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time warp

ArboristSite Operative
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Jun 30, 2008
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I was dropping trees on a friends property & bucking up the wood. I had a good size tree on the ground & was cutting the tops off when the tree rolled toward me. My 09 was coming right up at me but the chain brake engaged & I threw the saw off to the side.
I was not harmed but it did remind me that even though the tree is on the ground it can still come after you.
Be safe out there !!
 
I had a scare but of a different kind 2 days ago. Was out cutting and backed my truck up to position it to pull a log with a tug strap for a better cut. Ran over something and realized for a second I didnt remember where I left my 394XP. Panicked and bolted from the truck to find the saw 10 feet away to the side, I ran over a cut piece of wood. My heart sank for about 10 seconds there....gonna double check that stuff from now on.....:dizzy:
 
Stuff happens! Last time out I was limbing and bucking limbs. Finished one cut, took one step to the side, foot landed on an old chunk buried in the grass, I went down with a running saw (chain stopped but brake not on), dropped it. When the uproar ceased I was on my back with the bar right at my neck.

Harry K
 
My cows give me a little trouble; they seem to wanna go stand right where the maple tree is going to hit the ground. What was that game? Three flies and your'e out?

Delimbing last week my 610 binded in a 40 footer, while trying to work it out, I cracked the aluminum housing where the handle trunion extends from by the carb/filter housing. JB cold weld!

I have a habbit of cutting below the wedge too. My wrists are weak; I let the bar tip downward, probably miss 4 out of 5. The trees seem to be rolling a little off the stump...But I'm getting better at it.
 
As long as we're going off topic - Yesterday I'm nailing up barn siding, some old dry HARD yellow pine I had saved. One ring shank nail snapped in two when I hit it, the half with the head pinging off my safety glasses. I used to think those glasses were for candy-asses until 20+ years ago when I almost took out an eyeball with a screwdriver. Stay safe -
 
As long as we're going off topic - Yesterday I'm nailing up barn siding, some old dry HARD yellow pine I had saved. One ring shank nail snapped in two when I hit it, the half with the head pinging off my safety glasses. I used to think those glasses were for candy-asses until 20+ years ago when I almost took out an eyeball with a screwdriver. Stay safe -
Finally found some safety glasses I like, dont fog up that don't make me look like Buddy Holly cutting wood: Winchester shooting glasses at Wally World $5!!
 
My cows give me a little trouble; they seem to wanna go stand right where the maple tree is going to hit the ground. What was that game? Three flies and your'e out?

Delimbing last week my 610 binded in a 40 footer, while trying to work it out, I cracked the aluminum housing where the handle trunion extends from by the carb/filter housing. JB cold weld!

I have a habbit of cutting below the wedge too. My wrists are weak; I let the bar tip downward, probably miss 4 out of 5. The trees seem to be rolling a little off the stump...But I'm getting better at it.

Are you leaving hinge wood or are you cutting straight through ?:confused:
 
"What is going to go where?"

That is the question I ask myself before bucking any limbs.

And sometimes I need to stare at the down tree for a bit to figure out the "order" in which I am going to cut the limbs off...

If I cut that limb, what is going to happen? Etc.

This can be quite complex. You have a down tree with a bunch of limbs up in the air, if you cut one side, it will alter the "balance" and it will roll. Or same with the other side.

Or with limbs on the ground supporting the tree or keeping the tree from rolling... If you cut these, the log may fall on your toes or the log may roll.

Then there is the "spring pole" which is a limb being bent way back. If you cut it, it could fly forward and smack you in the nose!

I guess the key words are "potential energy". Is there potential energy stored up? How can you safely release that potential energy?

I think because trees are all so different, there would not be any one set of rules which would cover all situations. I guess experience is the best thing!

For me though...

For limbs up in the air, I like to cut these first. Get rid of that potential energy. And I like to alternate sides. Cut one on this side, then one on the other side to keep the "balance of weight" the same on both sides. Maybe cut three smaller limbs on one side, then one large limb on the other side.

THEN I cut the limbs under the tree. Some of these are under great pressure as they are supporting the entire log on one side. For these and "spring poles", rather than making one cut and having everything suddenly go flying uncontrolled, I make a series of shallow cuts to slowly dissipate the energy.

Like the guy in this picture is doing...
spring.jpg


The limb slowly releases its energy.

Another trick, if the wood is for firewood, is to use an "open face cut". With this the "hinge wood" will keep the base of the tree attached to the stump. Leave that until last and it will keep the tree from rolling while you are bucking the limbs.

Here is an open face cut...
image038.jpg


Also if the tree remains attached to the stump, it will be up in the air as you work your way to the stump cutting. This will help to keep the chainsaw from touching the ground as you buck the log - speeds things up a bit.
 
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