Nope. As far as I know the only thing you need to watch out for is that the amount of depth is the same. Stihl gauges are generally .025" or .65mm (did I say that right?). So make sure the Oregon is the same amount of "drop" and you should be fine.
You can get various depth gauges from Stihl but the .025 is the standard. They also have .026, .030, .031 and a few others listed but difficult to actually obtain, which I believe are for harvester chain. I have several of them to check against my progressive filing, done with an angle finder.
Oregon also made an adjustable
depth gauge.
As long as the actual depth is the correct amount, it matters not how you gauge it. Thirty thousandths is thirty thousandths. The only problem is those "rakers" that won't fit through the slot in the filing gauge, such as with the Oregon flop-eared raker or the old Tri-link chain.
Thanks for the help,always having my chains sharpened by a shop but they started to screw them up by taking to much off, so i am looking at buying a used usg grinder to do my own, so i might be asking some more questions on the grinder but this site has a lot of good threads already.
Never had a Stihl depth gauge, but I find the Oregon one a bit frustrating. Besides I like my chains a little more aggressive. At least .028" to .030".
IMHO, by far the easiest way to set depth-gauge height is with a Granberg File-N-Joint. Just swap in a flat file for the round file. Very precise tool.
The standard Stihl one is as useless as the Oregon one for setting rakers, but I still keep one around, as they are fine for cleaning between bar rails, cleaning oil holes in the bars, and measuring rail wear (or actually depth).
What's she charge for chain sharpening? Room & Board, and Health Insurance?
The Husky roller file is great once you get it figured out. Simple, fast, accurate, inexpensive.
Sharpening the teeth.
Filing the rakers.
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