Conventional Chimney vs Triple Wall Class A

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TreeTangler

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Alright guys and gals, I'll be tearing out my existing chimney this summer. It currently goes through the center of my two story home and ends in the kitchen on the first floor. If I have a new masonary chimney built, I would have it continued all the way to the basement. If I have a stainless triple wall put in, I would have it terminate at the kitchen ceiling and use stove pipe to connect to it in the kitchen. I have to admit that I'm not the well versed in alternatives to masonary chimneys. What are the pros and cons to each? Which would be the safer option? This will be used solely for the wood stove.
 
Im a fan of Class A. They are perfectly safe if installation instructions are followed. I think that it is a better long term investment with less maintenance than a Masonry chimney. They can be installed quickly and easily by any competent DIYer. It is disruptive and costly to have a new masonry chimney retrofitted into a house. Unless you needed another flue for a boiler or fireplace, I cant imagine doing it. Roof flashing and anything through the roof will likely be much less maintanance long term. Flue tile, bricks, mortar caps and lead flashing deteriorate. Class A's dont last forever, but I have never seen any good information on longevity that can be expected. Every sitution is different, however for a one flue woodstove hookup, I think it would be hard to beat a class A.
 
Thank you for your response. What you've explained is about the extent of the knowledge I have on one. It seems like only good things so far. Does anybody know the expected life of Class A?
 
I don't know how long the Class A will last, but mine is at least 15 yrs old and can't see any deterioration. The outside is stainless, I just added a 2' section this spring and looks the same as existing old parts. I will be replacing the cap before the next burn season as the rivets are getting loose because I take it off and on to clean the chimney.
 
I did hear of one removed about 30 years old that was in seemingly good shape but deteriorated while taking it apart. I did not see it but came from a somewhat reliable source. I think burning too hot consistently could damage it in the long term and thats what I think happened in this instance.
 
I don't know how long the Class A will last, but mine is at least 15 yrs old and can't see any deterioration. The outside is stainless, I just added a 2' section this spring and looks the same as existing old parts. I will be replacing the cap before the next burn season as the rivets are getting loose because I take it off and on to clean the chimney.
yup same here with the cap, they only last a few seasons, I keep a spare incase it breaks when I clean it..., the chimney it self though is in excellent shape, no issues at all!
 
I am a huge fan of the duravent / simpson pipe (packed pipe) which is high temp insulated solid pipe. Mine is 6" ID with a 1" high temp insulation ring therefore 8" OD. It will get to 200+F on the outside but remains very very clean on the inside since it holds heat. Not cheap but I think in the long run it is worth the $$$$$ over non insulated pipe.
 
The masonry chimney takes a long time to heat up and draft properly, and get above creosote condensing temperatures, or water and ice condensing at top. If you burn hot and continuous, no problem. It even acts as heat storage into the house. But if you burn low and lot of start stops, I am another vote for stainless. (I have single wall stainless inside an unlined old masonry chimney for both reasons the above posters noted: The old chimney was unlined at all, bad idea, and it was deteriorated in some joints. Stainless single wall solved both issues.. runs clean at low settings, easy to brush, and heat up quick)
 
My insulated stainless pipe is guaranteed for life, at least that's what it says on the box it came in. I don't know if anyone has collected on that guarantee or not? It also says "made in Canada" on the box...

All of my pipe, after many years, still looks like new...

SR
 
The class a and the double wall inside to the ceiling transition, dang sight cheaper than brick and mortar. it will give you better performance( proper size all the way), super simple cleaning ( bottom up or top down). And if you really want the brick look inside simple chase and your choice of thin brick dressing. Or perhaps an Alcove arrangement ( of course paying attention to proper clearances and such) possibilties are all most endless
 
Well unless someone can come up with a really good reason not to use it, I guess I have my answer. Keep it coming folks, I need all the information that I can get.
 
Do you have a metal roof? Will it be where in a location where sliding snow could decapitate it?
 
Do you have a metal roof? Will it be where in a location where sliding snow could decapitate it?
I actually despise metal roofs. Both my home and my garage are shingles. The only thing that has metal roofing on it is my ice shack.

This chimney will exit the home in the center right through the peak so snow and ice should be of little problem. Good thought though!
 
Do you have a straight run from the ceiling where it will start through the roof with no jogs around joists? Keeping it straight will keep it economical. You can offset but the parts and pieces to do so will skyrocket the price pretty quickly.
 
By the way there are at least two "types" of class A. And several that are the same and rebranded as the same product. My point is they look very similiar but not all brands have the same flange that locks together. I dont think one brand is better than another, just something to consider. For example, not all caps will fit all pipe. This may be a consideration for you if you want a to be able to buy a new cap locally every couple seasons. With the internet and a little planning, this generally isnt an issue. Lowes actually sells a brand at my local store and is cost competitive for sure. I've never seen it at home depot.
 
One advantage to a masonry chimney, it radiates heat into your home which is good. Prefab is designed to run cool on the outside, hence the outer jacket. I've used both and prefer prefab - Simpson DuraPlus to be exact.
 
It would definitatly be a plus to get something that I could source locally. The run would be in place of the current chimney so it would have a straight shot in the current cavity.
 

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