First time I've been inside a Stihl.
Squish was .052". Gasket is .018". That should get me in the mid to upper .030"s after I use Moto Seal.
Squish was .052". Gasket is .018". That should get me in the mid to upper .030"s after I use Moto Seal.
Never seen a Stihl with that much squish? Oem cylinder or aftermarket?First time I've been inside a Stihl.
Squish was .052". Gasket is .018". That should get me in the mid to upper .030"s after I use Moto Seal.
OEM. I was a little surprised also. I checked it 3 times.Never seen a Stihl with that much squish? Oem cylinder or aftermarket?
I used some red stuff I got from Fastenal, did not do anything to cylinder or base, starts and runs like a champ. 2003 036 ProAnd you did use a good gasket sealer (Moto Seal?) when you assembled, correct? And it starts and runs OK, correct? If so, that's a great job. How dd you get that cylinder's base dead flat with the saw's case?
Yes Moto Seal. I used double sided tape on a flat stone surface to hold the 220 grit. I was hold the jug and sand bolt he corner to bolt hole corner for 4 passes the rotate 90°, the for more passes. In 4 spot all measurements were within .010" to the squish band just like when I started.And you did use a good gasket sealer (Moto Seal?) when you assembled, correct? And it starts and runs OK, correct? If so, that's a great job. How dd you get that cylinder's base dead flat with the saw's case?
Moto Seal is all I use. It has never failed me.I used some red stuff I got from Fastenal, did not do anything to cylinder or base, starts and runs like a champ. 2003 036 Pro
I believe that's just a blind hole and goes nowhere. I'd just asume it wasn't there.Yes Moto Seal. I used double sided tape on a flat stone surface to hold the 220 grit. I was hold the jug and sand bolt he corner to bolt hole corner for 4 passes the rotate 90°, the for more passes. In 4 spot all measurements were within .010" to the squish band just like when I started.
Do I need to do anything about that hole other than not put Moto Seal on. The inside of it?
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Yes. That's what I have come to believe also.I believe that's just a blind hole and goes nowhere. I'd just assume it wasn't there.
Your Stihl dealer should have them. Part number is 9463 650 1200 --> snap ring 12 x 1.Yes. That's what I have come to believe also.
Now I'm at a stand still on the saw. I dropped the wrisk pin retainer for the third time. This time it went flying across the room somewhere.
I'm not looking for it anymore. I'm going to town and see if I can find the type that I can install with retaining ring pliers.
Stihl had a extra thick gasket for lower compression for that saw, that’s probably why it was so thickOEM. I was a little surprised also. I checked it 3 times.
Yes, the .8 mm thick gasket was an option to the .3 mm. Some wanted the thicker gasket so that the decomp valve was not needed. Back then the decomp valve was a rather new invention.Stihl had a extra thick gasket for lower compression for that saw, that’s probably why it was so thick
Maybe so. Thanks.Stihl had a extra thick gasket for lower compression for that saw, that’s probably why it was so thick
Thanks. Interesting. It will be a chore to pull it now.Yes, the .8 mm thick gasket was an option to the .3 mm. Some wanted the thicker gasket so that the decomp valve was not needed. Back then the decomp valve was a rather new invention.
I only had one neighbor that I would load something to with a engine. He would have it back (In great condition) the same day most of the time. He is in a better place now.One word of caution based on what happened to my 046 that I bought as a non-runner. It ran so well after I rebuilt it that I made the mistake of loaning it out the following year. The guy who borrowed it never gave it back to me. Dag Gum it!
I thought so because I remember some guys couldn’t pull them overYes, the .8 mm thick gasket was an option to the .3 mm. Some wanted the thicker gasket so that the decomp valve was not needed. Back then the decomp valve was a rather new invention.
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