budroe69moni
ArboristSite Operative
just curious guys.......
what's your prefered method for getting down??????
budroe
what's your prefered method for getting down??????
budroe
decenders.....
- Thread starter budroe69moni
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treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
About the only situation where I (not anyone else, just I) might be able to use a descender is coming down off a spar that is ready to be flopped. But that would only be if I were coming down on the tag line, and we ALL know that isn't an acceptable practice.
I can descend using my hitch as fast as I like, don't see where a descender would help me. I like how this 8mm T-900 handles and it seems to hold up to the heat (friction) well.
I can descend using my hitch as fast as I like, don't see where a descender would help me. I like how this 8mm T-900 handles and it seems to hold up to the heat (friction) well.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
To use a mechanical decender you need to switch over from your climbing hitch.
On very long decents I will throw a munter in over the frition hitch to save it a little. Kinda hard on the rope though.
Decending from a tall spar we plan on pulling over, I'll munter into the pull rope (usualy 9/16 DB) and come down off that. The only real advantage to this is the same as SRT, you are only coming down 1/2 the rope as a traditional descent.
I have also had people belay me off The Winch for a belayed speed descent
On very long decents I will throw a munter in over the frition hitch to save it a little. Kinda hard on the rope though.
Decending from a tall spar we plan on pulling over, I'll munter into the pull rope (usualy 9/16 DB) and come down off that. The only real advantage to this is the same as SRT, you are only coming down 1/2 the rope as a traditional descent.
I have also had people belay me off The Winch for a belayed speed descent
I said decend on my hitch but in all fairness I don't do long decents because I am usually in a tree to work, not repel. When pruning I go from top to bottom which doesn't leave a long decent and when removing, the same - top to bottom. No pine to top out and drop here. .02
Not doing any hazard DW and not entering very many trees per day.
Not doing any hazard DW and not entering very many trees per day.
Last edited:
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Alot of the winter work I do is oak DW, you may be climbing a tall tree to do just 3 cuts of major hazard DW and a few aesthetic cuts. then a 50-60 foot descent.
Frans
ArboristSite Operative
check out the Anthron Double Stop
Jerry B. advised me on this one still checking it out but like it so far...
Frans
Jerry B. advised me on this one still checking it out but like it so far...
Frans
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
When I work the crown of a tree I generally just work top to bottom and come out using my Lock Jack. If I work the tree using SRT I'll use my Kong Speleo which is similar to a Petzl Stop. If I do any BIG tree SRT I'll grab my Anthron Double. The Anthron is nice because it has the panic lock and doesn't creep as much as the bobbin type tools like the Stop/speleo. The catch is that the Anthron is a little more difficult to load the rope around the cams. I really think that the Kong Indy is the best choice on the market right now.
If I need to work while hanging on a descender I always take the tail of the rope, flip a half hitch and slip it over the handle. This locks off the handle as a back up. You can also add a Mule knot of some kind.
Tom
PS
Dan,
Does the Indy creep at all when you hang from it?
If I need to work while hanging on a descender I always take the tail of the rope, flip a half hitch and slip it over the handle. This locks off the handle as a back up. You can also add a Mule knot of some kind.
Tom
PS
Dan,
Does the Indy creep at all when you hang from it?
treeman82
Addicted to ArboristSite
answered my own question.
NickfromWI
Addicted to ArboristSite
Something's missing...
The poll question should've included the Munter. That's what I use. For long decents, I sometimes munter :angel: down a single line tied with a bowline on a bight at the top. I will have my throwline tied to the bowline loop, so i can retrieve the rope on the way back down.
love
nick
The poll question should've included the Munter. That's what I use. For long decents, I sometimes munter :angel: down a single line tied with a bowline on a bight at the top. I will have my throwline tied to the bowline loop, so i can retrieve the rope on the way back down.
love
nick
budroe69moni
ArboristSite Operative
petzel stop
i've been having alot of fun w/ my petzel stop!
i've been climbing my live oak out back and coming
down on the stop!! what a rush!!! man i love this!!!
mostly ive been coming down on my distel hitch while
doing tree work. i don't think that the stop is very
practical while working but it sure is fun!!!
budroe
i've been having alot of fun w/ my petzel stop!
i've been climbing my live oak out back and coming
down on the stop!! what a rush!!! man i love this!!!
mostly ive been coming down on my distel hitch while
doing tree work. i don't think that the stop is very
practical while working but it sure is fun!!!
budroe
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I've heard that the Peetzl Piranah is very good for traditional descents where ropes hockel a lot. Might add that to my kitty at TCI. This NE rope i got wads up more then any I've had.
treeguy347
ArboristSite Operative
Petzl GRI-GRI, which is actually a belay device works nice for coming down, quick to rig, and has an autolocking cam.
treeguy347
ArboristSite Operative
I should have mentioned in the last post that Petzl recommends keeping your brake hand on the rope at all times. I have never had one slip once locked, but I still keep a friction hitch or ascender as a backup, just in case.
ramanujan
ArboristSite Operative
Only times that I descend on anything other than my hitch are:
With a munter on the rigging line after tying the line the the top of a tree or spar that I am going to pull over.
When I'm left with a long (40'+) descent after working in a tall tree, and then I put on a figure-8 in place of my french prussik.
With a munter on the rigging line after tying the line the the top of a tree or spar that I am going to pull over.
When I'm left with a long (40'+) descent after working in a tall tree, and then I put on a figure-8 in place of my french prussik.
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
I bought a figure 8 with the intention of using it for long descents, but it certainly seems easier to just descend on my hitch as I always have. I can get my hitch pretty hot if I burn a long descent, but the 8mm T-900 I'm using seems to be holding up extremely well. I can't remember ever having a problem when I was using an open prussik (Tautline with bottom wraps reversed) using a single rope instead of a split tail.
This(figure 8) is one toy that seems destined to stay in the bottom of the gear bag. I can be on the ground using my hitch faster than switching out for a descender. And I'm not lugging around excess gear for the hour I'm working the tree, either. Suggesting I ask my groundman to send up a descender so I don't have to descend on my hitch would lead to uncontrollable laughter by the crew.
(Oh, those Tenex prussik slings sold by Sherrill are worthless for a split-tail hitch. I burned one in less than a week. The T-900 is holding up better than the Ultra Tech, handles better too.)
This(figure 8) is one toy that seems destined to stay in the bottom of the gear bag. I can be on the ground using my hitch faster than switching out for a descender. And I'm not lugging around excess gear for the hour I'm working the tree, either. Suggesting I ask my groundman to send up a descender so I don't have to descend on my hitch would lead to uncontrollable laughter by the crew.
(Oh, those Tenex prussik slings sold by Sherrill are worthless for a split-tail hitch. I burned one in less than a week. The T-900 is holding up better than the Ultra Tech, handles better too.)
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
That's why I quit using Tenex for my hitch too. I like the 5/16 Stable Braid I been using for the past 2 weeks or so. It costs around .33/ft + shipping, so I'll just by a real long hank and replace it as the sheath wears. Even at .60/ft (what a 20 ft hank cost after shipping) only be around $2 per hitch. that should be easy to replace every several weeks.
