choosing -chinee- coil replacement anyone's experience

[unknwn]

There is an endless supply of ignition coils ( & kits) available for euro-saws (Partner/husqv , Stihl) available from far east manufacturers.
I've seen an either/or (??) going on with supply being either black -or- aqua green in plastics coloration, and the green ones generally being a few-to-four bucks more expensive.
Anyone out there have experiences with this stuff? Genuine euro production tends toward prohibitively expensive, where $12-16 for a chinee copy might be worth a gamble.

 

[alderman]

I replaced one coil awhile back with the cheapee one and it works fine.


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[Andyshine77]

At the price point you can buy a couple. I've had a few sometimes they don't fit perfectly and a small amount of grinding is necessary. A few I've had were DOA, a few wouldn't ground out when you try and shut the saw down, and they tend to fail soner. But at the price the can and do work and get a saw going, very little to loose. When I can I do try and fined OEM, but those can fail too.

 

[Czed]

I've got 9 of the bat country
372 8.00 coils in ported saws
In 4 year's only one has failed.

 

[Bedford T]

A knockoff coil is worth it only if you never get frustrated when your saw will not start or cuts off after you get to work. Stuff is really risen in price whether it's a coil or a chain or whatever and I guess it makes the cheap ones more attractive. I'm to the point if it's in the fuel circuit whether electrically or liquid it's OEM or nothing. Cuz I do get frustrated. On a magnesium case taking a coil on and off repeatedly you're a lot safer than if it's a plastic case and you're torquing that screw down repeatedly changing out bad coils; you're going to have a bad result down the line when you strip out one of those screws that hold the coil. There's really more to think about than the cost of the coil.

 

[BrettS]

A coil is a coil, not everybody has the money to buy an OEM coil, more so if someone just wants a saw running.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I am not a fan of cheap AM parts but a fellow lives close wanted to try a AM coil on his Jonsered 2065 , he`s cheap and doesn`t cut all that much. I got him a coil and its done some serious cutting this fall season. For about 1/3 of what an OEM one costs he figures if it lasts him one season he is ahead of the game. Me, fix it once and be done with it.

 

[Old2stroke]

Good and bad. I've replaced OEM coils with AM on a few Stihl saws with excellent results, still running fine after a couple of years so far. Have also used AM coils on Poulan saws and if you can get the right one, they seem to last, but then these saws don't get a lot of use. Problem can be getting the right coil, I have recently tried 3 different AM coils for a PR5020 and they were all wrong with the same fault, timing was so retarded the spark was after TDC.

 

[TheTone]

Anyone have a source for these coils? I have a failing MS201TC (M-tronic) coil. Farmertec.com doesn't have them. On ebay they want $38+ for AM coils and up to $95 for Stihl.

 

[DND 9000]

You can only buy the OEM one. There is no aftermarket version of these control units existing.

 

[TheTone]

So the M-tronic has a different coil? If so, do you know the part number?

 

[Andyshine77]

I am not a fan of cheap AM parts but a fellow lives close wanted to try a AM coil on his Jonsered 2065 , he`s cheap and doesn`t cut all that much. I got him a coil and its done some serious cutting this fall season. For about 1/3 of what an OEM one costs he figures if it lasts him one season he is ahead of the game. Me, fix it once and be done with it.

I'm mostly a fix it once person as well.

Now when I said OEM I'm also including used OEM coils, so far I've had good look with used ones, as long as they look to be in good shape they have worked for me.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I'm mostly a fix it once person as well.

Now when I said OEM I'm also including used OEM coils, so far I've had good look with used ones, as long as they look to be in good shape they have worked for me.

Believe me, I`ll use a used OEM coil before even thinking about an AM one but some people want what they want. On my own saws it is never an issue, no one to argue with about it, I have amassed such a spare parts inventory, both OEM , NOS and good used that I will have no need to source out parts from elsewhere til my cutting days are over..

 

[TheTone]

I'm mostly a fix it once person as well.

Now when I said OEM I'm also including used OEM coils, so far I've had good look with used ones, as long as they look to be in good shape they have worked for me.

I would only buy a new coil, OEM or AM. My failing coil looks great (Billy Crystal voice: You wook maahvelous), but it quits after about 15 minutes of cutting. Wondering if MS201TC M-tronic takes a different coil from non-M-tronic.

 

[SteveSr]

Anyone have a source for these coils? I have a failing MS201TC (M-tronic) coil. Farmertec.com doesn't have them. On ebay they want $38+ for AM coils and up to $95 for Stihl.

How is it failing? How do you know that it is the coil?

The M-tronic coil also has the computer in it to run the carburetor solenoid (as well as diagnostics).

Speaking of diagnostics... Some faults will cut off spark to keep from damaging the motor or exceeding pollution limits. I would go over the wiring harness with a fine tooth comb and a good ohmmeter before replacing a coil.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I have used dozens of Chinese dumb coils like 000 400 1300. Never any problems.
But, I would have reservations about an M Tronic.

 

[paetersen]

^^^ what he said. Local stihl dealer wanted $89.00 for a coil. wouldn't sell me a used one, for a 35 year old saw I got for free. The 400 1300 coil was used in dozens of saws, and a cheapy one was $9.50 shipped and works great.

 

[TheTone]

How is it failing? How do you know that it is the coil?

The M-tronic coil also has the computer in it to run the carburetor solenoid (as well as diagnostics).

Speaking of diagnostics... Some faults will cut off spark to keep from damaging the motor or exceeding pollution limits. I would go over the wiring harness with a fine tooth comb and a good ohmmeter before replacing a coil.

Just an educated guess. Yes, I checked the tank vent. My plan was to run it til it quit and then check the spark. Haven't done that yet. Probably should do that before posting, but I wanted to know if the M-tronic used a different coil. I would be grateful for info on how to test it, other than the above. Hint: it failed when using it beyond the usual arborist usage - cutting limbs burying the bar without pausing (it was the only saw I had in that location).

 

[unknwn]

So does anyone have anything to say about the green ones versus the black ones?
The aqua green colored type look really similar to OE (kinda flat-sided, and same? color) where-as the black ones
-seem- like they might be a more rounded profile.
Both type/color are advertised for the application K650/K700 Partner cut off saw, and the black ones tend to be a few-to-five dollars cheaper.
I'm pretty certain that the earliest K650/700 saws mounted the coil on the engine case, and my type (Active ll & lll) bolt it onto the cylinder. The mounting screw placement is the same (or close enough)..
Seems as if best bet is going to stick with the green-nearly exactly like OE ones for the few-to-five dollars more, and look for a seller's willingness to warrant against DOA & outright failure

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Just an educated guess. Yes, I checked the tank vent. My plan was to run it til it quit and then check the spark. Haven't done that yet. Probably should do that before posting, but I wanted to know if the M-tronic used a different coil. I would be grateful for info on how to test it, other than the above. Hint: it failed when using it beyond the usual arborist usage - cutting limbs burying the bar without pausing (it was the only saw I had in that location).

Throw a spark tester on it and run it until it dies.