Clutch bearing grease

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alderman

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Are most saws set up to take grease to the clutch bearing through a hole in the shaft or do you have to take off the clutch to get to the bearing?
 
Are most saws set up to take grease to the clutch bearing through a hole in the shaft or do you have to take off the clutch to get to the bearing?
You have to take the clutch hub off. And furthermore, most of the grease is flung off in only a day's time.

I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic, which seems to last 1 1/2 days.

Someone mentioned a high temp grease used for automotive brakes. One of these days I'll have to try that.
 
I always use white lithium grease and it useally last 3-4 days of cutting

Wow!!!!

We are talking about the "sprocket" bearing, correct????

Having a newby risk taking a clutch off just to grease that bearing is silly...

The only time you see one fail is when some foreign material gets wound in there, otherwise, they don't fail.
 
The only reason I ask is because the Shindaiwa's have a hole in the shaft that delivers grease to the bearing. Just kind of wondering how the other saws were set up.
 
Having a newby risk taking a clutch off just to grease that bearing is silly...

The only time you see one fail is when some foreign material gets wound in there, otherwise, they don't fail.
Fish, if Lakeside were here, he'd read the riot act to you. Actually, he'd read some Stihl tech memo to you.

The clutch bearing only spins when the saw is idling or when the saw bogs in the cut. And if the bearing does fail, it doesn't cost that much to replace......as long as it doesn't damage the shaft in the process, which has been known to happen.

I have had a clutch hub wear out at the bore, probably from running a dry bearing. Then again, replacing a clutch hub is not a big deal.

But if Lakeside were here .... :dizzy:
 
The only time I mess with them is if the drum won't free spin more than a turn. If it's rough turning after the saws have sat a month or more I clean it with brake parts cleaner and then dab some grease on it.
 
Some Huskies do, but it is kind of a "non" issue.

Greasing the sprocket bearing regularly, is like wearing garlic to ward off
vampires....
 
Never greased one unless the clutch was off for some other reason and never had one go bad but I'm not a Fact-to-ree trained chainsaw tech or a pro-fes-sion-al chainsaw operator. Just a farm boy who has been sawen a while.
 
Having seen the mess a dry sawdust caked clutch bearing can make, when milling, because it's easy to do so I clean the sprocket and clutch bearing on my 880/066/441 every second time I flip their bars which is every two milling days. With the 076 its more like every 10 full milling days.
 
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Fish, if Lakeside were here, he'd read the riot act to you. Actually, he'd read some Stihl tech memo to you.

The clutch bearing only spins when the saw is idling or when the saw bogs in the cut. And if the bearing does fail, it doesn't cost that much to replace......as long as it doesn't damage the shaft in the process, which has been known to happen.

I have had a clutch hub wear out at the bore, probably from running a dry bearing. Then again, replacing a clutch hub is not a big deal.

But if Lakeside were here .... :dizzy:

Which memo?
 
I only grease the clutch bearings if I have the clutch off for some reason - or if the squeak or feel dry. If you have the chain off, then spinning the clutch tells you about the state of the bearings.

I use copper based brake grease - high temperature and doesn't fling out. Seems to stay in for a long time.
 
:laugh: I dunno, I don't have access to them. Lake seemed to pull them out of thin air. :laugh:

Yeah, I read the thread. Lakeside recommended greasing the clutch bearing every single day on a milling saw. But that's Andy for you.

If he posted it here, then we would all have access to them.

Did you read the other "non-milling" threads?
 
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