Darn it! Newbie mistake... + Chain filing questions

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Nandy

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2009
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Location
Dallas, NC
So I'm going at it splitting that red oak, having fun and enjoy the beautiful day. I started to unload the Blazer and had a few white oak logs to cut. Once was "large enough" that I decided to use my timber jack (excuse to just use the timber jack) to raise it off the ground and keep my chain off the dirt... The log would only make 3 rounds so the timber jack was a bit close to the cut... You guess it, while I was cutting the timber jack let go (it rained and the mud gave it due to weight) and touch the saw. It looked like a fraction of the second but all of the teeth to the right of it got damaged. They did not brake as they barely shaved the steel but it was enough to mess the edge. I did a few cuts afterwards and I got a mix of nice shavings and dust...
I guess I will be using that file kit I bought a bit earlier than I thought... I think this damage can be fixed by filing it. Of course, I will have to use the file on the right more than in the left to achieve a good edge...

I have a few questions:
Should I file the left side as many times as I will have to file the right in order to keep the chain "leveled"? Not sure if it is necessary.
What do you use as a cue to know you need to file your chain? Do you do it when you start to see dust or before?
How many pass do you guys take? the guy in the husqvarna video just took a couple of passes at each teeth. Are those files that good?
Most important, how do you keep track to make sure you filed all of the chain? I would loose track of the 72 links...

I have a second chain, brand new but I dont want to use it yet. Heck, this chain is just a couple month old and have seen only 2 trees so far...

Thanks!
 
To mark the chain use a dot of whiteout on one of the cutters. After a while you wont have to because you can see where you filed. If this is not a race saw dont worry to much about having a tooth or two a little short (just look at some of the women you see at Walmart) just file them sharp and things should even out over the life of the chain. Sharpen before you are making dust. Instead of a log jack you can always cut most of the way through then flip over and finish.
 
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Nandy, did you say darn it when you hit the jack? If so you are a better person than me....I think you should hit all the teeth the same amount of strokes, both sides. If the cutters are shorter on one side your cut will curve, but then I'm not the best at filing....Lanny
 
ok, thanks for the advice. It might be monday before I get to file the chain but if it gets too bad for deer hunting then I might get at it tomorrow or Saturday.


Nandy, did you say darn it when you hit the jack? If so you are a better person than me....

I have a sick kid at home and he showed his face thru the door when I started cussing. Good thing is when I am really pissed off I cus in Spanish but the neighbors still showed their faces as well. Im pretty sure there were just checking if I cut myself.
I was really mad at myself. I should have seen it coming but was too eager to do the cuts. That is how people get hurts.
Anyway, lesson learned!!!!

:newbie:
I like that smillie!
 
ok, thanks for the advice. It might be monday before I get to file the chain but if it gets too bad for deer hunting then I might get at it tomorrow or Saturday.




I have a sick kid at home and he showed his face thru the door when I started cussing. Good thing is when I am really pissed off I cus in Spanish but the neighbors still showed their faces as well. Im pretty sure there were just checking if I cut myself.
I was really mad at myself. I should have seen it coming but was too eager to do the cuts. That is how people get hurts.
Anyway, lesson learned!!!!

:newbie:
I like that smillie!

Way to go.. Only teach the poor child Spanish cuss words.. LOL
 
To mark the chain use a dot of whiteout on one of the cutters. After a while you wont have to because you can see where you filed. If this is not a race saw dont worry to much about having a tooth or two a little short (just look at some of the women you see at Walmart) just file them sharp and things should even out over the life of the chain. Sharpen before you are making dust. Instead of a log jack you can always cut most of the way through then flip over and finish.

That's funny :clap:
 
definitely do the same on both sides. same number of strokes for all the teeth on the whole chain. The number ends up being the number of strokes it takes to get the worst tooth fixed, then you apply it to all of the teeth.
goodluck!
 
Sharpen often. If you wait until you see dust you have waited way too long. How to tell? If the saw won't 'self feed', i.e., you have to put pressure on it to make it cut, the chain needs sharpening. Once your chain is sharp you can keep it that way with only 3-4 strokes. Let it get too dull and you are in for a lot of strokes to get it back.

All teeth do not have to be the same length, but for sure, both sides have to be approximately even. Filing the right side sharp with 5 or 6 strokes and the left on only 2-3 will result in a crooked cut.

Don't get wrapped around the axle trying to keep all teeth the same lenght. Eyeball close is good enough unless you are into competition cutting.

If you are filing with the saw in a vise, try mounting it upside down. I can file both sides 'right handed' that way. If you file one side right handed and the other left handed they will not be equal.

Harry K
 
File often. I'll give it a couple of swipes every time I fuel.
Make sure your file is sharp. I've seen many people trying to sharpen a saw with a file that was so dull they might as well been using a spike.
Dan.
 
I like to file after every one or two tanks of gas, just a few quick strokes, then use the grinder to get the angle back after three or four tanks of gas. I think you have a few options, file the chain, if only a couple of cutters are short, then just hit them lightly, and file the rest of the chain the same on both sides, take it in to get sharpened, lastly go to bailey's and buy three or four chains for 12.50 each plus shipping
 
Sharpen often. If you wait until you see dust you have waited way too long. How to tell? If the saw won't 'self feed', i.e., you have to put pressure on it to make it cut, the chain needs sharpening. Once your chain is sharp you can keep it that way with only 3-4 strokes. Let it get too dull and you are in for a lot of strokes to get it back.

All teeth do not have to be the same length, but for sure, both sides have to be approximately even. Filing the right side sharp with 5 or 6 strokes and the left on only 2-3 will result in a crooked cut.

Don't get wrapped around the axle trying to keep all teeth the same lenght. Eyeball close is good enough unless you are into competition cutting.

If you are filing with the saw in a vise, try mounting it upside down. I can file both sides 'right handed' that way. If you file one side right handed and the other left handed they will not be equal.

Harry K



If you want good sharp chains - follow the advice in the above post.
 
Took me 15 strokes to get that chisel point back in what looked to me to be the worst teeth so all teeth got the same treatment. Good thing is that the chain feels again cutting like a brand new chain went thru a 18 inch white oak twisted round like butter. I think I got a hold of sharpening so I feel I learned a great lesson on safety, expect the unexpected and filing a chain.
Thanks everyone!
 
As for knowing where you started filing on the chain...

There is a spot on the chain where there are two cutters on the same side.
I always start there.

Other members-correct me if this is not true on all bar length/chain pitch saws.
 
Touch ups

I chainsaw carve for a hobby,and have run across my share of "hardware" in peoples "yard" trees.When I am going to touch up a chain with a file,I take a Sharpie (brand name for a magic marker), and hit the inside/underside of the teeth. It serves two purposes for me: 1.) I can always tell if I hit every tooth on the chain,and, 2.) more importantly to me, I can see how I'm engaging each tooth with the file. In other words,am I holding the file at the correct angle?Am I generating the cutting edge uniformly? These Sharpies really come in handy for sharpening, whether it is on a chain,or sharpening an edge on my different woodcarving chisels, hand plane blades, or what have you, because you can see exactly where you are taking off stock.-ken
 
Yes on the sharpie trick. I mark the top of the three teeth (2 left, 1 right or vice versa) I start on with a black marker. Makes it very easy to see when I come around to the start. Old eyes are not good at seeing detail ;).

Harry K
 
Good Idea!

Yes on the sharpie trick. I mark the top of the three teeth (2 left, 1 right or vice versa) I start on with a black marker. Makes it very easy to see when I come around to the start. Old eyes are not good at seeing detail ;).

Harry K

I use a red crayon and just mark the space between two links. Actually shave a bit of the crayon off on the edge of the links. Easy to see.

Al :cheers:
 
Some great advice for you from these guys. I do as many sharpen often every tank of gas. Always use same amount of strokes on each tooth. I don't mark where I start but find it pretty easy to see what tooth is sharpened.
 
Well it sounds like you learned your lesson on the timberjack. Here is one trick I have found to be helpful. When you no you are close to the timberjack make your cut 1/2 to 3/4 of the way thru and stop , put the log on the ground with the cut side down and then finish your cut. That way you have no risk of wrecking your chain ,timberjack, or worse yet having kickback occur. Sharpening your chain is a good way of checking other stuff on the saw. Like seeing if your bar is wearing unevenly, checking for burrs on the bar , checking that your groove in your bar hasn't become to tight. etc...

Hope this helps

Beefie
 
I did learn my lesson. I did a good check in the above mention and cleaned the chainsaw all over.
 

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