tekonsha unit is great, bu unfortunately only available as a 12V unit. I wanted to add some other stuff at the same time, so rather than just using a step down converter I added a 3rd battery, 24v-12v charger, wiring into the cab, and associatied cables, fuses, relays etc to run the brake controller, reversing cam, 12V cigarette lighter plug, GPS, stereo etc.

The brakes all work just fine, but they're not as powerful as they ought to be. You can adjust the brake controller for both maximum output and sensitivity, and the idea is to drive up the street, hit the manual lever and adjust the maximum output until it *not quite* locks up. Then you set the sensitivity according to your load. The unit has a G force sensor, so if you lightly touch the brakes, it does the same, and if you slam them on, it goes straight to maximum force.

Unfortunately, even with the output at maximum it doesn't lock up. How do you know if the magnets need replacing? Where are you guys buying the whole unit (brakes and magnet) from?

Shaun

It's cheaper and easier to replace the entire backing plate with the magnets pads and all already put together , you cut the wires and pull 4 bolts and your rocking and rolling , your pic makes me wanna say that magnet is shot anyway , it's been rubbed through pretty good and the wires are in the center of that . The backing plates are sold in 2 sizes 10" and 12" yours looks to be the larger of the 2 . I get them direct from ebay .

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Trailer brakes are not self adjusting. I adjust my brakes 2 times a year on my trailers i use alot.

Here is a picture with all the brake compentents labeled.

First, put the tire back on.

Jack up trailer and secure on adequate capacity jack stands. Check that the wheel and drum rotate freely.

Remove the adjusting hole cover from the adjusting slot on the bottom of the brake backing plate.

With a screw driver or standard adjusting tool, rotate the starwheel of the adjuster assembly to expand the brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the pressure of the linings against the drum makes the wheel very difficult to turn.

Here is a video showing you how.

[video=youtube_share;9Tf1Bc526zE]http://youtu.be/9Tf1Bc526zE[/video]

As far as the magnets go. They dont look to bad from the pictures.

You can get the brake assemblys from most places that sell trailer parts.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

It's cheaper and easier to replace the entire backing plate with the magnets pads and all already put together , you cut the wires and pull 4 bolts and your rocking and rolling , your pic makes me wanna say that magnet is shot anyway , it's been rubbed through pretty good and the wires are in the center of that . The backing plates are sold in 2 sizes 10" and 12" yours looks to be the larger of the 2 . I get them direct from ebay .

I dont think that magnets warn out yet. The backing plates are sold in about 20 different sizes, it all depends on your axle weight.

Another place to get them from is trailer parts super store.com

If it was me, I would adjust them, and run them for a while longer. Then i would replace the drums, bearings, bearing nut, brake assemble all at the same time.

 

[stihl023/5]

Your shoes still have life in them adjust them first and see if that helps.

 

[treeclimber101]

I dont think that magnets warn out yet. The backing plates are sold in about 20 different sizes, it all depends on your axle weight.

Another place to get them from is trailer parts super store.com

If it was me, I would adjust them, and run them for a while longer. Then i would replace the drums, bearings, bearing nut, brake assemble all at the same time.

On a chipper with a to torflex axle there's only 2 a ten and a twelve . And there all dexter maybe , again maybe a be bendix or a r Dayton but that's pretty unlikely .

 

[Grouchy old man]

Thanks guys,
Got it wired up today and everything works fine. The tekonsha unit is great, bu unfortunately only available as a 12V unit. I wanted to add some other stuff at the same time, so rather than just using a step down converter I added a 3rd battery, 24v-12v charger, wiring into the cab, and associatied cables, fuses, relays etc to run the brake controller, reversing cam, 12V cigarette lighter plug, GPS, stereo etc. The brakes all work just fine, but they're not as powerful as they ought to be. You can adjust the brake controller for both maximum output and sensitivity, and the idea is to drive up the street, hit the manual lever and adjust the maximum output until it *not quite* locks up. Then you set the sensitivity according to your load. The unit has a G force sensor, so if you lightly touch the brakes, it does the same, and if you slam them on, it goes straight to maximum force.

Unfortunately, even with the output at maximum it doesn't lock up. How do you know if the magnets need replacing? Where are you guys buying the whole unit (brakes and magnet) from?

Shaun

So let's get this straight. Are you saying that your truck has a 24 volt electrical system and you rigged an auxiliary 12 volt system for the brake controller and some other things? Then you say that the brakes work just fine but are not as powerful as they ought to be? Are the brakes 12 or 24 volt? If they are 24 volt and you hit them with 12 you can expect them to be weak.

 

[OCTJ]

So let's get this straight. Are you saying that your truck has a 24 volt electrical system and you rigged an auxiliary 12 volt system for the brake controller and some other things? Then you say that the brakes work just fine but are not as powerful as they ought to be? Are the brakes 12 or 24 volt? If they are 24 volt and you hit them with 12 you can expect them to be weak.

Good question.

 

[treemandan]

Jesus dude! Do you mind getting yer foot out from under that thing?

 

[Eq Broker]

Brakes

Hi Shaun,

Most of the manufacturers in our industry use Dexter axles and I believe this axle is the same. There should be a serial number tag on the axle itself.

I can get the parts that you need at a reasonable price.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters

 

[imagineero]

Jesus dude! Do you mind getting yer foot out from under that thing?

Relax Dan, they're steel caps ;-)

Got it sorted today guys. I should have been a bit clearer on the whole wiring bit. Not sure how it is in the states, but over here trucks are all 24V, and most truck trailers are too. No idea why, but all our chippers which come from the same place yours do are all 12V. I'm guessing yours are too? So most guys have stepdown transformers for lights etc, and multiple plugs at the back of their truck for different trailers/plugs they use. Yeah, mine's a 12V. I converted all the 12V lighting in the chipper to 24V, but the brakes will stay 12V. The electric brakes are controlled by 12V from the truck (stepdown and battery, converter), but the breakaway is powered by the chippers 12V battery. Not sure how you guys do it over there. Are those big F trucks 12V?

So I adjusted the little clicky thing on the drums and they lock up on demand now Had to wind the power back a little on the brake controller. Thanks for all the advice, helpful as always!

Shaun

 

[OCTJ]

Most things in the states are 12 volt.

 

[OCTJ]

Good to hear that you got things sorted out.

 

[Grouchy old man]

So I adjusted the little clicky thing on the drums...

We always called them star wheels and every vehicle had them back in the days before disc brakes. I still have that tool around someplace.

With the exception of some 24 volt starting systems on some really big diesel equipment, 12 volts is the standard here. Used to be 6 volts back in the 50's and earlier. Betcha there are still some old chuck-and-ducks around with 6 volt systems. :msp_scared: