Cutting logs in consistent lengths?

[Philbert]

Saw something at at GTG (or similar event - I forget).

Guy took a length of aluminum rod, and bent a 2" 'L' in one end. Secured this short leg to the LEFT side of his front handle, with zip ties or radiator clamps, so that the distance from the end of the rod to the chain was the length he wanted. Works if you cut left to right. Swings out of the way (sort of) if needed. Easy to remove/replace.

Philbert

 

[ASEMASTER]

I use a length of 1/2" lite hanging chain with a sharp nail welded to each end. you can adjust it by adding or subtracting links ,it will fit in your glove or pocket when not in use. this works on the bigger logs as I seam to miss the eyeball method as I go down the length.

 

[rullywowr]

I made a tap n cut based the video I viewed. Very simple construction using pvc. Here's a pic and of course I used orange line chalk.

Def a Husky fan! Rep sent!

 

[Fronty Owner]

I use my bar.

 

[El Quachito]

I like a 16" stick and a lumber crayon in my back pocket. I mark the main stem and large limbs, eyeball the small diameter ones. The stooping over and marking feels like a PITA, but at the end of the day it's nothing.

 

[DSS]

I look at the tree

Then I cut it.

Who cares if every stick is the same? Not like it won't burn if its short. Never mind.

 

[Blazin]

I look at the tree

Then I cut it.

Who cares if every stick is the same? Not like it won't burn if its short. Never mind.

Same here, my stove takes 0-54" wood. If I'm feeling the need to be frisky, I use the felling mark on the side of the saw to the bar tip which is 24" in my case....I can usually stay with .010 of the specified 2' length.

 

[DSS]

Same here, my stove takes 0-54" wood. If I'm feeling the need to be frisky, I use the felling mark on the side of the saw to the bar tip which is 24" in my case....I can usually stay with .010 of the specified 2' length.

10 thou huh?:msp_sneaky:

 

[Blazin]

10 thou huh?:msp_sneaky:

With ease :cool2:

 

[roberte]

Same here, my stove takes 0-54" wood. If I'm feeling the need to be frisky, I use the felling mark on the side of the saw to the bar tip which is 24" in my case....I can usually stay with .010 of the specified 2' length.

Party foul,
BS on a 10 of an inch, no one is that good

 

[Blazin]

Party foul,
BS on a 10 of an inch, no one is that good

You don't know who you're dealin with here, chief

 

[roberte]

You don't know who you're dealin with here, chief

Likewise im sure.
And you couldnt be more right, my bad.
and I can cut to within .10000, seroiusly

 

[bigblackdodge]

Exactly My Point!

I like a 16" stick and a lumber crayon in my back pocket. I mark the main stem and large limbs, eyeball the small diameter ones. The stooping over and marking feels like a PITA, but at the end of the day it's nothing.

Same length wood stacks much easier and is way more stable.

I made a tap n cut based the video I viewed. Very simple construction using pvc. Here's a pic and of course I used orange line chalk. I cut to 16" so that the 'To Line' and 'Chalk' distance is 16". BTW, the instructions are for my main helper, my wife. She's an excellent marker as well as a pretty good stacker. On the chalk end, I used a hacksaw and cut approx. 1/3 of the way into the PVC to create a kerf for the chalk to exit after a tap on the log. On the handle end I have a threaded cap which can be removed so I can add chalk to the marker. Needless to say, it works quite well and is inexpensive to construct.

My consistent estimating of lengths has gone seriously downhill over the years especially if the logs vary in diameter. One more piece to carry but worth it in the end for me.

Yep, I've learned I have more inconsistency as the diameter increases, the lengths do as well. Kind of a proportional thing I guess. I believe I'll also be making up one of these.

I cut several lengths for deferent customers, I just use a stick and some chalk if I want to be precise, but most of the time I just eyeball it. Once you have cut several thousand logs it’s easy to just eyeball it.

I don't sell much anymore, but I do cut wood for myself, my dad and my Father-in-law and their stoves are smaller than mine, so It doesn't make sense for me to just eyeball it. Nothing worse than bring wood inside only to find out that some is a bit too long. Just makes for unnecessary work for me.

 

[Smcgill]

Now your just splitting hairs:msp_wink:!!!

 

[cafo1.618]

I just use my bar for reference, always keep my rounds within 15-18 inches

 

[cafo1.618]

Same here, my stove takes 0-54" wood. If I'm feeling the need to be frisky, I use the felling mark on the side of the saw to the bar tip which is 24" in my case....I can usually stay with .010 of the specified 2' length.

pictures or it didn't happen.
That is a big claim with no proof
Lets see a video?

 

[Blazin]

pictures or it didn't happen.
That is a big claim with no proof
Lets see a video?

I was busting balls with the Cow, it's really more like .1618 instead of .010 :msp_razz:

 

[Whitespider]

Actually there is darn good reason for consistent length... if you're cutting close to the maximum length your firebox will accept.
Rounds cut a couple inches long won't fit, rounds cut a couple inches short leave wasted space when it's damn cold and you need stuff that beast as full as you can before bed.
Besides the stacks look pretty when you post 'em on AS :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[DSS]

I was busting balls with the Cow, it's really more like .1618 instead of .010 :msp_razz:

I got really screwed up one time. Forgot I was using narrow kerf chain.

Every frigging round was like an eighth of an inch too long. What a horrible winter that was. :msp_mad:

 

[Hedgerow]

I got really screwed up one time. Forgot I was using narrow kerf chain.

Every frigging round was like an eighth of an inch too long. What a horrible winter that was. :msp_mad:

I told you, if you would use "THE FORCE" like Blazin and myself You would have felt the difference before engaging that enemy...
:matrix: