cutting one half of my forked red oak

[grease371]

I have an 80 foot tall red oak that is forked about 5 feet from the base. The base is about 48" x 24". One fork is about 24 inches in diameter and is almost straight up (maybe about 3 feet off at the top. The other fork is 15" in diameter and is leaning directly over my house. The tree appears to be healthy and solid.
A tree company has recommended that I cut the fork that is leaning over the house by cutting it completely off near the crotch at an angle so water will not stand on it.
My question: will the tree be OK if we cut off the smaller fork? If so, how should it be cut?

 

[2FatGuys]

Post pictures. What part of NC?

 

[Dadatwins]

You have tree with codominent trunks. Cutting off a large codominent on a mature tree is usually not recomended since it will leave a wound near the base of the tree that will probably not close over. This will eventually cause decay that could weaken the remaining section of the tree. Not such an issue on small trees, since they can usually close the wound better and faster, but it is an issue on larger mature tree as you describe. If there is no signs of splitting or weakness in the connection, why cut it off? If you are worried about weight over the house it is possible to prune the trunk over the house? Pictures would help, but from what you descibe, it probably is not a good idea.

 

[oldirty]

lighten it up and throw a cable in that bad larry.

 

[treeseer]

Posting a picture would really help us here, but a 15" wound will indeed rot, so you may INCREASE the risk to your home if you follow the tree cutter's advice. I agree with old dirty; reducing and supporting sounds like the way to go.

If you are near Raleigh or Greensboro I can help you out expertly, and soon!

Posting a picture here is easy. Show us the fork and the big picture too, and you'll get lots of advice.

 

[grease371]

I'm in Mooersville, NC. North of Charlotte on Lake Norman. Even on the lowest resolution, I can't get a picture of the tree that isn't over the allowable size limit for uploads. If someone can tell me how to do that, I'll try again. Thanks.

 

[Log Splitter]

I'm in Mooersville, NC. North of Charlotte on Lake Norman. Even on the lowest resolution, I can't get a picture of the tree that isn't over the allowable size limit for uploads. If someone can tell me how to do that, I'll try again. Thanks.

Use Microsoft Photo Editor (should already be on your PC), take the Resize option, and resize your pics down to about 50%.

 

[Ekka]

A tree company has recommended that I cut the fork that is leaning over the house by cutting it completely off near the crotch at an angle so water will not stand on it.

HACK ALERT HACK ALERT HACK ALERT HACK ALERT HACK ALERT​

Nice to see in 2008 the progression made in the industry for professional advice.

Like no other trade, may the daft be in business.

 

[treeseer]

I'm in Mooersville, NC. North of Charlotte on Lake Norman.

Lake Norman, yeah, I've worked a little in The Point neighborhood there. I'll be by the end of Feb on my way west; can help you out then. Good to get it pruned before spring. Good luck with the pic posting; it is a very useful talent once you master it.

 

[Ed Roland]

I'm in Mooersville, NC. North of Charlotte on Lake Norman.

The largest residential tree firm in the world has their 350 acre research arboretum located just south of you in the Queen city.
You could call Mr. Dave Powell @ Bartlett Tree Experts (704) 588-3713 bartlett.com for a consult.

I agree with the consensus: The tree can not possibly seal such a large wound during its life span. Even if it did callous over the decay would likely continue.
good luck

 

[grease371]

still trying to post these darn pictures

I don't have Micro photo editor - according to MS they discontinued it. I have Adobe Photo shop but I be darn if I can figure out how to reduce the size down to below 300. Any advice on photo shop? I searched the help site with no success. Have a call into a friend. Will post pictures if I can figure it out but am convinced that I should only prune the fork over the house.

How about "cabling" or "banding" the two forks together. Is that hype too or is that a good idea?

 

[BostonBull]

I don't have Micro photo editor - according to MS they discontinued it. I have Adobe Photo shop but I be darn if I can figure out how to reduce the size down to below 300. Any advice on photo shop? I searched the help site with no success. Have a call into a friend. Will post pictures if I can figure it out but am convinced that I should only prune the fork over the house.

How about "cabling" or "banding" the two forks together. Is that hype too or is that a good idea?

email me the pictures. I ill resize them and post them for you.

PM sent to you with my email addy

 

[BostonBull]

Here are the pictures from Grease.

You should not cut that whole leader out. The tree could use a pruning and lighten up the side going towards the house. I would also definately install a cable.

Tell the guy who gave you the advice that yo'll give him a call if you want him to come kill the tree for you.



Man those were some BIG pics. 8Megs a piece!!!!!

 

[grease371]

picture of my red oak

OK, after screwing with various picture managers all afternoon, here is a picture of my red oak. The fork on the LEFT is the one hanging over the house and the one the tree guy want to cut completely off. I'm leaning (pun intended) toward taking all your advice and pruning this fork near the top. But, is cabling the two forks together necessary?

 

[mastermind24]

be safe, prune for weight reduction and cable, the concept is to keep them from spreading apart, and if it were to split, i dont think the cable would support it but it might slow it down a little. in northern climates imagine the overhanging lead covered with ice, with that additional weight wouldnt it be nice it it were secured closer to the top to the other lead?

 

[Ekka]

Now that you have your camera and stuff figured out lets get a close view of that inclusion from all angles. I want to see a shot at 90 degrees, so it looks like 1 trunk, I'm looking for elephant ears.

Another shot close up of the join, from front and back, I'm looking for cracks and if there's any sap etc.

The fact that it's there and standing means it's stood up to everything so far.

So a little pruning and cabling is going to help for years and give lots of piece of mind.

Also, the pruning and reduction has to be smart, either a bucket truck or real good climber to work on the tips and small stuff ... trying to keep cuts under say 3" dia. You can remove a lot of sail and height with small cuts ... you'll be surprised.

 

[treeseer]

Now that you have your camera and stuff figured out ...
Another shot close up of the join, from front and back, I'm looking for cracks and if there's any sap etc.

The fact that it's there and standing means it's stood up to everything so far.

So a little pruning and cabling is going to help for years and give lots of piece of mind.

Also, the pruning and reduction has to be smart, either a bucket truck or real good climber ... You can remove a lot of sail and height with small cuts ... you'll be surprised.

"and if it were to split, i dont think the cable would support it but it might slow it down a little."

3/8" EHS cable holds up to 7 tons. I think it can support this tree.

O and yes you can call bartlett or heartwood or arborguard or any other big company. Or you can call me and my minimal overhead, and get a better job done cheaper.

 

[lxt]

This is similar to an ash tree that I bid, almost same scenario, the Ash was just bigger & the inclusion little higher up!!

Looks like a fairly young tree, some through bracing at the base will strengthen it along with a support cable aloft!! also what Ekka said some pruning & reduction will help greatly!!

LXT...........

 

[BostonBull]

i dont think the cable would support it but it might slow it down a little. in northern climates imagine the overhanging lead covered with ice, with that additional weight wouldnt it be nice it it were secured closer to the top to the other lead?

What? EHS 3/8" is rated for 15K! if thats not enough put in 1/2".


You say closer to the top, where would YOU put the cable in? Middle, towrds the lower half?

 

[Ed Roland]

O and yes you can call bartlett or heartwood or arborguard or any other big company. Or you can call me and my minimal overhead, and get a better job done cheaper.

Disqualifying a company because they are large is nonsense. Three gentlemen each having earned a Ph.D in horticulture, entemology and soil science, respectively, run the research facility. A facility Mr. Treeseer frequents to further his own training and knowledge base.

Grease, make sure whomever you call is, at least, ISA certified. Expect to pay $50-$65 an hour for each arborist on site to mitigate this issue plus the cost of the hardware, if any.