DIY vacuum testing plates

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For making blocker plates I use 1/4 inch aluminum plate of which I have plenty of, one can tighten the screws down on it without worry about bending it and use rubber occluders made from the rubber roof typegaskets used around pipes that protrude through the roofline, it`s already flat and of a thickness that does nor roll up upon its self, cuts to shape easily with just large frame scissors or my metal snips.If one needs or wants to include a port to pull vac or pressure through then it is easy to drill the 1/4 aluminum plate and thread in a brass hose barb.
 
For making blocker plates I use 1/4 inch aluminum plate of which I have plenty of, one can tighten the screws down on it without worry about bending it and use rubber occluders made from the rubber roof typegaskets used around pipes that protrude through the roofline, it`s already flat and of a thickness that does nor roll up upon its self, cuts to shape easily with just large frame scissors or my metal snips.If one needs or wants to include a port to pull vac or pressure through then it is easy to drill the 1/4 aluminum plate and thread in a brass hose barb.
I useally have some off cuts of aluminum plate laying around. Have way more steel though about 2 tons of it.
 
Two pieces of silver duct tape stuck to each other and poke holes in wear muffler or carb bolts go through And reattach muffler or carb.
 
Bare bones solution since was just testing one (until the next time): spark plug adapter from Amazon, two layers of painters tape over exhaust port, slobbered up thumb on intake boot.
 
I test/pressure through the spark plug port and cover the exhaust and intake/impulse with rubber gasket material. Just remember to turn the crank while testing to make sure you get your pressure/vac into the crank case.
 
I thought about crank position while testing mine (my first and only vacuum test). Right or wrong, I decided the ring gap should be more than adequate to draw on the crankcase. What do you think?
 
You probably right. But if you’re testing through the spark port, probably worth putting the piston at BDC or at least opening the transfers just to be sure. Should be able to get a visual before you attach your adapter or whatever to the port.
 
Best to rotate crank from bdc to tdc while testing and trying to move crank ends up and down back and forth at same time for seals that are just barley holding
vac is recommend to test before pressure as pressure can push seals out if they are borderline and give a false reading.
 

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