CSM chain recommendations

[pwoller]

Search isnt working so well here so I figured I'd see what you guys use for CSM milling. Skip, Full comp? What angles do you use on your cutting teeth? How far do you file down your rakers? Anyother tips.

 

[BobL]

Search isnt working so well here so I figured I'd see what you guys use for CSM milling.

Skip, Full comp?

Full comp, semichisel.

What angles do you use on your cutting teeth?

5-10º top plate filing angles.
I've been using a 13/64" file in a 5/32" file holder but watch to try with a 3/16" holder

How far do you file down your rakers?

I used progressive raker depths. Nominally they're 1/10th of the gullet width.

Anyother tips.

If you are unsure then touchup anyway.

 

[gemniii]

Search isnt working so well here so I figured I'd see what you guys use for CSM milling. Skip, Full comp?
What angles do you use on your cutting teeth?
How far do you file down your rakers? Anyother tips.

Bailey's woodland pro ripping.
10 deg.
about 0.028"

Follow BobL's lead for filing

 

[AaronB]

I have always used Woodland Pro, but going to try some Oregon ripping chain sometime soon.

 

[pwoller]

Thanks for the tips. Do you guys find that you have to sharpen the chain after a couple passes? I have been milling walnut and oak around 24 inch wide slabs and the chain is way slower after 16 feet of cutting.

 

[gemniii]

Thanks for the tips. Do you guys find that you have to sharpen the chain after a couple passes? I have been milling walnut and oak around 24 inch wide slabs and the chain is way slower after 16 feet of cutting.

I think with Woodland Pro ripping chain touching about every 30 sq ft should be expected.

 

[TSRuff]

I use both Woodland and Oregon and haven't found any real noticeable difference between the two except that the Oregon seems to keep oil on the bar only slightly better than the Woodland on longer bars. This really isn't an issue if you are using an auxilliary oiler.

I use full comp at all times, semichisel, and almost always use my 42" bar even if I am milling smaller diameter logs because you get more cutters to dull before you need to touch up.

Bob is spot on with the rest of his recommendations on filing, but since I am not typically milling extremely hard wood I set my rakers a little more aggressive than he does. For oak, maple, walnut, etc. I will go with 10-15% of the gullet width depending on width of the logs I am milling. For something like poplar or pine I have gotten away with as high as 20%, which cuts very quickly but you obviously need to make sure you have a saw up to the challenge. It is impressive to see the huge chips fly...

I find that I usually get 30-40 sq ft of hardwood cutting and 60-70 sq ft of softwood cutting before my cutting slows significantly. I'll touch up a chain 3-4 times in the woods before I just swap out for a fresh chain, then sharpen when I'm back home.

 

[AaronB]

So far I have not touched up my chains in the field, I just try to swap out and sharpen later. I try to do one log, which is usually 7-8ft long, with one chain, then swap to a sharp one for the next log. Yeah I have to push harder on the last few boards but I haven't had any issues and it has seemed to do fine so far.

 

[johnb]

15 degree and 25 degree a dime on the rakers. I perfer the skip tooth format not full comp or the ripping chain. Buy new chain file it to the above spec and you will be pleased. happy milling the Hoosier!

 

[pwoller]

I'm using a skip now but I have a hard time getting smooth cuts. I think I'm going to try full comp and see how it does. I'm sure its the sawer not the chain but we'll see.

 

[gemniii]

You should have plenty of power to pull any good rip chain w/o skip.

 

[johnb]

Remember about 1 horse power per cutter in the cut. I was always told is the basic rule. You do get a more jagged looking surface with skip chain but it shouldn't be splintery to the touch. If it is change your degree angle. Happy milling the Hoosier

 

[Hillbilly3995]

I'm afraid BobL is gonna soil his trousers, but I cut my depth gauges .045"-.065"
below cutter height (roughly 1-1.5 mm)

Full comp chain will cut smoother...Lastly I have one of those old chains with the round cutters....I know I know, but that thing is hands down the fastest cutting chain I have (sharpened at 10 deg) Go figure...

 

[mtngun]

I have used skip full chisel for mini-milling, the cut was quite ragged.

Granberg type chain offers the same advantage as skip -- higher rpms -- but with a smoother cut.

 

[rarefish383]

So far I have not touched up my chains in the field, I just try to swap out and sharpen later. I try to do one log, which is usually 7-8ft long, with one chain, then swap to a sharp one for the next log. Yeah I have to push harder on the last few boards but I haven't had any issues and it has seemed to do fine so far.

I'm with Aaron on this one. I cut 7 6' slabs of spalted Maple Sunday and it was just starting ot slow down. Now this log was really dry and in spots was starting to get soft. I doubt if it would have made it that far in dry Oak. Best of luck, Joe.

 

[pwoller]

I think I'm going to get a couple new full comp chains and make sure that I keep all the teeth and rakers the same size.

I might have to cut all the teeth back on the skip chain to see if I can get it cutting smooth again.

Do you guys think a 2100cd can handle 3 ft wide hardwood or should I look for something bigger?

 

[gemniii]

Do you guys think a 2100cd can handle 3 ft wide hardwood or should I look for something bigger?

Tuned and breathing freely w/ a sharp chain it should do ok on most North American hardwood, the Aussie hardwood, rumored to be slightly softer than granite, might be a problem.

 

[huskyhank]

I think I'm going to get a couple new full comp chains and make sure that I keep all the teeth and rakers the same size.

I might have to cut all the teeth back on the skip chain to see if I can get it cutting smooth again.

Do you guys think a 2100cd can handle 3 ft wide hardwood or should I look for something bigger?

The 2100 will do fine but a bigger saw will be faster in big wood. There are not many choices in modern saws. 3120 Husky or 880 Stihl are the only new saw choices. Other older American saws and Stihls are out there if you look.

I think you should run the 2100 and see how you like it. The Alaskan mill will fit on another saw if you get one later so you're not out anything trying what you have.

 

[pwoller]

The 2100 will do fine but a bigger saw will be faster in big wood. There are not many choices in modern saws. 3120 Husky or 880 Stihl are the only new saw choices. Other older American saws and Stihls are out there if you look.

I think you should run the 2100 and see how you like it. The Alaskan mill will fit on another saw if you get one later so you're not out anything trying what you have.

I really like the 2100 but it vibrates itself apart and I am replacing parts constantly.