Diff between inboard and outboard clutch?

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Adirondack

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I think I understand what an inboard clutch is if the 7900 has an inboard clutch. The clutch is inboard and the drum sits on the outside. An outboard clutch is a bit more confusing. Could someone explain and show picks? Thanks
 
I think I understand what an inboard clutch is if the 7900 has an inboard clutch. The clutch is inboard and the drum sits on the outside. An outboard clutch is a bit more confusing. Could someone explain and show picks? Thanks


You did start another thread,LOL.

Ok, its very simple. Take your 7900. It has a inboard clutch set up. If you were to remove the sprocket and the clutch assembly, turn the sprocket around, slipped it back over the crankshaft, and then screwed the clutch assembly back on into the sprocket drum you would now have a outboard clutch setup.

Now don't try that on your saw for it will not work. Some saws are designed for an outboard clutch setup, some aren't, the 7900 being one thats not..
 
I think I got it. I have a wildthing and that must be an outboard clutch. I see no advantage to the outboard clutch system. Is that correct?
 
Because the bar is brought closer into the center of the saw, saws with outboard clutches (especially small ones) generally handle a little bit better than those with inboard clutches. Many think that this is at least a contributing factor to the 346xp's handling, and perhaps what gives it an edge (at least in this category) over the dolmar 5100 (inboard).

It allows for a slimmer saw body in general. Some who have the outboard on larger saws prefer it, and find it easier to put chains/bars on and off.

It would seem as though pro fallers saws in the 70-90cc categories all have inboard clutches, including huskies.

The clutch is also kept further away from the additional heat of the saw's P&C and other components.
 
Because the bar is brought closer into the center of the saw, saws with outboard clutches (especially small ones) generally handle a little bit better than those with inboard clutches. Many think that this is at least a contributing factor to the 346xp's handling, and perhaps what gives it an edge (at least in this category) over the dolmar 5100 (inboard).

It allows for a slimmer saw body in general. Some who have the outboard on larger saws prefer it, and find it easier to put chains/bars on and off.

It would seem as though pro fallers saws in the 70-90cc categories all have inboard clutches, including huskies.

The clutch is also kept further away from the additional heat of the saw's P&C and other components.

Great description. :cheers: I understand now. I have been considering at some point getting a smaller limbing saw. I really like the ease of the rim sprockets and I guess they only come on inboard clutch systems.
 
Nope, my 61, 266, 288, and 141 are all outboard clutch with rim and drum. I converted the 141 from a spur.

Personal preference, I guess, but I love the 372's inboard clutch. It moves the chain tensioner to the side and I can change between the 7 pin and the 8 pin in about 3 minutes or less.
 
Some outboard clutches come with the rim sprockets. Poulan pro 330 has a rim sprocket. Poulan 3300 has the star looking drum.

If you look at Ebay you will often see pictures of outboard cluthes. I like outboard cluthes on used saws. Its easier to see the conditionof the clutch.
 
less words--just in case someone didn't get the previous explanation.

inboard/outboard refer to clutch position wrt the chain.

inboard = clutch between chain and engine.

outboard = chain between clutch and engine. or clutch is outboard the chain.

somebuddy stop me before i break nautical!

--or--

outboard clutch--you can see the clutch guts with bar cover removed.

inboard clutch--and you can't.

:greenchainsaw:
 
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Outboard clutches exist to piss you off when you change your chain, and even more when you want to change your rim. Hmmm, pop an e-clip or pull the plug, break out the rope, and the clutch wrench, then reverse.

Some very good saws have to bear that scarlet letter. Crap, I'm at 50% "innies" and 50% "outies". But I'm really liking that half converted 261.
 
Outboard clutches can have rim sprockets just like inboard clutches.

Since I used Dolmar 112's and 120's for years I had never seen an inboard clutch until I got a 5100.

So it was kinda of like what's this for? I am comfortable with either, but I like the outboard better, probably because it is more of a familiar sight to me.
 
Nope, my 61, 266, 288, and 141 are all outboard clutch with rim and drum. I converted the 141 from a spur.

Personal preference, I guess, but I love the 372's inboard clutch. It moves the chain tensioner to the side and I can change between the 7 pin and the 8 pin in about 3 minutes or less.

Actually, it should only take you 1:45. Just ask Thall!
 
Well, if I used Brill Cream...

That dayumm Brill Cream messed up my times, my hands were slippery. If I had only use hair spray out the can I coulda shaved off several seconds, maybe got it down to 1 minute 43 seconds,LOLOLOL
 
Now I could be wrong but I think the reasoning behind the outboard clutch is to keep the crank seal away from the heat of the clutch so it lasts longer. I have both here and they both serve their purpose, to connect the crank to the chain. The plus to an outboard clutch is you can inspect the clutch easier and it doesn't seem to clog up with junk as easy but a pain to change the sprocket/remove drum. The inboard one seems to clog up with junk and cannot be easily inspected but the drum/sprocket changes easier. I also find an oil slick on the inside of mine. Another thing is where the company wants to put the chain brake. Its easy to add a cover to "retrofit" an older saw with outboard clutch but an inboard one isn't feasible. Those are the differences in my opinion.
 
With an inboard clutch you can also do this mod to a milling saw and still retain the chain brake;
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