coil test

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sixteenacrewood

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
57
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Location
hickory grove sc
I looked through the forum using the search feacher and have read up on what I could find else where.

Is there a way to test a coil? I have one that is encased in epoxy with only two connectors, the spark plug wire and the kill switch wire. Is the an ohm meter reading to tell if it is malfunctioning?

Also, can a bad coil cause a saw to idle normally but not rev up to full RPM?

any input would be helpful
Thanks
 
*feature*

I'm not sure of a test method, but I can attest to the RPM problem caused by a bad coil. I've had that happen. Short of a way to test them, I buy a replacement coil and return it if it doesn't solve the problem.
 
Thanks Mike. My saw idles fine but won't reach full rpm, I've checked all the usual culprits. Gass, plug, tank vent, carb, tuning, passed vacume test. just running out of things to replace.
 
Hate when that happens. Do you know anyone with the same saw that would let you borrow their coil real quick? Done that a couple times.
 
I looked through the forum using the search feacher and have read up on what I could find else where.

Is there a way to test a coil? I have one that is encased in epoxy with only two connectors, the spark plug wire and the kill switch wire. Is the an ohm meter reading to tell if it is malfunctioning?

Also, can a bad coil cause a saw to idle normally but not rev up to full RPM?

any input would be helpful
Thanks
A coil can idle but not rev \\\\\
*feature*

I'm not sure of a test method, but I can attest to the RPM problem caused by a bad coil. I've had that happen. Short of a way to test them, I buy a replacement coil and return it if it doesn't solve the problem.
How are you returning coils I was never able to do that?
 
I wish I knew someone with the same saw! it's a Dolmar the bigest one they make, I use it on my chainsaw mill.

Thanks Lonewolf.
I hate just throwing parts at a problem, but everything else is checking out fine and the coil looks to be original to the saw.

At $125 I really hate just replacing it without testing.
 
I looked through the forum using the search feacher and have read up on what I could find else where.

Is there a way to test a coil? I have one that is encased in epoxy with only two connectors, the spark plug wire and the kill switch wire. Is the an ohm meter reading to tell if it is malfunctioning?

Also, can a bad coil cause a saw to idle normally but not rev up to full RPM?

any input would be helpful
Thanks
Step back and give us the full story... Like the saw ran great and........
OR"I bought the saw at a sale, and it never ran right".....
Or, the saw ran great last year when we put it up.......
"my grandpa gave it to me a few years ago......"etc.....
 
Does it happen to have a Tilloston HS carburetor with a speed governor valve? I'm not real familiar with Dolmars, but Husky 2100's had them, and they would idle but not come up to full RPM.
 
Thanks Mike. My saw idles fine but won't reach full rpm, I've checked all the usual culprits. Gass, plug, tank vent, carb, tuning, passed vacume test. just running out of things to replace.

You didn't mention checking exhaust port/screen for being plugged with carbon. One of the first thing I do with that complaint.
 
Thanks everyone. The saw is a Dolmar ps-9010, older one, no primer bulb or compression release button.
I got the saw used in 2012, it had a 37" bar and new carb and fuel lines, ran great.
I used it on a 67" Alaskan mill for about 20 hrs run time before the piston fried, there was an induction leak on the rubber intake manifold.

I replaced the cylinder, piston, and intake, and have used the saw one to three days per week for two years without any problems at all. The saw has not sat idle for more than a month sense I got it. I am a full time artist/woodworker and ex aircraft mechanic.

In may 2014 I upgraded to a stationary Panther Pro mill, a chainsaw mill with a track and cairage like a band mill with a 42" bar. The saw cut like a dream for a few months, but started to act up, I thought, due to the sawdust discharge literally filling the carburetor housing. I had been removing the cover during operation to keep the air filter from clogging and was in the process of setting up a deflector to keep dust out of the housing when this problem started.
I thought the problem was in the carb, so I took it apart and cleaned it put it back together and it ran fine for a few hours. Same problem started again. Then it wouldn't start at all.
I took the saw completely apart and cleaned everything. She ran fine for a few hours then started messing up again. I did crack open the gas cap to see if the tank vent is clogged, checked the muffler too its clean empty and no screen, exhaust port is clean too.
I had been blowing out the carb with my compressor, 150 psi, a friend said that was a no no and I may have damaged the carb.
I got a used one off ebay put new diaphams and needle valve o rings on it (I had just done this to my old carb) and the saw ran fine for 45 mins of cutting, then same problem.

I had been tuning with a tach, but now that is now no op, so I don't know the current rpm. Everything seems to break in waves (I have 7 random orbit sanders and only 2 work at the moment)

So now I am here. Like I said earlier, I hate just throwing parts at a problem, so I thought I would see if any of you have any ideas or test procedures I could try.

Today is a heavy production day and an art market tomorrow, so Sunday Monday I plan to tear everything down and check each part, replace fuel and impulse lines, clean everything and put it back together.

This saw is a real work horse, lots of low end torque and cuts like a demon, I got it from someone who did not know anything about saws and I only paid $250 for it, so yes I do not mind dropping some more cash into it and get her back in service.

Thanks again for the input so far and any other help would be appreciated. I need to learn how to post photos here and I'll post some photos of my setup.
 
Thanks everyone. The saw is a Dolmar ps-9010, older one, no primer bulb or compression release button.
I got the saw used in 2012, it had a 37" bar and new carb and fuel lines, ran great.
I used it on a 67" Alaskan mill for about 20 hrs run time before the piston fried, there was an induction leak on the rubber intake manifold.

I replaced the cylinder, piston, and intake, and have used the saw one to three days per week for two years without any problems at all. The saw has not sat idle for more than a month sense I got it. I am a full time artist/woodworker and ex aircraft mechanic.

In may 2014 I upgraded to a stationary Panther Pro mill, a chainsaw mill with a track and cairage like a band mill with a 42" bar. The saw cut like a dream for a few months, but started to act up, I thought, due to the sawdust discharge literally filling the carburetor housing. I had been removing the cover during operation to keep the air filter from clogging and was in the process of setting up a deflector to keep dust out of the housing when this problem started.
I thought the problem was in the carb, so I took it apart and cleaned it put it back together and it ran fine for a few hours. Same problem started again. Then it wouldn't start at all.
I took the saw completely apart and cleaned everything. She ran fine for a few hours then started messing up again. I did crack open the gas cap to see if the tank vent is clogged, checked the muffler too its clean empty and no screen, exhaust port is clean too.
I had been blowing out the carb with my compressor, 150 psi, a friend said that was a no no and I may have damaged the carb.
I got a used one off ebay put new diaphams and needle valve o rings on it (I had just done this to my old carb) and the saw ran fine for 45 mins of cutting, then same problem.

I had been tuning with a tach, but now that is now no op, so I don't know the current rpm. Everything seems to break in waves (I have 7 random orbit sanders and only 2 work at the moment)

So now I am here. Like I said earlier, I hate just throwing parts at a problem, so I thought I would see if any of you have any ideas or test procedures I could try.

Today is a heavy production day and an art market tomorrow, so Sunday Monday I plan to tear everything down and check each part, replace fuel and impulse lines, clean everything and put it back together.

This saw is a real work horse, lots of low end torque and cuts like a demon, I got it from someone who did not know anything about saws and I only paid $250 for it, so yes I do not mind dropping some more cash into it and get her back in service.

Thanks again for the input so far and any other help would be appreciated. I need to learn how to post photos here and I'll post some photos of my setup.
Sounds like it could be the coil if it keeps doing it hot.
 
Easiest way to put up a pic here, is once you have loaded it on the computer, drag the pic/file to your desktop, then when you
make a post here, click on add a file, and click on "desktop" and add it, and load it.

As far as the saw, I very rarely see Dolmars. But 5 years ago, I had someone bring me 2 big Huskies, one was complete, the other in a big bucket in parts. He had the local Husky dealer work on it, and they got it running, somewhat, but finally gave up.

The saw started right up, and ran fine, it just wouldn't accelerate up to the rpms it should. One thing that was obvious was that it had a nice shiny new carb on it. I tinkered with it a bit, even tried swapping coils, and the owner said, yeah, the carb is brand
new, so that is not the problem.....
Did some looking on the internet, and discovered that it was a brand new carb, but for the cut-off version of the saw model.
So you might check the carb you have on yours and make sure that it is the correct one.
 
Thanks for all the input. About an hour ago I decided to just throw a bunch a parts at the problem. I run the crap out of this saw and a few extra parts wont hurt. I ordered the coil, another fuel tank vent sence I had only cleaned it so far. I plan to sit down and go over the whole saw as a rebuild/refurbish rather than a repair.
I'll post the results when she's done. The coil won't be in till Thursday.

Here is a cool photo of a 48 inch plus Magnolia I milled in down town Columbia SC last year. This is the saw that is giving me the problems.
And a big silver maplemilling the big magnolia.jpg starting the first cut.JPG starting the first cut.JPG
 
I don't see where you changed the fuel line?? It does sound like a coil, but a pinhole in a fuel line will let a saw idle and run fine at low speed, but when it goes under load, the carb can't maintain the vacuum on the fuel and the result is a break in the supply.
 
I can't add to saw ideas but see you're in Hickory Grove. I grew up in Gaffney. Good luck with saw.
 
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