Chosing saw for new property and possibly milling

[JKope88]

New to the forum and chainsaws but eager to get started.

Just got new property and there's a decent amount of trees that are going to need to get managed and/or cleared to make usable gardening space.

Trying to make a final decision on a saw. For now it will be a one to rule them all approach so need something well rounded and capable. Also looking at milling some of the trees.

Was seriously considering one of the Chinese Stihl 660 clones. What do you guys think? Any advice or recommendations? Will be getting PPE as well so recommendations on that as well would be great! Thanks in advance.

 

[Slicksty6]

What caliber of trees will you be cutting/milling?
Are you using the saw for pruning AND removing AND milling?
What Species of trees are these?

If you're cutting 14" birch its one thing but if they are 40" red oak, something different.
I'd stay away from any chinese clones - you get what you pay for.
Buy once, cry once I always say. A good saw will last you for years with proper maintenance.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Also, what is your physical condition? Can you handle a heavier saw like the 660 for extended periods? Sounds like you may need a two-saw plan, but as already said, it depends on type and size of the trees involved and your abilities.

 

[JKope88]

What caliber of trees will you be cutting/milling?
Are you using the saw for pruning AND removing AND milling?
What Species of trees are these?

If you're cutting 14" birch its one thing but if they are 40" red oak, something different.
I'd stay away from any chinese clones - you get what you pay for.
Buy once, cry once I always say. A good saw will last you for years with proper maintenance.

Yeah I'm definitely putting the cart before the horse here. Looking through the reviewing the property pictures, moving in soon, there's a lot of very tall thinner trees and less large diameter ones. Which is big part of why some of them need to come down as they shade almost the entire yard where the gardens will go.

I'll have to see what all species are on the property. But this would be used for everything, bringing em down, bucking, limbing, etc. I just like the idea of never having too "little saw." But that's why I'm here to ask. Thanks for the reply.

 

[JKope88]

Also, what is your physical condition? Can you handle a heavier saw like the 660 for extended periods? Sounds like you may need a two-saw plan, but as already said, it depends on type and size of the trees involved and your abilities.

I won't be running for super long periods and am likely in good enough shape to do a day with a heavier saw. That said it maybe unnecessary.

I know that with experienced professionals you can probably make a smaller saw do a lot more or just have one for each purpose. I won't be able to go much past a two saw set up and definitely not if I go Stihl, which seems to be by far the best. This is why I am considering Chinese clones as they won't see daily use but seem competent for a property use saw.

 

[sean donato]

Plan on getting 2 saws. Running a 90+cc saw all day on pecker poles sucks. Did it more then a few times. Depending on your expectations and tree size either go the 50-70 cc route or 60-90cc route. I prefer the latter. Either will set up have a noticeable jump in power from small to large saw. If you're intent on milling the 60 and 90 would be the better choice imo.

 

[JKope88]

Plan on getting 2 saws. Running a 90+cc saw all day on pecker poles sucks. Did it more then a few times. Depending on your expectations and tree size either go the 50-70 cc route or 60-90cc route. I prefer the latter. Either will set up have a noticeable jump in power from small to large saw. If you're intent on milling the 60 and 90 would be the better choice imo.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I think I'm probably going to be able to get by with less saw than I think. Is there a sweet spot for being able to run a longer bar so you're not constantly bent over for limbing and bucking but also are not into a real heavy saw?

I will probably wind up with two saws eventually. So to start this first will probably be for cut up fallen trees or felling dead trees. Looks like most of what's on the property is tall and on the thinner side. Not yet sure of what type of trees.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I would start with something like a Stihl 261. This saw with a 18-20" bar will do a LOT. Keep the chains sharp and fuel fresh.


Down the road when you're ready to start milling you should look into something like a Stihl 660/661 or a Husky 395.


One saw for doing everything from cleanup to milling just isn't feasible. Unless you're only planning on milling very small stuff and only once in a great while. If you plan on actually building structures from your milled wood, forget about a chainsaw mill. You're going to want to invest in a bandsaw mill. Milling with a chainsaw is excruciatingly slow and hard on saws/chains/fuel/etc. Not to mention it's hard on you. A bandsaw mill might be expensive up front, however, you will get done 20x faster and you can sell the mill when you're done. A chainsaw after milling a ton of wood won't be worth much...if it survives.

 

[JKope88]

I would start with something like a Stihl 261. This saw with a 18-20" bar will do a LOT. Keep the chains sharp and fuel fresh.


Down the road when you're ready to start milling you should look into something like a Stihl 660/661 or a Husky 395.


One saw for doing everything from cleanup to milling just isn't feasible. Unless you're only planning on milling very small stuff and only once in a great while. If you plan on actually building structures from your milled wood, forget about a chainsaw mill. You're going to want to invest in a bandsaw mill. Milling with a chainsaw is excruciatingly slow and hard on saws/chains/fuel/etc. Not to mention it's hard on you. A bandsaw mill might be expensive up front, however, you will get done 20x faster and you can sell the mill when you're done. A chainsaw after milling a ton of wood won't be worth much...if it survives.

The mill would just be for roughing out stuff around the property or for my son who does random woodworking. Honestly it's super secondary.

Most of the stuff on the property will be used for firewood and property maintenance/removing dead/ dangerous trees is my main concern upon move in followed by allowing a bit more sunlight onto what will be my wife's garden area.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply.

 

[Mad Professor]

How much experience do you have running chain saws? Running a 90cc saw all day requires excellent conditioning and a lot of saw experience. Besides the fact it can hurt you.

If none, get a quality 50 or 60cc saw to start with. Get used to running and maintaining the saw and go from there.

I won't buy chi-com stuff even if I pay more.

 

[JKope88]

How much experience do you have running chain saws? Running a 90cc saw all day requires excellent conditioning and a lot of saw experience. Besides the fact it can hurt you.

If none, get a quality 50 or 60cc saw to start with. Get used to running and maintaining the saw and go from there.

I won't buy chi-com stuff even if I pay more.

Yeah I've been thoroughly talked out of the 90cc saw. Definitely going to go with something more in the mid cc range.

As far as the China stuff goes. I will spend more funds on American made when that's a real option, Origin Maine, American Giant clothes, etc. As far as saws go there no real high road option. I truly believe Stihl saws are probably the best available but it's a German company that uses international parts. If China can sell me Stihl's last gen saw for a third of the price then so be it. I'm no fan of China but if we threw out everything in our houses and lives that's from China we'd have a real problem. There's a balance.

 

[Seachaser]

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I think I'm probably going to be able to get by with less saw than I think. Is there a sweet spot for being able to run a longer bar so you're not constantly bent over for limbing and bucking but also are not into a real heavy saw?

I will probably wind up with two saws eventually. So to start this first will probably be for cut up fallen trees or felling dead trees. Looks like most of what's on the property is tall and on the thinner side. Not yet sure of what type of trees.

Get a 65-70 cc with a 24” bar. Or a smaller saw with a 20” bar. Then a big saw for milling. Personally, I would stay away from the Chinese saws unless you’re mechanically inclined. Stihl, Husqvarna, or Echo at your nearest dealer. That’s just my opinion from running saws in a similar situation.

 

[Mad Professor]

Yeah I've been thoroughly talked out of the 90cc saw. Definitely going to go with something more in the mid cc range.

As far as the China stuff goes. I will spend more funds on American made when that's a real option, Origin Maine, American Giant clothes, etc. As far as saws go there no real high road option. I truly believe Stihl saws are probably the best available but it's a German company that uses international parts. If China can sell me Stihl's last gen saw for a third of the price then so be it. I'm no fan of China but if we threw out everything in our houses and lives that's from China we'd have a real problem. There's a balance.

I'm partial to older saws you can Stihl work on without dealer support.

We don't have a "good" Stihl dealer nearby anymore, he retired from a 2 man shop years ago. The other dealers didn't have a 3/8" med spline rim sprocket in stock......for a 30 mile radius.

A 036/361 (60cc) or 044/440 (70cc) if you can find good used. Those are getting harder to find not beat to crap. I don't have a 044 as too many good running rebuilt 038M/038M conversions in hand.

A good 026/260 to get started is also a good option. Again a good one, not a POS.

 

[JKope88]

I'm partial to older saws you can Stihl work on without dealer support.

We don't have a "good" Stihl dealer nearby anymore, he retired from a 2 man shop years ago. The other dealers didn't have a 3/8" med spline rim sprocket in stock......for a 30 mile radius.

A 036/361 (60cc) or 044/440 (70cc) if you can find good used. Those are getting harder to find not beat to crap. I don't have a 044 as too many good running rebuilt 038M/038M conversions in hand.

A good 026/260 to get started is also a good option. Again a good one, not a POS.

Greatly appreciate the advice. I like the idea of getting a well maintained known quantity. The only downside is people think that their beat up Stihls should still be 75% of original price after 3-5 years of use.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Sounds like a perfect case for the Echo 590.

 

[JKope88]

Sounds like a perfect case for the Echo 590.

Haven't heard much excitement over echo saws. Please tell me more.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Haven't heard much excitement over echo saws. Please tell me more.

It's the Morakniv Companion, Corona handsaw, Toyota Corolla of saws. Really surprising that much tool is available at that price in this day and age.

Read around, they're popular.

 

[thompsoncustom]

I agree with a lot of the others on running 2 saws like a 50cc and a 90cc. I have a heavily modified ms260 that I grab more than anything else because it's so light and will keep up with even the bigger saws in 16in wood.

As far as the china saws go I've had a couple now all farmertec/holzfforma ones and they have all been great. My china clone 660 i've had for about 4 years now and I had a expansion pipe on it pushing close to 12hp for 1 of those years and it's been completely fine and problem free. Most people that comment on these saws have never ran one and there impossible to beat for the money invested.

Now that being said running a 90cc all day is a work out and if you can run a smaller lighter saw you will want to. The ms261 would make a good saw to get started.

 

[JKope88]

I agree with a lot of the others on running 2 saws like a 50cc and a 90cc. I have a heavily modified ms260 that I grab more than anything else because it's so light and will keep up with even the bigger saws in 16in wood.

As far as the china saws go I've had a couple now all farmertec/holzfforma ones and they have all been great. My china clone 660 i've had for about 4 years now and I had a expansion pipe on it pushing close to 12hp for 1 of those years and it's been completely fine and problem free. Most people that comment on these saws have never ran one and there impossible to beat for the money invested.

Now that being said running a 90cc all day is a work out and if you can run a smaller lighter saw you will want to. The ms261 would make a good saw to get started.

I like the 261 recommendation. Thanks cause as soon as I started looking of course I found this
https://ripsaw.shop/products/ripsaw...eEJ5pvN5dBZzD0JAbPMrQr-KILJmO_dEaAgSDEALw_wcB

Which of course I don't NEED but ya know I like nice things lol.

The thread has definitely been good for me to check my ideas of what I actually need based on people who actually do this regularly and have experience.

 

[fields_mj]

First, you asked about a long bar. How long are you thinking? What is the approximate diameter of the trees you'll be working with? That's one of the biggest things that will feed into how big of a saw you will NEED to take down those trees.

Clearing trees means long days of hard work. Its one thing to go spend a few hours cutting a truckload of firewood. For stuff like that, almost any saw will work. When you're going to be working at it all day long, that's when the pro-saws (more power, less weight) are worth the extra money, and an MS261 is a great pro-saw to start on. That said, $1400 USD is WAY WAY WAY too much money to put into any 50cc saw. At that price point, you're almost into a new 70cc to 90cc saw.

Honestly, if you can find an MS261 that's seen light to moderate use, there's no reason not to that route and save a little more money. The classifieds adds on this forum has probably been the BEST source for used saws I've ever come across. I bought my 026, and both of my 036 saws used (many years ago) for less than $300 each (only the 026 was from this forum), but (as you've said) most people want a mint for their worn out old pro-saws which is what pushes me towards the clones.

You'll get a lot of opinions on here about the Chinese clones. I have a G660, and absolutely love it. I run a 28" bar on it most of the time, and I have a 41" bar that I've had to use on a couple of trees including a LARGE red oak that died in my yard. With that said, if you buy a clone you WILL need to work on it before you even start the saw. Once the necessary upgrades are completed, they are a very cost effective option for someone that only needs one for limited use.

One other think to think about is that felling the tree is, by far, the most dangerous part of the process, and the more things there are for the tree to get hung up on, hit on the way down, or land on, the more tricky it becomes. Depending on how things are on this property, it might be worth having someone someone else get them on the ground for you. A trip to the ER gets expensive, and coffins ain't cheap either.