Chunking a big cedar

[Greener]

I am getting ready to top and chunk down a big cedar (western red) that is about 40 inches or so DBH. But it is old growth and stays pretty big around most the way up. I have to take it down in sections to about the midpoint and most of the trunk I will cut is about 24-30". I don't want to haul the heavy 460 up with a 28" or 32" bar if I don't have to. Can I get away with a 036 with a 24" bar and walk through it down further when the trunk gets bigger to about 28"? Or should I just go with the heavier saw so I can cut straight through? The wood is super soft and a chisel chain powers through pretty quick. Thanks.

 

[B Harrison]

Sounds like you need a new saw too?

Now that I have CAD, I feel alone and want others to suffer with me.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

I am getting ready to top and chunk down a big cedar (western red) that is about 40 inches or so DBH. But it is old growth and stays pretty big around most the way up. I have to take it down in sections to about the midpoint and most of the trunk I will cut is about 24-30". I don't want to haul the heavy 460 up with a 28" or 32" bar if I don't have to. Can I get away with a 036 with a 24" bar and walk through it down further when the trunk gets bigger to about 28"? Or should I just go with the heavier saw so I can cut straight through? The wood is super soft and a chisel chain powers through pretty quick. Thanks.

If you know how to run a saw, you should be able to cut down a 47-48" diameter piece with that 24" bar.

 

[Guran]

In extreme situations it's possible to cut even more than twice you bar lenght.
A picture of how that is done below....

View attachment 260496

 

[thepheniox]

I would use a bigger saw just to make the cutting faster. Trade off weight on saddle vs time on saddle. When it comes to chunking down pieces I want to get down as fast as possible.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

I would use a bigger saw just to make the cutting faster. Trade off weight on saddle vs time on saddle. When it comes to chunking down pieces I want to get down as fast as possible.

When i am climbing, I will use a smaller saw a little longer, then when i am in the bucket.

 

[Greener]

Sounds like you need a new saw too?

Now that I have CAD, I feel alone and want others to suffer with me.

I have gotten by with a 192t, 260, 460 and 660. I did go with the 200t for a while but have found it the extra weight not worth it and I just go to the 26 when the wood gets bigger. I am realizing I need to invest in a 36 because it is more versatile with the power/weight ratio.

 

[Greener]

If you know how to run a saw, you should be able to cut down a 47-48" diameter piece with that 24" bar.

Amen. You are right on, and I think you just confirmed what I may have known already. Especially because I usually cut softwood. In hardwood, it isn't just the diameter, but the amount of time it takes to get through it with the shorter bar and less cc's. Thanks.

 

[beastmaster]

Amen. You are right on, and I think you just confirmed what I may have known already. Especially because I usually cut softwood. In hardwood, it isn't just the diameter, but the amount of time it takes to get through it with the shorter bar and less cc's. Thanks.

I have doubled cut a lot of trees and I hate it. It means you have to travel to both sides of the tree for each cut, that takes twice as long, you have to line up the cuts, bla, bla and so on. If you can get a bigger saw get it. use your smaller saw while you can, then switch to the bigger saw when the diameter gets bigger. You could maybe get away with just getting a longer bar for the saw you have if all you cutting is soft wood.

 

[Carburetorless]

Fewer cuts = safer, faster, and easier.

 

[no tree to big]

a 460 is not that heavy suck it up :msp_razz: 660 still not that bad now if you need to climb with an 880 then you can whine WHILE your doing it

 

[Greener]

a 460 is not that heavy suck it up :msp_razz: 660 still not that bad now if you need to climb with an 880 then you can whine WHILE your doing it

I was waiting for a "no bs" response, and yours is it! Lots of good feedback here on the "speed through the wood vs. weight in the tree" argument. You are definitely a "speed through the wood" proponent. I like it.

 

[TreeGuyHR]

If it was me, I would definitely use a small topping saw and then switch to my Stihl 361 or 046. Also, you say "chunking", but given that it is old growth cedar, why not cut longer (say 8.5 ft. or 10.5, or whatever length shingle mills might take) ? Take a loggers tape up with you so you don't have to guess; a log that is too short could be useless.

Someone would want the short logs, and you make fewer cuts. Logs this size can be easily moved with a bumper winch and line, if run through a block (pulley).

Have your ground crew send up a line so that they can help to pull over the logs. Also remember to move the logs to the side as you go -- one hitting another can cause the top log to "launch" into a nearby target. Of course, if you can't impact the ground with big pieces, it may be a no-go. You might tell the owner that the logs could be sold, which would more than cover the cost of a little sod or a squashed laurel.

 

[Greener]

If it was me, I would definitely use a small topping saw and then switch to my Stihl 361 or 046. Also, you say "chunking", but given that it is old growth cedar, why not cut longer (say 8.5 ft. or 10.5, or whatever length shingle mills might take) ? Take a loggers tape up with you so you don't have to guess; a log that is too short could be useless.

Someone would want the short logs, and you make fewer cuts. Logs this size can be easily moved with a bumper winch and line, if run through a block (pulley).

Have your ground crew send up a line so that they can help to pull over the logs. Also remember to move the logs to the side as you go -- one hitting another can cause the top log to "launch" into a nearby target. Of course, if you can't impact the ground with big pieces, it may be a no-go. You might tell the owner that the logs could be sold, which would more than cover the cost of a little sod or a squashed laurel.

Good call on the mill length thing. Ironically, this lady lives in a rural county that is loaded with mills and loggers and no one wants it. Definitely marketable timber too. Drop zone is big and just a brush area, so easy money. And the pieces will just sit and rot. I will leave some lengths, though, just in case.

 

[Greener]

a 460 is not that heavy suck it up :msp_razz: 660 still not that bad now if you need to climb with an 880 then you can whine WHILE your doing it

Yeah, 460's are great. It's adding the 30 plus inch bar that gets heavy after 4 or six cuts in big wood.

 

[no tree to big]

Yeah, 460's are great. It's adding the 30 plus inch bar that gets heavy after 4 or six cuts in big wood.

idk maybe join a gym? this is only over 4-6 cuts? we just did a tree where the climber was up for think it was 7 hours with a 660 with a 36" bar in a monster cottonwood, for just the logs, was brushed out the day before by another crew to get it ready for us the "A team" haha we are "crew A" so you know A team sounds better

 

[Stayalert]

I am puny and weak I like my 192....I'm wondering if I could even start my 660 off the ground

 

[TreeGuyHR]

Yeah, 460's are great. It's adding the 30 plus inch bar that gets heavy after 4 or six cuts in big wood.

Gets a wee bit heavy over time the same day, but done on enough days, it gets lighter! Funny, that. Benefit : you can enjoy cream pie and beer, for a snack, and not gain weight.

I got a dirty look from a woman recently in the supermarket: i was holding a chocolate cream pie and trying to make a selection in the beer aisle; I snagged a 12 pack of IPA and she said: Beer and pie!? I said, sure, why not? This really did happen!

pics of me with my 200T and 046 up a fir tree:

View attachment 261843

View attachment 261842

 

[beastmaster]

idk maybe join a gym? this is only over 4-6 cuts? we just did a tree where the climber was up for think it was 7 hours with a 660 with a 36" bar in a monster cottonwood, for just the logs, was brushed out the day before by another crew to get it ready for us the "A team" haha we are "crew A" so you know A team sounds better

Don't want to get in no pissing contest, but I recently spent over 10 hours in a big ass pondarosa on spikes with a 660 not even breaking for lunch. I'm a weak old man too. :msp_biggrin:What the mind can conceive, the body can achieve. Worse part of that job was having to double cut the last 10 cuts or so. Having to switch sides to finish the cuts with those gaffs hurting like hell on my legs was pure torture. Man up and get that 660 with a long bar up that tree, believe me you can do it. It's like weight lifting if you don't increase the weight, you won't get stronger.
Your doing some nice sized trees, you got that down, now match the saw to the tree your cutting.

 

[St. John]

a 460 is not that heavy suck it up :msp_razz: 660 still not that bad now if you need to climb with an 880 then you can whine WHILE your doing it

I have climbed with an old 084. How old?? It had the oiler at the thumb. we ran a 60 inch bar for big stuff. Not fun chunkin, but I would agree with the "take the biggest saw you can" approach.

You don't want to be up in a tree whittling stuff down to a toothpick for ever.