Creosote problem (not in my chimney)

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G

Genius.

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Every so often I like to peek up my chimney to make sure all is well and I have no creosote in it at all. But tonight I looked through my Baro damper and see that my black pipe running from my stove to my chimney is loaded with it.

Is this normal? I was alway's checking out the chimney thinking that is were my issue would be, but never the black pipe. I figured that the black pipe would be the hottest being on the back side of my furnace.

The wife is working tomorrow so when I get home the furnace should be cool so I will take the pipe apart and clean the elbow's and pieces up.
 
Have you ever run without the baro damper, the extra air could be adding to the creosote problem.
 
I have a wood/coal furnace and burn both. During those "warmer" periods when the daytime temps don't call for coal (which REALLY cranks out the heat!) and we burn wood, I'll see a creosote build up upstream and downstream of the baro damper, but only for a few inches either way. While I may be wrong, it makes sense to me that the flue near the BD will have a creosote build up simply because cooler air from my basement is being drawn into the BD and up the flue to help maintain the .03 inch draft I have my furnace set at. But, as mentioned, it's not much of a build up and as soon as I burn a few bags of coal and heat the flue to 700degF at the probe thermometer just below the BD, whatever creosote that is there dries out rapidly and crumbles off with gentle brushing. At the end of the heating season I'll take the BD off and run a brush up and down the flue to take care of the rest, and have a chimney sweep get the rest of the pipe. When I'm burning wood, I also make sure to keep the firebox temps up so that I'm getting probe thermometer temps of at least 400degF.
 
We get some creosote after the baro also. It's not bad and when I sweep the chimney I clean the flue. Our flue temps run much lower than our old furnace. If the weather has been anything like here, our furnace hasnt had to work until recently. I've pulled under a cup of dust from a couple cords of wood from our 32' chimney so I can't complain.
 
Tuning my PSG Caddy

I finally got my hand's on a Manometer and am going to set my Baro damper, but I can't find my manual for my furnace. (Layne:msp_wink:) how many inch's of WC am I suposed to have? Also, am I suposed to check it before or after the damper?

I thought it was before, with a high fire going if I remember right.

Thanks.
 
I finally got my hand's on a Manometer and am going to set my Baro damper, but I can't find my manual for my furnace. (Layne:msp_wink:) how many inch's of WC am I suposed to have? Also, am I suposed to check it before or after the damper?

I thought it was before, with a high fire going if I remember right.

Thanks.

My furnace manual says to set the BD at 0.03 inches of WC. I think that's pretty well the norm from what I've read on this and coal burning forums. While I'm not an expert by any means, I measure my draft before the BD with firebox and ash pan closed and the furnace motor on and providing air.
 
My furnace manual says to set the BD at 0.03 inches of WC. I think that's pretty well the norm from what I've read on this and coal burning forums. While I'm not an expert by any means, I measure my draft before the BD with firebox and ash pan closed and the furnace motor on and providing air.

No...they want to run there's faster because of the design in the cat ...They ask for .04"-.06".
The test is run between the BDR and the furnace collar on the side of the pipe when the furnace has been running and is up to normal operating temp with it calling for heat.
 

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