Cutting wedges

[c5rulz]

I do not think I am going to get into plunge cutting logs to buck them up just so I do not have to use a wedge.
I well leave that to the pro's.

Me too. I think attempting to do plunge cuts increases the chances of kick back. I could be wrong but that was my thought. Eventually it's a technique that is valuable and takes some time to master safely and effectively. I probly would not attempt without a modern saw with a chain brake.

You guys have probably never used a hard nosed bar. The hard nosed bar makes plunge cutting dramatically easier than a roller nose. It is pretty effortless to start the plunge and once the bar is 2-3" in it cannot kick back. The hard nosed bar also tolerates dirt a whole lot better. With 404 chain I can cut and fill the truck without having to sharpen. With 3/8ths chisel it would take 3 saws to get the job done. I always have 4 saws in the truck and don't sharpen in the field, as it takes too much time when one can just grab another saw. My truck is a work truck and the saws live in the truck all Winter.

I just got a new hardnosed bar for the ported 288XP yesterday and installed it. Had a very hard time finding one with the supply line shortages. Don't believe, search for a Husky large mount hard nosed bar.

I am real close to being done on this log landing. These were taken early season and are almost all gone. The last pic is a thing I made to attach chain to in order to pull logs off the pile.

 

[Brufab]

You are correct sir. I have not used a hard nose bar on any of my saws for this technique. I have done it a couple times and some a couple bore cuts on big popples. I guess I will need to get a hard nosed bar in the future and thanks for the tip!

 

[Hermio]

100%! Do this daily. Just saves a extra step and easier IMO

I use this technique rarely. If the log can be rolled, I roll it to get the clean side up and then buck from top to bottom. If it can be lifted with a log lifter, I use that to keep the saw out of the mud below. If neither is possible, I will use the plunge cut method.

 

[5crows]

You mean plastic felling wedges or metal splitting wedges?

View attachment 945271

The plastic would be best for that job. And you're right - it is a handy little trick.

Yes the plastic ones, not the iron splitting wedge. I guess they are called felling wedges, maybe I used the wrong term. I'll also stick a smaller piece under the tree if it's a little off the ground, trying to keeping the next blocks cut off, from top to bottom, in the air to put expansion force on the top of the tree.
I did nick one of the plastic wedges with the chain once, while removing the bar, and it did take off like a throwing knife, luckily away from me.

I've read about plunge cuts, but haven't tried them.

 

[5crows]

I use this technique rarely. If the log can be rolled, I roll it to get the clean side up and then buck from top to bottom. If it can be lifted with a log lifter, I use that to keep the saw out of the mud below. If neither is possible, I will use the plunge cut method.

I sometimes make intermediate cuts on about 4 pieces to make that piece easier to roll and do what you do, but haven't tried the plunge cut method for bucking or even for felling. I've read about it. I guess I should try it.

 

[SS396driver]

Been doing it for a long time big oak that town took down across the street from my driveway .

 

[Brufab]

Textbook wedge action!!!

 

[tla100]

I usually jam a stick that is laying on ground, in to the cut on top. Once have whole log cut mostly thru. Roll over on finish them.

 

[chipper1]

It's not about one size fits all, but rather about having various tools/ technics available. When conditions change what you've done in the past may not work as well.

This log was skidded and the mud was on the top, whatever you do avoid pulling dirt/mud thru the cut, as was said, it saves a ton of time that would otherwise be wasted sharpening.

 

[Jere39]

I use them all the time. Also like to lay the big ones across other rounds to keep them off the ground



And, I do occasionally have one drop on the spinning chain.



I have to re-face them from time to time.

 

[Brufab]

Haha those look like my wedges I've been known to throw some orange chips

 

[c5rulz]

It's not about one size fits all, but rather about having various tools/ technics available. When conditions change what you've done in the past may not work as well.

This log was skidded and the mud was on the top, whatever you do avoid pulling dirt/mud thru the cut, as was said, it saves a ton of time that would otherwise be wasted sharpening.

Chipper 1, you are real close to doing this in a manner that I feel is correct. I learned this watching the guys who buck logs all day long on log landings and they have two rules:
1. It must be cut off, so as to not pull any fiber when the cut to length logs are picked up.
2. Minimize the amount of time between sharpening.

@chipper1 In your 2nd video you start doing a perfect job, but at the 7 second mark, you need to now cut straight down. DO NOT STICK THE TIP THROUGH THE LOG. Cut all the way out the bottom, then PUSH THE BAR the rest of the way through the log. Now while cutting up two things are going to happen. All the dirt is thrown AWAY from the powerhead, AND the log cannot pinch the bar as it is connected still at the top. Cut up like you mean it and through the top quickly and the bar won't pinch.

Just my two cents from watching the boys on the landings.

 

[chipper1]

Chipper 1, you are real close to doing this in a manner that I feel is correct. I learned this watching the guys who buck logs all day long on log landings and they have two rules:
1. It must be cut off, so as to not pull any fiber when the cut to length logs are picked up.
2. Minimize the amount of time between sharpening.

@chipper1 In your 2nd video you start doing a perfect job, but at the 7 second mark, you need to now cut straight down. DO NOT STICK THE TIP THROUGH THE LOG. Cut all the way out the bottom, then PUSH THE BAR the rest of the way through the log. Now while cutting up two things are going to happen. All the dirt is thrown AWAY from the powerhead, AND the log cannot pinch the bar as it is connected still at the top. Cut up like you mean it and through the top quickly and the bar won't pinch.

Just my two cents from watching the boys on the landings.

I totally understood what you where talking about in you post earlier, I prefer to bore through when there is not dirt on the back side, cutting with the tip buried is slower than cutting with bar thru the back side. If there is mud on the back side I bore thru at an angle and then cut thru blowing the bark/mud off the back side and I leave a little holding wood on the bottom.
1 I don't care about fiber pull when bucking.
2 I MAXIMIZE the time between sharpening.
I learned from experience what works for what I do, not saying it's the only way, but another method to know, and just like hooked on phonics, it works for me .